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NordernAquariums

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Everything posted by NordernAquariums

  1. It is great reading others experience selling fish to their LFS and I am glad @ChefConfit you had a good experience. I have sold to a few local fish stores and has discussions with others. Of those 5/6 stores, each is very different in what they are open to, willing to do, and expect. Some have offered really low prices, others have had strict size requirements, and my preferred store is super laid back about it. I typically receive around a 3rd of what they sell for, sometimes less for some more common fish. I hope you can continue to have success.
  2. I have held them in a 20 long and thought it worked out great. Plenty of room to spread out and increase numbers. It is also short enough that with plants or hardscape they can utilize that and go vertical. Like others have mentioned, you can get away with about anything for shrimp.
  3. Great topic @Tedrock! I am planning to move next spring and build a fish room, I have been considering the question of whether or not to automate. A few questions: Do you think drip systems waste too much water? If I do a 25% traditional water change on a 10 gallon, I know I have 25% new water. If I use a drip system and change 25%, how much new water do I have? My water is rather extreme, GH 300, KH 300+, pH 8.0, TDS 550, Nitrate 20PPM Due to my water, interest in breeding, and fish selection I use quite a bit of RO, so I already feel a bit wasteful. What would a semi-automated alternative to a drip system be? Any insight would be great. Thank you
  4. Does anyone notice a larger percentage male? I have purchased rice fish from three different individuals and each time it has been extremely male dominant, and in two of the cases they arrived very small before I would think they are sexable.
  5. Very early on I had a 90 gallon corner tank, never loved the dimensions. I also tried cichlids, because in Minnesota that's what you do, quickly decided they weren't for me.
  6. This could be a time where a TDS meter could come in handy assuming the TDS of your tap water or whatever water you are using is fairly consistent. I have seen it take quite awhile to come down to my normal TDS. Let's say you add 100 "salts" if you do another 50% water change, you are down to 50 "salts" If you do another 50% water change you are down to 25 "salts" If you do a 3rd 50% water change you are down to 12.5 "salts" Obviously it's not exact and there are other factors, but to @fatblonde's point, it comes down to how much salt you used, certain amounts won't harm most plants.
  7. I have actually been looking for book ideas as well. As much as I enjoy youtube, blogs, and forums it is nice to get off the technology occasionally. I just bought Rosario LaCorte's book An Aquarist's Journey. Now this is a different read, it is his autobiography, but I still thought it would be interesting. I will be following this topic, hoping for some other good suggestions.
  8. Some of the old school guys in my club were talking about a fish disease that went through a lot of fish rooms years ago. A few of them said the tanks with mattenfilters, as apposed to any other type of filtration, did considerably better. They felt that the increased surface area may have provided a larger amount and possibly larger variety of beneficial bacteria that allowed these specific tanks to handle an illness better. Obviously this is not scientific, is not first hand, and purely their opinion. However, I did find it interesting that a few of them really believed this is what allowed them to not lose certain fish when other tanks were devastated by illness.
  9. I don't know that there is a true answer, and I certainly don't have one. I think in a health established tank, fish can probably handle more swings. Think about folks trying to encourage certain corys and plecos to breed, they will do some fairly significant temp swings. I think the main concern is when brining in new fish from a local store, hobbyist, or through the mail. I think in these situations it is more to do with the accumulated stress. Knowing the water parameters may be different, maybe they've been the mail for two days, maybe they have an illness, this is where I think the temp acclimation is important, it removes one stressor. When I do water changes, I am simply going for similar, I know it is never perfect.
  10. I definitely go through phases. I may really like someone, but get burnt out of their content or style. Generally, I focus on another channel or two for awhile, but eventually I will come back. The biggest thing I like about the Co-op (pre-Covid), is the variety. Some channels have great quality and information, but it is a hobby, they don't get to visit far away fish farms and do such unique things. I think that is why I continue to enjoy Ryo Watanabe, varied content, but it also great seeing the hobby on the other side of the world.
  11. I have never had corydora's before and recently purchased an adult group of black corydoras schultzei. I am definitely wanting to breed them and have done some research on triggering them. I have only had them for about two weeks, so I am not surprised I haven't had any breeding activity yet, but I wanted to share my tank and see if anyone has any suggestions for tank setup. 20 long Sponge filter and box filter Sand substrate Guppy grass and potted crypts Temp 79 Any feedback, ideas, or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
  12. I am amazed you have the self control to not have tanks under your row of tanks!
  13. If you have access to RO water or something on the softer side that would probably help with the soak. I've soaked with RO and vinegar and had decent success.
  14. I don't have anything bigger than a 40, so I am enjoying everyone's perspective. I didn't know 53 gallons was a thing. Hoping to move next spring and have a main display tank, debated 55/75. Ideally would like to do rainbows, so I am thinking 75.
  15. That's an impressive setup. Is there anywhere you go over your setup and how it works? What works best?
  16. I don't know, I am just curious, would the peat moss be absorbing the nutrients/nitrates?
  17. It is so simple, but makes a typical "boring" breeding/grow-out setup look so good.
  18. I have been in similar situations several times, I am constantly making super reds. I don't have an exact size as to when I would move them, I am more focused on getting them a bit sturdier so I can throw them into their growout. I used a 10 gallon for growouts for well over a year, it works, but it is a pain. I was doing 50% water changes every other day, once or twice had some health issues. Be careful about leaving them in the breeder box too long, during the holidays I left a group in two long and some had damaged fins, that started to turn the wrong direction. Bad situation, my fault, and led to some culling. I know it can be a bummer to dedicate the tank space, but they now have a 30 gallon grow out and it makes life so much easier for me. Hope this helps.
  19. I feel like it will have more to do with the seller, how they keep their fish, and mail their fish than the physical location. I have ordered from Dan's Fish several times and have been really impressed with his shipping. Cory covered some of this in his video tonight, but I think focusing on finding what you want, asking questions, and looking at reviews will be a good guide.
  20. Awesome! I may have listened to a few hours of fish room content with @Cory and @Dean’s Fishroom this morning while trying to figure it out.
  21. I appreciate all the positive comments. The top tank with the mop floating has been really successful for me, lot's of crypts that have taken over, some Kamaka's I occasionally breed and super red bristlenose plecos constantly breeding. The townhouse has some challenges I have had to make work with: Determine what tanks/weight I am comfortable with on the second floor. I found this to be an educational article: http://www.african-cichlid.com/Structure.htm Humidity: everything has to have pretty tight lids, so I use the twin wall polycarbonate panels. I also bought roll of clear PVC table protector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SR8PR66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I have cutting small pieces of this to use for small holes and edges that need covered. For example I have traditional glass tops on a tank that I used to use a HOB filter, I no longer use the HOB, but have the big cut in the plastic. So I cut a portion of this to cover that hole. Power is a challenge since every tank uses a heater. Like many people I started off using HOB's, but have moved away from them, except where I am wanting the water flow. As I have really focused on sponge, and recently started including some box filters, I have had to figure out how to maximize air. I originally had some of the tetra whispers, but I am trying to get away from them. I like the Aquatop AP-100 since you had the two outlets, I also use a Hydrofarm 4 outlet pump. I have one of the Co-Op's USB nano pumps and I am interested in using more of those. Tank stocking is a constant juggle. I like breeding, so I am often focused on having some mid/top water fish and some thing on the bottom. The 30 gallon tank with the ziss is my super red growout tank, and I now working on Miyuki white medaka rice fish up top.
  22. Great topic! I don't have an answer for your question. However, I've a question to add to the topic: I think it started with Dean, floating containers in tanks and he was floating containers, I think they wrapped them in a foam backer or something similar. Does anyone know if there are any specifics that I should look into? Do I need to worry about the foam not being aquarium safe? Any ideas?
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