AnimalNerd98

I had neon tetras who would nip my Platinum male betta’s fins. I haven’t tried them out, but I like the look of Harlequin rasboras and Kubotai rasboras. I will vouch that Chili rasboras look amazing in person, but if they’re not available, their cousins (Phoenix rasboras and Exclamation Point rasboras) are also quite entertaining.

You could do a Pearl weed mat, but I would let that establish first because Cories love to unroot every new plant 😊

Here are some of my personal favorites: Neon tetras, ember tetras, Chili rasboras, Kubotai rasboras

I think Fly River Turtles are considered “fully aquatic.” Cory and Dean both have one each and I didn’t see Cory provide a basking area for his. Cory also has musk turtles, but I’m not sure if they’re loggerhead musk turtles. Let’s tag him @Cory Although there are some other turtle species that hardly bask like Mata Mata turtles and some snapper species, most care guides suggest you provide one. I think this is because there is a movement in the reptile hobby right now to provide UVB/UVA and heating areas for more and more reptiles. It is now being suggested for many species of geckos and snakes, even though many people have kept them for decades without any lighting equipment. I think it comes down to people wanting to provide the “best” care possible, including any marginal benefits that may come from an underutilized resource for the animal. One of the main benefits for providing UVB is to stimulate the production of vitamin D3. As such, many reptile supplement powders have added Vitamin D3 but there is also debate on how effectively the reptiles can take it up. The main takeaway is that if you don’t provide UVB, you need to make sure that your turtle is getting all the vitamins it needs through its nutrition. Basking also allows for the turtle to thermoregulate and also come out of the water to completely dry (and kill any bacteria on the turtle). So I agree with @Chris that you should at least have an area where it can come out (like a floating log or a platform), even if there aren’t any lights up there.

This looks like a prime tank for some Neocaridinia shrimp. If that’s not your fancy, I think Pygmy cories will do well in here. They like to perch on plants and since it is so heavily planted, they will feel more secure and you can see them more often.

I think the very hardy ones will survive. I always err on the side of caution, especially for fry. If you don’t have a tank to plop them in, they could do just fine in a 5 gallon bucket until they get some size on them. For acclimating fish back indoors, I usually put them in buckets and bring them into the house to warm up to room temp gradually (over the course of a couple hours or overnight). From there, I tend to temperature acclimate them to my tanks like when you get new fish from the store. I float them in a cup or my handy Aquarium Co-Op specimen container, adding a squirt from a turkey baster every 5-10 mins until the temps are close enough.

Isopods are a type of crustacean that live in saltwater, freshwater, and land. The land loving ones are often called pill bugs. A common kind in North America is A. vulgare, known as the common roly-poly. I believe in French they are known as les cloportes. From what my cousin says, many Germans refer to them as kellerassel. Hope that helps ✌🏻

I am also looking at food containers, haha! I actually just used one recently as a water reservoir for my terrarium misting system Nope! Sadly, I’m in the US. Honestly, I would love to just have something similar to the rack that Aquarium co-op uses but even they ended up changing out the tanks 🙃

I have used tank dividers in the past (both canvas and the sturdier ones from Creative Pet Keeping). They definitely work, but I was looking at these tanks as either grow-outs or for higher volume betta set-ups. I ordered one to see what it looks like and it is indeed horrendous. Back to the drawing board 😂 Yes, seeing one in person, I realized it’s way too tall as well. It takes up more vertical space than I originally thought. But, I think I figured out how to hook stuff up if I wanted to DIY something with a similar design in the future

Keeping Fish Simple did a video on breeding them. He set it up with a pretty low pH. I think the other major thing is making sure that you have infusoria cultures set up for the teeny tiny fry.

Do we have any isopod nerms on here? If yes, post some pics of your colonies! My established colonies are my P. pruinosus ‘powder orange’ and A. gestroi. The P. laevis and the P. pruinosus ‘Oreo Crumble’ are new. I also got P. pruinosus ‘white out,’ ‘powder blue,’ and ‘orange cream’ for my birthday recently.

Could you provide some more details like: 1) Length and type of the goldfish 2) By Fluval filter, do you mean a canister filter? If it’s a relatively small goldfish, then yes. It may work for a short term set-up, but if you want to keep it there long-term, it may require some additional upkeep. You’ll have to monitor the tank and water chemistry depending on the water temp, how much you feed, etc. It can be done, but it depends on how much effort you’re willing to put in.

First off, beautiful tank. Love what you did! For crushed coral, you can add it to a media bag or just sprinkle it in the aquarium. I sprinkle some in the back near the hard scape where it’s hidden and just add some more whenever it’s done. The closer it is to any water flow, the higher the rate at which it will dissolve into the aquarium. This process will also take time, you won’t see huge changes in KH overnight. More like over the course of a week or a couple weeks. Raising KH will help prevent large pH swings or crashes, but will not necessarily raise the pH itself.

One reason why you might have high GH but calcium deficiencies is because GH measures both Magnesium and Calcium ions. So your water might have lots of Magnesium but not much calcium. To give some more insight for KH and pH, could you tell us: 1) Are you injecting CO2 into the aquarium? 2) How often are you changing water in your aquarium and how much do you change at a time?

The white spot is her egg spot or ovipositor tube (where eggs are laid) so I wouldn’t be too worried. She could be gravid (full of eggs). Brine shrimp also act as a natural “laxative.” What is her behavior like? Is she inquisitive and looking around the tank or is she hiding/moping?

I lurk around on the forum 🤓

I usually only name my pet fish or showpiece fish. Never the fish that are in schools. All my previous and current bettas have names: 1) Koi betta named Gemini because it had two different colored eyes 2) Female red betta named Rosa 3) Platinum male betta named Snowflake 4) Blue marble male called Ciel 5) female pea puffer named Boba

No spawns yet, but I just wanted to show some close-ups of the pair.

I agree with @TheSwissAquarist I have raised up about 30 platinum ricefish by using and rotating these scouring pad spawning mops

Will be following this thread. I got 10 Pink Flamingo crypts (tissue culture) from a PetCo last week for $24. I am trying to propagate them first before converting some to immersed growth.

I think the “average” person will probably have more success with a potted plant. Although many potted plants are grown emersed like tissue cultured plants, you can still have some time for conversion with immersed growth at the store (granted that you aren’t buying them the day that they get shipped in). If you buy them from the Co-Op, they do a lot of the converting for you so they’re ready to rock and roll when they hit your tank. For tissue cultures, you have to do the conversion yourself. If I have a carpeting plant like microsword or Dwarf Sag, I find it much easier to plant the pot into the substrate itself and letting it propagate out of the pot. For tissue cultured plants, they are a lot smaller and sometimes their root systems are not very developed yet, so it’s a hassle trying to plant them. Like @lefty o said, there is no chance for snails or similar pests from getting in with a tissue cultured plant but there is a method of “treating” potted plants to achieve similar results. Look up Reverse Respiration on the forum. Lastly, price. Potted plants usually give you more bang for your back, or more plant for less money. Tissue cultures are small and can be relatively expensive for what you get. The price is coming down for a lot of tissue cultures though, especially when sold by big companies like PetCo. I recently got 10 Crypt Pink Flamingo at a PetCo for about 24 bucks.

Just to let you know, the Prime will release from the ammonia after 24 hours. Source: So you would technically need to dose it every day and not just after water changes to keep the ammonia in a less toxic state. I would suggest doing the RO/DI with SeaChem Equilibrium as a short term solution. For a long term solution, you can consider using floating plants or vining plants like Pothos or Philodendron to act as biological sponges of ammonia and other nitrogenous wastes.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by 25% of the the time? Are you talking about working in general or the sound level? Also, if it’s just a single tank, you can always just use an actual water pump (submersible or HOB) if you want it to be near silent.

Just a little chunky, maybe even gravid but not entirely sure. Reminds me of this:

I typically order about every 6 months. Largely, this was because I was a college student and my part-time job barely paid for my rent and other essentials. I usually only ordered with birthday or gift money 😝 Now that I’m working, the frequency of orders might change 😉 What usually causes me to order is if there is anything new or exclusive from the Co-Op that I want to try. My LFS now carries their sponge filters, meds, Xtreme foods, and even Ziss Brine Shrimp hatchery so my next purchases will probably be the CO2 regulator and maybe the Co-Op light whenever it comes out.