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Tihshho

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Tihshho last won the day on September 7

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  1. Thanks for the info. This is definitely something that isn't discussed much about this species. Only the agricultural documents discus flora damage, I had not read any plant damage/destruction experiences by any hobbyists.
  2. Sorry for the delay on updates to anyone following this. Currently dealing with somethings that have taken a lot of my time. Due to the current situation, the tanks were put into a minimalist routine which meant that feedings continue, but dedicated time was lost for water changes and general tank staring time at inhabitants. With that being the case I ran into two big problems and a third just being an annoyance, first being that the Ancistrus tank decided to go into full green water algae bloom mode. Usually, I do 50%'s on this tank twice weekly to keep up with the mess as the Ancistrus had been getting a mix of NLS pellets, Xtreme wafers, and blackworms daily so you can guess the amount of poop they generate daily. I'm a big believer of feeding heavy and compensating for water quality with large and regular water changes when it comes to breeding stuff. Being that three of those water changes were missed, seeing a green tank wasn't a surprise. Oddly enough, this tank historically has done this in the past and is the only tank in the room to do it. No windows, automated 10 hour light cycle with non crazy LED lights. This tank always has this issue when it's gone from a room temp tank to tropical temps. I bumped the tank temp up to 82 in preparation to move the GBR pair over right before my fishroom time had to be cut down. The next day I started to notice a haze, but nothing too crazy, week later the tank was neon green and impossible to see through. That said, green water doesn't hurt anything. In actuality once I got back into doing the large water changes to clear up the mess I noticed a few good things. The female Ancistrus has put on a decent amount of weight. On top of that, she's getting a solid egg bulge in her sides, so that is something to look forward too. The dwindling shrimp population (previous culls I couldn't catch out before putting the Ancistrus pair) had taken advantage of the green water to start their own colony. Semi annoying since I was trying to get rid of the shrimp in this tank, but they are cleanup crew at this point. The 40B is no longer just running double sponge filters, but I also added a Jehmco box filter packed with dual ply matting (coarse and fine) to polish the water to help keep up the clarity while schedules are hectic. So far so good, but if things start to get out of hand I'll have to go back to my trusty AquaClear with polisher prefilter solution to keep this tank clear. While things were in maintenance I hadn't been spending enough time looking at the GBR pair in QT. They got a quick glance with their twice daily meals and I didn't notice much besides the female picking at a terracotta saucer with the male in preparation for a spawn. Out of the blue, a couple days later she was ridden with ich. Not sure what happened, temps were constant and nothing was added with them to the QT. A day later she passed. Now I just have the lone male who is guarding the dish. Due to the outbreak on the female I'm still holding him in QT and doing a couple additional rounds of Ich-X (which I think I need a new bottle of as this one didn't really do anything though it was a brand new bottle when the other two broke out with ich.) He's ich free, chowing down on NLS and blackworms like a champ so I think he will be fine. I just need to be sure he's not going to be spreading anything to the Ancistrus when he moves. Final issue, the Frogbit I had in the shrimp tanks out of no where became infested with Aphids. I hate these things. Since I've noticed them, I've spent two mornings cleaning the surface of the leaves of each plant in a separate container and disposing of the drowned/drowning Aphids. I considered misting the surface of the plants with some Peroxide, but with Frogbit being sensitive to the tops of the leaves being wet for a long duration, I decided against that. Just putting in the manual labor for now. Not sure where they came from, but they need to go. Once my schedule gets a back to 'normal' I'll get some pictures up of the tanks. Ancistrus tank has drastically changed in appearance/layout since the last time I posted it. I stumbled upon a tote of aquarium supplied I had from prior to me moving that had a handful extra caves, so I put them in there since the male seems to be chasing the female off. I have a feeling this is due to the lack of dithers in the tank, but I'll be working on that once I get the QT tank cleared out, figure out what dithers I want to go with and get them through the QT process.
  3. I'm sorry to say, but if this is what you're talking about: Then that isn't a Neo, it's a scud. Scuds can and do pray on baby shrimp.
  4. I agree with Zenzo, quality wise plants look to be in great shape, so I'm not sure you're doing anything wrong. If you're looking for booming growth, give it time for plants to establish and they will take care of the rest as long as they get adequate light and nutrients.
  5. Smaller as in bags or wafers? I'm always after the biggest container I can get of foods that I end up using up quick. If you're looking for smaller(ish) wafers the Xtreme brand ones are a bit smaller in diameter.
  6. I might have mentioned it in terms of using it with peat for dropping pH and adding tannins. I wouldn't use them for soil IMO as I'm not sure they would hold up long term, especially post decent root growth.
  7. Are you talking about breeding in terms of spawning or breeding in terms of spawning, birthing/hatching and rearing? 10 gallons is going to be tight for high volume egg layers unless you have grow out tanks for fry.
  8. There are so many variables why this hobby is hard to get into for some. I would say the breakdown of issues are: Directions are not universal for all tank setups, all fish, all tank sizes, all filtration methods, all light options, etc. There isn't a universal blanket method works for everything. Everyone has their own idea of what their dream tank looks like, but what they want doesn't always align with the investment required to get there. Not everyone has the space required for the tank size required for the species they want to house. Not everyone has the patience to take things slow, let things mature, and then stock accordingly. Not everyone has the discipline to keep up with the regular responsibilities of keeping up with an aquarium. People buy into this hobby with limited research or bad information from a sales driven LFS. People have expectations and force things with the pipedream that they will work when they clearly wont. People these days are after instant gratification and don't understand how this isn't a thing in this hobby. There are a ton of other variables too. I'm sure this hobby to all of us would be different if we had a mentor from the beginning and listened, or we started as a club member and were educated on what we were getting into before the trip to the LFS happens and money is exchanged for goods and livestock.
  9. With oxygenation being a key, any thoughts on setting up a long tank with a sump with a wet dry? Figure you'll still need the powerheads for flow, but more agitation in part of the water column for oxygenation couldn't hurt? NA Natives are definitely outside of my scope for experience, so I'll default to your research if that recommendation is garbage.
  10. Your nose must either be stuffy when you do this or that rotting smell must not bother you. I've done this process before years ago and I can tell you it's a hassle when there others in the household. I'd say it's worse getting hassled over that smell than getting nagged why a tank is empty.
  11. But that's a great smell! Plus, you get something that was stored in cosmoline decades ago and you get to see it in its glory the day it comes back out. Definitely not fish safe if that's the preservative though.
  12. Maybe the Seattle water ways need eco puffers to take care of this infestation. Folks do it with goats. BTW, just to make sure I don't get yelled at, this was a joke... Introduction of non native species to take care of another non native species is always a poor solution.
  13. Oh this is a long list. Babies: Sera Micron Sera Rearing Small Fish: New Life Spectrum Thera +A (micro pellets) Omega One Color Flake Large Fish: New Life Spectrum Thera +A (medium/large pellets) Hikari Massivore Sinking Wafers: Hikari Algae Wafers Xtreme Sinking Wafers (just started trying these out... for the price I might swap to these from Hikari, but still trying them out to be sure) Shrimp: Dennerle Shrimpking Complete Color Mineral Protein Snowpops Yummy Gummy I used to use freeze dried foods decades ago, but between the nutritional reports I was reading, plus occasional issues with bloat I moved away from them. Also, had a few issues with fishes swim bladders and never knew why until I learned it was related to freeze dried tubifex. Since I stopped using it I've never had swim bladder issues since. Based on some of Cory's video's I figured I'd give Xtreme a try when I ran out of something I was feeding. So far I'm a fan of the wafers, bottom feeder and even shrimp are chowing down on them. Per learning the drama behind New Life Spectrum (NLS), I had to laugh because any rep I dealt with years ago wasn't as rude as Cory's experience, but damn were they pushy and had the mentality of "the world revolves around us" when it comes to their product line. Due to that and learning the history between the two companies I figure if anyone was competing with NLS on quality of pellets, Xtreme was the company to try out. Once I start to get low on the bucket and containers of NLS pellets I have I'm sure I'll give the Xtreme Nano Pellets a go. If I can get the same, if not better, quality food and save a bit going with Xtreme I will. I don't feed a lot of flake these days, but once my Omega One stuff runs out, I might try a small container of the Flake to see if it's worth converting to their line up.
  14. I've kept smaller Central American cichlids in a 10 before for breeding, but it's solely for that. I always have another tank significantly larger to move them to that'd ready and running as well as a QT/hospital tank if something goes wrong and I need to move one. The key is to have all of those parts available and RUNNING prior to starting this. You can't expect Cichlids to generally get along (there are some cases it's fine/life of the pair) but you need to plan ahead for the worst when it comes to breeding. Some dwarf cichlids in general are nice as a pair up until spawning at which point one of the pair becomes dominant and protective of the fry or eggs. At that point you need to pull the least dominant one (ideally the one who isn't rearing the eggs) and either put them into QT to heal, or acclimate them and get them into the other tank that they will be living the rest of their lives in. Or if you're going the artificial route of rearing the eggs and fry you will need to move the pair to the larger tank. I have to agree that a 20L for longterm would be more ideal, but honestly you might even want to consider larger just to play it safe if you plan on adding other fish. Not many people like to keep species only tanks, and some species need dithers just to avoid aggression within the pair. Now onto the big part that gets over looked. So you have your bigger tank that will ideally house the pair post breeding, you have your breeder tank, and you have your QT... Where are you going to put all of the Ram fry? Ok, you can rear them in a smaller tank, but they won't stay small forever. You'll also have to prepare and have tanks ready for the fry to move into as they get larger because the 10 gallon won't be able to safely house all of the babies once they get into sub adults. Larger fish equal more food going in and more waste, so the key for that is dilution which will mean a larger tank unless you have an auto water change system. Another thing, most people also do not have the connections in place to offload the offspring for breeding projects, so a grow out tank is going to more than likely turn into grow out tanks. LFS might take in the fish, but they won't take them all. They might not even take them in if they are not showing adult coloration, because then for them it's overhead of something they need to house and feed that may not sell. When breeding cichlids, you need to keep this in mind, otherwise you're going to raise babies up to a certain size at which either water quality, aggression, or just overall lack of space ends up killing a majority of them.
  15. I have tons of them in shrimp only (no fish) setups and have not noticed an issue. I never see them going after prepared foods, but mainly just grazing on wilting leaves, algae and food that isn't being touched by the Neocardinia. Once you have a large enough Neo population a seed shrimp getting closed to pellet food is a challenge in itself.
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