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Bill

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Posts posted by Bill

  1. I noticed the same with a 100 gallon tub that I used to use for breeding angels, it has a heater and circulating pump... not breeding anymore but I kept it for aged water when I do water changes in my tanks (easy to scoop buckets of pre-heated, dechlorinated aged water). It's not doing it any more, but I suspected it was the heater or the pump. 

  2. I rarely if ever clean the sand layer that caps soil. I usually add a mix of various size pebbles over the parts where the sand is visible, around rocks and other hardscape.  Gives it a natural look. When I do water changes, which I don't do often, I use a 3/4" tube and hover it an inch over the bottom (or over plants) and shake it just enough to stir up anything that's light and loose, like any old plant decay, or breakdown of any driftwood shavings.  The one here has a good amount of light color sand visible. 

    IMG_5936.jpg

    IMG_5933 (1).jpg

  3. On 2/15/2023 at 9:18 AM, jwcarlson said:

    The regular Kasa plugs (the minis, I think they call them) don't have power usage information, basically just if it was on/off no information about the connected load.  The Smart Strip does have kW consumption.  

    Bill, this controller would presumably have some sort of associated app for a phone if it's controlling the Kasa stuff?

    Actually, they do have individual plugs (minis) that support energy monitoring, they are the KP-125. The other mini is the EP-10, which does not support it. Likewise, the 3-strip outlet (KP303) does NOT support it, but the 6-strip (HS-300) does. We tested all of them, and they all work. We're just recommending the EM plugs, definitely worth the money ($41 for 4-pack individual, $46 for 6-outlet strip). The plugs are great, as they fit over outlets without blocking.

    And yes, the controller has its own app. We discover the plugs, and let the user designate which one's they want to use with our app. We then recommend that they don't do anything in the Kasa app that would conflict. However, you can still use both. Our app only communicates with the plugs on the local WiFi network--the Kasa app goes through the TP-link cloud with your credentials so you it can access the plugs remotely. I am guessing they do that by default, but it if was down, their app would access them directly on the local network (the app can't lose communication with plugs if TP-link, or your ISP is down!).
     

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  4. Following up on the "monitor only" solution that was discussed. Even if the system isn't controlling outlets, monitoring them can be important. To the degree that we decided to support off the shelf Kasa smart plugs. Basically, letting users delegate which plugs to monitor (and optionally control) outside of the Kasa app. For $41 on amazon for 4 plugs, I definitely think it's worth putting one on each of my canister filters (and I did). That way you can detect if the filter is clogged (raised or low consumption) or stops working (zero consumption). I see that ACO sells them, and @Irene did a video on using its timer, but also using expected features, like timers on heaters and filters, just so you don't forget to turn them back on (we've all done it).

    @nabokovfan87, we are close to finished adding most of what you listed, minus KH and oxygenation (not yet researched). Even the "physical button" (would take up one port). I realized I am also sometimes too lazy to take out my phone 🙂. Also, the Kasa plugs have strips and singles, can be placed anywhere and address the space issue. In fact, we hope never to have to sell our own "boxes with outlets". 

    Again, if any advanced Apex users have features that are "can't live without", would love to hear them. Thanks.

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  5. Plants remove nitrates, which can reduce the need for water changes, but filtration to me usually implies biological filtration, removing ammonia and nitrite. For that you want water flow and a large surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow, whether it be sponge filters, canisters or HOB with sponges and other good bio media. 

  6. I had one for 15 years, and agree with what others said about the water being crystal clear. If I were using the right kind of gravel / substrate I'd definitely use one again. But I have all planted tanks, and found they do better with aqua-soil capped with sand, so I use canister filters. I use oversized Fluvals with lots of bio media, but with flow control, and have equally clear water compared to my UGF. 

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  7. I have two angels that I bred and ended up keeping, in a similar setup 29 gallon tank with 10 rummy nose tetras, and they're fine. The substrate might be a little bit lower, and I keep the tank filled to the black rim, they have plenty of room.  Your tank looks great! 

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  8. On 1/18/2023 at 1:35 AM, Confetto said:

    I'm not in love with my original sponge filter. I have been running an Aquaneat mini in my 3gal since July last year. It's just OK. My tank in clear and the levels test well, but it's so tiny that air stones won't fit inside. It has good reviews on Amazon and it hides well in the tank, yet I feel like I'd like the co-op nano sponge better.

    I have only setup one nano tank, also a 3 gal, and went with the Oase biocompact 25, putting in media from an existing canister. Water is crystal clear. You could probably cut up the sponge up and put that in it (obviously quickly and keeping it wet) and not lose anything. 

    EDIT: I don't can't tell the size of that sponge, maybe it would fit as is... I used one single plastic pot scrubber that I had in another large canister, and it just fit. 

  9. As some others have said, I also really like black. Looks great with the green plants, wood, rocks. etc., and I like not seeing anything behind the tank. I use Rustoleum flat black spray, really easy. I have used poster board, but I use canister filters and don't like it getting in the way, so I prefer it painted. 

  10. On 1/12/2023 at 2:01 PM, dasaltemelosguy said:

    I too would STRONGLY recommend that ANY information gotten from that site be VERIFIED.

    That is sound advice to follow for information stated on ANY site. I specifically mentioned that site in the context of cycling (topic of this thread), because there are relatively simple tests listed that anyone can try, and get some insights into things like "does bacteria in a bottle" actually work. 

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  11. On 1/12/2023 at 12:21 PM, Stef said:

    But they give me the willies and remind me of aquatic mice. My very first group of Amanos I was netting into my tank and one ran out of the net and up my bare arm and I freaked. I had no idea they were that fast and that mobile. The shrimp fell into the water so he is fine but I’ll be forever scarred for life 😆

    This made me laugh! They don't give me the willies, but damn, I don't want them crawling out! This was from a different forum post:

    "I recently got some ghost shrimps and cherries, last night I saw one of these f***ckers hanging around on top of the lid like some cockroaches, the lid only covers half of the tank. What are the odds will they crawl on me in my sleep?"

    This reminded me of your post. I have never had shrimp before, my daughter has them, I guess I can ask her. I'd actually rather do a few endlers, but I'm thinking a 6 gallon minimum might be better for that? Dunno... have not done a nano tank before. 

     

    • Haha 2
  12. On 1/12/2023 at 12:34 PM, Schuyler said:

    Although maybe getting students to add urine to there tank could land you in got water with the school board...

    Yeah they should stick with the Ace hardware ammonia. I used Black Kow in a bio bag, and added the ammonia every day as he suggested (differed from the Dr. Tim method), and there was some tannins in the water when finished, which I got rid of overnight with a bag of purigen in my canister.

  13. I actually just did the same thing, with a spare tank my daughter had. I'm considering shrimp. I capped the aqua soil with sand and some pebbles, and also put in a tiny OASE Aquatics Biocompact 25. I took a single pot scrubber out of my canister, full of bacteria and it just fit in. Within a couple hours the water was crystal clear. 

  14. I don't any tank over 53 gallons, but I have nothing but Fluval x07 canister filters on all my tanks (even a small one on my 14 gal). I love them, they are silent, have adjustable flow, and the design of placement of the sponges is great for mechanical filtration but also gives you a ton of extra bio filtration. I fill all the trays with K1 media and/or pot scrubbers, and all tanks are crystal clear. 

  15. On 1/11/2023 at 9:55 AM, jwcarlson said:

    I'd be interested in a monitoring device/devices.  Possibly a controller, but I'm not doing anything fancy at all in any tanks.  I think the biggest question I'd have is what the calibration procedure and frequency is...?

    The calibration procedure for temperature probes is to put it in an ice water bath, then click the calibration button, the procedure takes about a minute. The system adjusts with the new offset, and records the last time calibrated. Same for pH probes, except for that you place the probe in a neutral 7.0 reference solution (Amazon sells it). So far, all the probes I've tried were very close without calibration (e.g. a temperature probe off by 0.3 degrees, or a pH probe off by 0.1). Not sure yet about how often, but the procedure is really easy. I use the pH monitoring on my guppy tank, because they like a pH of 7 or above, and mine always goes down to like 6.2 with nothing, so I use a low pH alert to adjust it. Below is a pic of the sensors left to right: ORP, pH, temperature.

    IMG_7002.jpg

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  16. On 10/14/2022 at 8:13 PM, anewbie said:

    You should post an update to this thread if you offer a monitor only solution at a lower price point...

    Based on feedback here and elsewhere, we did offer a lower priced monitor only option, currently with temperature, pH, and ORP with SMS notifications should any exceed configured high or low values. Also as asked for, we will be including TDS monitoring after we finish testing some new sensors.  

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  17. On 10/15/2022 at 12:49 PM, modified lung said:

    Do you know when more info and sales might be available? My employer is also looking for some continuous monitors with logging capabilities. A multiple tank logger would be perfect and save a ton of money in the long term. I was going to build and program them myself through Arduino but it would be a huge learning curve and idk if I have the time.

    Sure if you want specific info, send me a PM I will get you the details. I can't provide product details on this forum, but I really value the input and requests of coop forum members. IMO this is the best place to get ideas on what people in the hobby want. As far as time, I get it... look at the time between my first post that I was building such a system and now!

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  18. @anewbie and @modified lung

    We agree about the log capturing, and as I said because it is a simple addition to what we are already doing, it is now officially on the near term roadmap on as a per-sensor option to turn it on. ORP and TDS sensors are available, we have just not tested them yet. ORP will be available sooner, TDS will take a little more time. 

    As far as cost, it might be close to your range since you would not need the outlets and enclosure. You could just purchase the controller SBC (a small 3" x 3.25" x 1" device that runs the software and has sensor ports and a power supply) and all the sensors and adapters that you need. We sell them, or you can buy directly from the manufacturer, the cost is the same. We actually do have "for the fishroom" section, as opposed to "for the showroom" for this purpose. 

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  19. @anewbie I totally get it. Lots of options, and definitely price tradeoffs. To be clear, I have a Felix, and unless something changed with the new version, their controller supports one tank and it's 8 outlets. The app lets you connect to multiple controllers, so you can monitor them all from the app, but each is its own controller. I think they offer a discount for more than one. The setting menu has "tank" (not "tanks") setup. Our system has one controller, and as many "hubs" as you want, each hosting outlets and sensor ports. The central controller can see and control all attached sensors and outlets connected to any hub. The hubs can be connected by USB (if you can run a cable), or over Wifi for separate rooms. The USB hubs are a little cheaper than WiFi. Bottom line is that the up front cost for one tank might be a little higher (then a Felix might be a better fit), but as you add tanks the cost saving per tank is significant. 

  20. On 10/14/2022 at 3:49 PM, anewbie said:

    The thing about temp 'control' is you can buy cheap controllers  - far cheaper than the monitors with controllers on the market. You still need an alert if the heater fails which is not uncommon.

    Yes, I've always had several Inkbirds. What I meant by "control" was that if you wanted your temperature at 78 you could technically set  your heater above 80, and set the high setpoint at 78, and then the system would be "controlling" the temperature (by turning the heater off when it went above 78). But we recommend setting the desired temperature on the heater (the heater is the controller), and only using the system to cut it off should it malfunction and the high temperature be exceeded. 

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