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Steph’s Fish and Plants

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About Steph’s Fish and Plants

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  1. I’d say Bettas and Platies are the hardiest. Bettas are nice because you only need (and should have) 1 so it’s better cost wise than livebearers where you want 3 and will get babies (which can be a challenge to deal with). Bettas are also attractive because they do perfect in nano tanks that you can put on a desk. I think because of this tho they’re so prone to being put in suboptimal conditions. That combined with how they’re normally presented in pet stores. I agree with @Aubreytho for method of picking out other fish if a betta isn’t something the person is interested in. People in general will put more work into something they’re truly passionate or care about. If someone really likes African cichlids, they’ll put the time in to learn about and care for African cichlids, giving them a betta won’t be good for anybody. And that goes for all fish. The best beginner fish is one that’s either easy to care for, or easy to find out how to care for, and the one that inspires the most in the individual fish keeper.
  2. My habrosus are on eco complete and I’ve noticed no issues so far. Cory collected corydoras in the wild and showcased they were among a very sharp substrate at the time. I don’t remember the exact video but i think it’s one of the Peru collection videos from 2019 in the Aquarium CoOp channel.
  3. Such a cool thread, I hope to be able to work with natives someday, such underrated fish
  4. Here are those updated full tank shots I was talking about 😉 pictured first is my 20 long, current stocking is 6 celestial pearl danios, a blue stiphodon goby, and 7 habrosus corydoras. The second picture is my 10 gallon with my betta Drogo and an Amano shrimp. My first ever saltwater build is coming tomorrow 😁 I won’t post in depth about it on here unless ppl ask for it but I’ll include some photos occasionally in case ppl are interested.
  5. Most tetras, danios, and rasboras should get along with each other as long as you provide enough of each species you get so they can properly school. As mentioned, different species won’t school together so if you were to get one of each species of tetra, they would all be very stressed out and alone. But a large school of a few species would do great. The smaller rasboras could potentially be an accidental snack for the largest of tetras, but that’s mere speculation on my part. The aquarium coop YouTube channel has several videos on stocking tanks and Cory mentions heavily of how to really fill out a community tank by getting fish for the different areas of the aquarium, so getting fish that like to stay in the upper third of the aquarium, fish that stay in the middle, and bottom dwellers. I’m planning on doing just that as I continue stocking my own 20 gallon community. Right now I have celestial pearl danios, which are bottom and midwater dwellers, I just added some habrosus corydoras which are bottom dwellers, and I’m also going to add some pseudomugil gertrudae rainbows, which hang out at the top of the tank. I may add an apisto as a show piece fish, and or some candy cane tetras for a bit of a bigger bodied fish. I’m not sure yet. Best of luck
  6. Sort of hijacking this post, but does anyone know the difference between seachem tidal HOBs and aqua clears? Is there a difference. I think @AdamTillbrings up an interesting point, rather than replacing what you already have just add to it. The marine lands aren’t doing a poor job, why fix what isn’t broke right? Especially if the gain is going to be very minimal. Also, redundancy is always a good thing. In the saltwater world, they’re always running backups and backups of backups in case something fails, and I think that in the freshwater world we don’t consider Ry he benefit of redundancy nearly as much. Adding a third filter and keeping the other two will keep the biological you’ve already established, and if one breaks down the line it’ll give you time to get a new one, as the other two will be sufficient. It’ll also help eliminate any dead spots you might have in the tank. And it’ll save you money. Buying one brand new filter will be cheaper than 2, and you won’t have wasted the money you spent on the others. Now you’ll have more money to spend on more fish or plants or a new heater when that fails etc.
  7. In my 3 (well now 2 bc I just tore one down in leu of a saltwater tank) freshwater tanks I haven’t tested the pH since I set them back up. I don’t even own a pH test kit at this point. What I Do test is the Kh. Kh is your buffer capacity and what keeps the pH stable, so if I have enough of that, I know my pH isn’t going anywhere. pH is only important in certain scenarios, such as highly sensitive shrimp, African cichlids, and tank crashes. Now the first two are still variable but it’s more important to be in their desired ranges than community fish and other types of cichlids. In the case of tank crashes, it’s my understanding that when the pH drops below a certain point, somewhere around 6.2 or 6.3 or something, ammonia gets converted to the non toxic ammonium, which isn’t broken down by the bacterial colonies in the tank, so it builds up and up and up until we change the water and the pH rises back up. Then, all that ammonium that’s been building up instantly becomes ammonia and shocks the system and is often times higher than what the bacteria, which have been dying off without a food source, can handle. This is a tank crash and often leads to large die offs from the combination of pH changes and high levels of toxic ammonia. A pH in the lower 8s is really of no concern however, unless you’re trying to keep extremely fancy shrimp like caridina and other similar, highly sensitive species.
  8. I would consider adding something to buffer Kh but if your tank pH doesn’t fluctuate much then I wouldn’t worry about it. As mentioned above, testing pH of tap water right after collecting it is going to give false readings because of dissolved gases which dissipate out over time. Try collecting some tap water and letting it age a day or so before testing it. The catappa and driftwood will lower it some, and having a low Kh will allow the pH to fluctuate more, which is why I suggest looking into raising that somehow, which could be crushed coral or alkaline buffer etc. the biggest thing with the hardnesses and pH however is stability. As long as there isn’t big changes or fluctuations then fish can adapt and will do just fine. My Kh out of the tap is around 2 like yours, but I’ve buffered it up to around 5 so that my pH doesn’t drop and cause ammonia issues (aka a tank crash). I have a little bit of crushed coral and I occasionally add alkaline buffer after water changes if my Kh tests low. If you do end up raising the Kh, do so slowly over the course of a few days, that way fish can adjust
  9. When in doubt, ask. Always be asking questions. The mire we can understand Why a thing is happening, the better off we are. Why do I need 6 of these fish but only 1 of these, why do I need to wait before adding fish. Why are my fish doing this. Always be asking yourself why something is happening, it’s how we learn and grow in the hobby. Another piece of advice that I always will take with me is that there’s a 100 ways to skin a cat, meaning that there are so many different ways of doing things. Some will work for you and some won’t, and what did work for you won’t always work for everyone else. I find that online and on social media it’s really easy to get caught up in looking for others mistakes and looking down upon others or having others look down upon you because of a certain thing, and while yes there are cases where there’s a lack of proper husbandry, but there’s also different ways to provide proper care and husbandry, and as long as your fish are healthy and it works for you then that’s what’s important. Everyone has their own opinions based on their own experience. Find what works for you and perfect it. and enjoy your tanks. Take time to look and really notice the little things. And I mean the little things. All the little micro fauna that will grow and develop as your little slice of nature evolves. That’s why I love bottom feeders so much, it forces you to take time to really look through the tank to find them. Keep the fish that make You excited. When you’re planning your next tank, plan it around what you want to keep. Whether it be bettas or Oscars or rainbows or peacocks or puffers or eels or whatever. Decide what you like and keep it.
  10. So unfortunately I don’t think any survived my 3 week vacation. I have 1 technically but I don’t know if it’s from the same round as the others or not. If I get more breeding action or learn anymore I’ll update here. Everyone else feel free to put your input or experience here as well
  11. Well, it’s been a while soo Update time. I went to my parents house for a few weeks for the holidays and lost pretty much all the CPD fry. Ive found one but I’m not hopeful on it making it. In other news, I tore down the 5.5 betta tank and moved Drogo the betta to a new 10 gallon palace so I can setup my first ever saltwater tank. I also got 7 habrosus corydoras today that were just moved up from my store’s breeding room 😁 I’ll ad some updated full tank shots tomorrow when the lights are on
  12. This is perfectly timed as I just got my first ever cories, the habrosus corydoras. They’re so cute!
  13. It sounds like you’re leaning toward rock? Go with your gut. There’s no right or wrong, just whether you like it, as far as scape goes. Did you cap the soil?
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