Bill

@modified lung: The capturing and downloading of data as CSV for Excel import would actually be trivial to implement as we are continuously monitoring. What sampling frequency would be useful? There is no display on the unit, the current sensor values are show on the "app", inside each tank display. ORP will be available soon, I'll have to look into the TDS. The power supply is internal, the only thing we use USB for is data, for example if you wanted to expand to multiple hubs in the same room, where running USB cable is feasible, as it is less expensive than additional WiFi hubs. @anewbie: The "control" for something like temperature is really only a safety, i.e. shutting off the heater should it's thermostat malfunction (this happens). If you wanted your temperature to be 78, you'd probably set a high temperature of 80 as an alert / shut off. As mentioned above, downloadable data would be something that could be easily added, as an option that you'd have to turn on (no sense storing it if only interested in monitoring). I believe mentioning the product name would be against forum policy (advertising), but if you're interested you can PM me. Thanks for the feedback.

I haven't been visiting the forum lately, as I have been really busy. Back in this post, I said I was working on a controller: https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/214-neptune-apex-aquarium-control/#comment-19038 And in fact, just completed it the initial version, which is just about to go on the market. I'm a software engineer / architect, and my friend is an electrical engineer. We worked together in the past designing and building standards based Smart Grid control systems. What started out as a side project evolved into full production of a system that is geared towards those with "MTS" (multi-tank syndrome), which aims to be very user friendly. I can't say the product name, but what I specifically want is feature input from anyone who has used controllers like the Apex and Felix, or anyone interested. What features would make a multi-tank system ideal for you? Since I am in control of the system architecture and software development, I will definitely incorporate all valuable suggestions. Some features of existing systems were discussed in this thread: https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/214-neptune-apex-aquarium-control/#comment-1057 These are the current features, and I am looking for any features NOT listed that you'd like to see: You can add as many tanks as you want. Temperature, pH, maintenance, etc will be shown for each tank. Single controller, ethernet or wifi with 8 outlets and sensor ports. You can expand with less expensive 8 or 4 outlet boxes with sensor ports anywhere in your home where you have tanks via wifi. Totally modular, using third party components that can be purchased directly from the manufacturer. Each tank can have pH and temperature probes continually monitored (level detection and flow in future version) High and low temperature and pH values can activate any number of outlets (e.g. turn off the heater if the temperature in Tank 2 is above 80), or turn on the C02 based on pH values). Any number of timers, each controlling any number of outlets. These can be associated with tanks (e.g. timer1 controls the lights for tank one and tank two). Tank maintenance reminders - useful for things done infrequently, like "clean canister filter" every three months. Leak detection with ability to activate outlets (e.g. turn off canister filters). Local audible alarm SMS notifications for high/low values, leaks, or maintenance due (each one can be turned on/off). Backup / restore for all configuration settings (local and cloud). I will mention that support for video cameras with remote viewing is under development. Thanks for any input or suggestions, I'd love to incorporate them! Bill

Hey, I'm pretty sure that beneficial bacteria needs water flow, so unless you have an under-gravel filter, most of the BB will be in your filter so I'd not worry about the gravel.

Once a tank is cycled, I've never really seen a problem with ammonia spikes, unless the water quality is really bad... I've sometimes seen unexpected nitrite spikes in tanks that I thought were cycled, but really didn't build up enough BB that consumes nitrites. What are your nitrate and nitrite readings with that level of ammonia?

Yeah I hate it when I think I got an amazon sword planted just right and not too deep, and it floats to the surface about 5 times. Then I jamb it in, and I know its too deep, lol.

I have that in my 53 gallon display tank setup in August (no C02, crypts, java fern, val, etc). Finally starting to look really good after 4 months, plants finally overtook algae and are growing nicely. Water is very clear. And I barely fertilize.

I saw the video with Jason from Prime Time Aquatics talking about the Ziss. He had a light shining right on it, as I do with my SF bay hatchery. I place a flexible arm desk lamp with a 40 watt bulb right over the open top of the 2 liter bottle. So I get light and heat. It keeps the water exactly around 80 - 81 degrees, with my room temp around 70 degress.

I actually felt the same way and was thinking about blue when I was looking to get a pair. Right before going to pick up a few, I saw a YouTube video with Dean sitting in front of a 29 gallon tank with 13 beautiful koi ... so I ended up with a pair of koi 🙂 Good thing though, because 4 local shops said they sell well and would be willing to buy them. I have a question, which I why I looked for this thread... I have a black marble and a koi that paired unintentionally. After pulling the eggs I finally have a batch that was not eaten. Just starting to vaguely look like "darts" ... what would you expect them to look like from a black marble and koi? Real hard to tell at this point, but almost looks to me like I see some light, orange, and a good amount of black almost like the koi with a lot of black.

I have diatoms on my two newest tanks, I know they don't bother anything but I'd rather not look at them, at least on the glass, and on the plants... It's been over 3 months, and I'm starting to finally see plant growth picking up, so I'm hoping that reduces them. I'd post a pic, but I just cleaned most before last water change. Always starts to form within a week.

I've been making these every day for a while, following the instructions in the great video by @Irene. I made a couple of minor adjustments: 1. I don't know if this is true, but an experienced breeder said he finds it better if the salt melts before starting, so I put the salt in a cup and add a small bit of really hot water to melt it before adding it. 2. The SF bay site, who also sells the eggs, gave the range of salt needed for hatching, and they claim that the eggs hatch better at the lower end of the range, so I use exactly 1 tablespoon, instead of 1 2/3 - 2. I am pretty sure I noticed a difference, but would have to repeat to confirm. 3. I add half the water, then the eggs. I leave it like this while I clean up, then add the rest of the water and cover with the light. Lets them get water logged without me needing to stick my fingers in and push them back down 🙂. The 40 watt bulb right over the top keeps the temperature right at 80 degrees. 4. When draining the BBS, I point the light at the very bottom, and put a towel over the top of the bottle to block out all light except the very bottom. I did this after seeing Dean shine the light at the very bottom in a dark room. I think it helps. Leave it about 5 minutes, then drain until it runs clear. Leaving it covered and light still positioned, you can let more collect at the bottom and drain again after a minute or so.

I actually found this thread googling. I'm going through the same thing right now. I actually have 3 batches going. One from a nice pair of Koi and two from a pair of Petco angels (koi and black marble) that kept spawning in my community tank. The koi did a great job raising the first batch, but ate the eggs the second time, and the female was not eating well so I pulled the second batch of eggs so as not to stress here. A huge thanks to @Brian Scottfor advising me on exactly what to do to get her eating again (which was different from advise from two other experts)! Anyway, I know some experienced breeders say it's easier (and better yield) to hatch the eggs separately, but I found much easier to let the parents do it, if they can. I swear, it seemed like they even knew how to eat and swim better the first few times when with parents, like going right after the BBS rather than watching it drift by and taking days to learn to eat. I see why @Brian Scott prefers this method! Anyway, I'm currently using two large glass jars with airstones submerged in a 10 gallon tank that has a heater in it. I take the jars out and place them on my desk in good light for feeding and water changes. Will move them into 10 gallon tanks with seasoned sponge filters soon by draining most of the water and pouring them into their rearing tanks. The first batch that were raised by the koi parents came out extremely well. Any that were lost were too small to notice, and I only found 1 dead body since they reached the "dart" stage. Only one or two obvious deformities out of about 190 - 200, but I have to examine them closely.

Then we're the same age(s).

I need that! We must be around the same age, lol

can see eggs better with flash.

I just got this yesterday! Like $19, a 2.5 gallon serving thing from target. Angel spawn on breeding cone, wanted something to put it in with a mini heater and airstone, but easily able to change water when needed and this drains, so I can pour water in while draining and keep the eggs under water.

Use wood shims. If it's crazy out of level, you may need something else like 1x6 or whatever, with wood shims on top to make small adjustments (I think they're like 1/4" or 1/3" max) but I've never had a floor that unlevel. I use the black composite wood shims from home depot or lowes, they are strong and you can break them off easily.

Yeah, the DIY guy on YouTube builds all his own stands, and had a tank explode sometime later, because a pebble came off his shoe when he was climbing on the stand, and it was making contact with the glass. Also make sure stands are level, regardless of rimmed or rimmless ... probably a non-issue for 5 gallon tanks, but could be for larger tanks.

I know it would be better to use in food, but if a fish isn't reliably eating has anyone used Metroplex in the tank water as described, and successfully treated parasites like hexamita, as in a definite improvement after treatment?

Any hobby that you enjoy, learn something from, express creativity, etc. is always worth doing. I would only limit the number based on whether or not I have the bandwidth to give each the amount of attention needed to really get something out of it.

I'm giving a go at breeding angelfish, and I just watched a video where @Cory talked about optimizing setups, and gave an example about breeding angels and sterbai corydoras together. I'm definitely considering this because I love both of them.

If I could have one set of "gadgets" on all my tanks it would be the following: 1. Heater monitor to shut off the thermostat if set temperature is exceeded (currently have some Inkbirds). 2. If using a canister, a leak detector to shut off the filter if a leak is detected. 3. Automatic light controller that simulates sunrise and sunset, and lets me control the brightness. If I was injecting CO2 I'd want a detector / shutoff for the same reasons I want the heater monitored, for safety. Even if I didn't have a planted tank I would still want to control the lights if nothing else but to simulate a more natural environment, and avoid having sudden rapid light changes. Especially since I have tanks in my basement. I also want this to be much more cost effective than it currently is. I'm putting my engineering skills to work to see if I can do something about that...

I'd talk to the owners of the local shops, and ask them what they'd want and be willing to buy. You need to know that in advance, and make sure it's something you'd want to breed otherwise selling online is your only option, and then you'd have more options.

The UGF needs to pull the water through gravel, sand will likely be too fine. Not sure I'd do this for a 10 gallon.

What is your current filter? I'd siphon into a 5 gallon bucket, move all the fish in there, then do what you need to in the tank. If you had gravel it would be better because you could put it right back in over the UGF, and keep some of the beneficial bacterial (not as much as you'll have in it using an UGF) but obviously you'll be getting rid of the sand. Run your current filter for 2 weeks until the beneficial bacteria builds up in the new substrate.

Looks like a bosami.