Mmiller2001

Sure, pm me.

Tulu

KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4, CaSO4. MgSO4 and a carbonate (optional K2CO3). Micro mixes come in several variates. They are all dirt cheap, last a long time and just need a set of small Teaspoons or gram scale. You can dump them in dry or make your own solution. I’ve done both and recently make my own solution. It’s just too easy to squeeze a bottle and dump it in.

Blue ones Kamaka, orange tale Basmani.

It’s in the holding tank. Should I swap it with the Furcata?

If the source water is high PO4, I’d find a fertilizer option that only adds N,K and traces. This can be challenging with liquid fertilizer, but using dry fertilizer is the way to go here. What’s the NO3 out of your tap?

Can you circle it or crop it?

Way early! Just venting my frustration. I think I’m taking the Furcata out. Got my hands on Sesifloria and some 52b and a few others. The only orange I have is Miro and I’ll check out your recommendation. Curious, is Rotala Orange Juice actually orange?

It’s a mix of rainbows rasbora and lemon tetra. Dwarf neon, Basmani, Goyder river and Kamaka Rainbows.

You will never ever starve algae by reducing nutrients. You will only cause more algae by killing your plants. You need to get the phosogaurd out and start dosing the tank with a well balanced all in one or use dry fertilizer that can be tailored. I would do a nice big water change and start dosing immediately. I’d keep up on weekly large water changes and dose immediately after the water changes. Keep this up while the plants grow back in. Once new growth has returned, remove the older leaves with algae. Just to show you, I keep all my tanks at 10ppm PO4.

Eheim 2217

Is it a planted tank?

Thank you. Still have a lot of time left as well. Hopefully it comes together soon and I’m not up against the deadline.

Tank update: not going well at all. At this rate, no AGA this year. It’s obviously early, but hashing out a layout isn’t going well. Recent changes in dosing: Moved GH to about 6 degrees, Ca to 35ppm and lowered Mg to 5ppm. Reduced water changes to 50% while double dosing after water change and then 2 more doses over the week. Micros dosed 3 times a week. Trip wall is going well and only the left side needs to be added. I’m trying to use 2 Dutch streets but I’m not liking it so far. I do have a few plants just in the tank for future use making it look chaotic but some are in place. 5 more plants ordered and all green. Decisions will be made shortly whether to use 3 or 4 reds.

You will never get them all. You'll repeat the treatment to kill the eggs that hatch before they create more eggs.

You won't get them all and is why several treatments are need to clear the infection completely.

The reason to vacuum is from potential ammonia spike from the decaying worms. It’s your choice but just be aware.

You are fixated on this. When the test time period is over, it’s over. It wouldn’t matter if it turned hot pink. pH fluctuation is not an indicator of stability, pH fluctuation is completely normal and is related to O2 and CO2 concentrations dissolved in the water. Nitrification plays a role here too as it’s a weak acid at the end result. 0 to 1dKH, and maintaining 0 to 1dKH is stable. This is the single biggest misinformation in the hobby that 0dKH is bad in some way. It’s not…period. Do smaller water changes for while. Maybe once a month as well. Only do a change if it’s absolutely needed. Shrimp take a generation or 2 to become indestructible.

Uh, well…I guess this happened. He was a big boy too.

Coralvue Hydros

PH fluctuations do not harm fish. Keeping GH and KH stable is what matters. Here’s my pH profile for a week.

Get to a minimum of 1 and keep pushing. 1 to 1.5 is what you are looking for. Watch the fish while pushing beyond 1. 1.2 is good target.

No

It’s flukes, paracleanse in my experience is no longer effective against flukes but is worth a try if you already have it. I would use this instead. https://a.co/d/hYMNsGS if you have plecos, don’t use the above and cross fingers for paracleanse to be effective. Prazipro is another option but like I mention, is no longer effective with resistance strains of flukes.

Lime green is what you are looking for. Checking pH is a better indicator and can be measured in real time.