BNye
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Everything posted by BNye
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@LiamDo you have a nerite snail? Looks like nerite snail eggs to me, I have some that look just like this in my tank as well. I don't have experience with pygmy cories, but the cory eggs I have seen are generally more round and have more volume rather than being somewhat flat on the glass.
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- pygmy cories
- breeding
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I am not familiar with the exact size of CPD fry, but you could try using window screen mesh. I believe they sell rolls of it to cut to size at home depots or lowes. Other hardware stores may also have it.
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I believe he says you can. Here is a link to his med trio vid.
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@JeamyeB I hope they get well soon. What is the name of your water conditioner just out of curiosity?
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@JRaffy I don't personally have any tidal filter, but I think that it combined with the sponge filters will be enough flow for the aquarium. But if it ended up not being adequate you could just add an airstone in the middle of the tank for a little extra flow. For air pump I have an aquatop AP100 that powers 2 air filters and I had to turn the airflow down. It has to different outputs so you could have a output for each air pump and if you wanted a third airstone you could use a splitter in one of the lines to do it. I also like the Fluval Planted 3.0, I don't however like the price. I think that it would probably be a little overkill for just amazon swords, but the way you can optimize it with an app is nice for adjustment so you could turn it down. If you wanted to try a cheaper option you could also try a stingray and see if that works for you. I don't have personal experience with stingray lighting only what I have researched on the internet.
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@cornelius85 That is helpful thanks. What other fish are in the tank? And it is a lump correct not like a open sore like a hole in the skin?
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Is there anyway to get a little bit more clear of a picture in the QT tank? I can't quite tell on this picture. Where on the body is it located?
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@Daniel I agree, I also think that a lot of people jump immediately to what medications do I use to fix the problem. When in reality the problem is the parameters or another stress and the disease is the bi-product of that stress. As the medication may temporarily help the fish in the long term, an illness will most likely come back rather the same illness or another. I also think that it is easy for some to jump to adding all the medications rather than identify and utilize a medication specific to an illness. It is often us adding medications that we don't understand or that are not effective for our illness that deals more damage to the fish that the illness itself.
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How big are the goldfish? Do you by chance know how different the water was. I think the only real factor with different water chemistry would be if the pH had a huge difference some difference is fine in my opinion. What is the temp in the tank? Have you been using any medications? Pics?
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@JeamyeB I think, for a molly, 150 ppm is a little bit soft still as well as they prefer a little higher pH, in my opinion. Maybe try adding crushed coral to harden and buffer the water a little bit. The hardness and pH I don't know if it would cause an illness, but if it is stressing the mollies out then it definitely is a contributing factor. How long have you had the mollies for are they new or have you had them a while with no issues?
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@Dvrich89 In my opinion, I probably wouldn't worry about it for now unless it seems like they start hurting themselves or it is affecting there quality of life. I think it might help still to bring your tank temp down to 75F-76F and see if they continue to flash as frequently.
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@Daniel Not always something to worry about unless you can see signs of distress or they are doing it all the time. I had African cichlids that would just scrape the sand when they felt like it lol. I don't worry to much either unless it seems to be harming the fish. I don't love putting anything, but water in my tanks either. Seems to be that is the way aquariums work. There is always something smaller that I have to try to figure out if it is fine to be there or going to cause a problem later.
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@Dvrich89 During water changes it could just be the crud getting kicked up while changing sticking in the slime coat and irritating the fish so I wouldn't worry to much about during water changes unless they hurt themselves. What do there gills look like? Are they really red? Doing it every once in a while is normal, but if they do it a ton, besides water changes then there is something bothering them.
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@DanielIt is when fish rub against objects or will like turn on their side and hit the gravel. Its almost like the fish is itching itself against something. Can be a sign of irritation of the skin/slime coat or of external parasite. This is my best understanding.
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@Dvrich89 I don't know if you've already seen this video, but here is a link to an aquarium co-op video on neon tetras. I don't know to much about them, but this might help.
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@Dvrich89 How often do they flash? Is everything in the community tank flashing or just certain fish? Any weird discolorations or anything on the fish?
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@JeamyeBHow much salt did you use when you treated with it? I think there is a chance that the general cure will help. What are your water parameters, mainly hardness and pH for mollies?
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@Dvrich89 Are both your tanks run at 79 and what other fish are in the community tank other than the zebra danios? I don't know for sure, but its possible that 79 is a bit high for them and is irritating them in some way. I would maybe try to lower to 75-76 and see if that changes anything? It could also just be that there is so much iron in the water it is irritating them. I would assume if nothing changed after treating with all those medications that its most likely an irritating rather than a parasite that is causing the problem. Just my opinion though.
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I had a sand substrate 40 breeder that I had mbuna african cichlids in. It had a heavy bioload so I had to filter well and change water often but was always a really fun tank to watch. If you are going planted tank you could get a few angels and a super red or green dragon bristlenose pleco. Just my opinion though. @Williamirish16How is your tank set up and I could provide more specific suggestions that I would do??
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For me it depends on what you plan on stocking in the tank. What are you stocking it with?
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My guess would be a bacterial infection, I would just keep treating with the API Erythromycin and see what happens. You could also try using salt if it is not in a planted tank. Here is an article on using salt. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/aquarium-salt-for-sick-fish?_pos=1&_sid=329790e30&_ss=r. I am not sure I would use the salt in the 3.5 gallon with the snails as I am not sure how it will affects snails maybe someone will know better than me or it will be specified in the article.
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Post above is my advice on that I accidently quoted that one as I thought that was the one where I was quoted and didn't see the mistake until after I replied. My advice if you do the stratum is make sure to heavily plant, otherwise you'll have to many nutrients and the algae may go haywire. I had it happen to me with the fluval stratum. I think for plants it is better depending on the plant because the sand may become impacted. I mainly choose my substrate based on what I think will look best in the tank as you can get plants to grow almost anywhere with the right amount of effort lol.
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You could try to do shrimp, but it will have to be very heavily planted and even then I do not know if it would work. I would suggest getting a shrimp colony started and letting the plants grow in for at least 2-3 months before adding appistos that way if they eat a few shrimplets its not a big deal because you'll have plenty of shrimp to keep the population going. Like I said thought I still do not know if the appistogrammas would eat them. I would imagine it would both depend on the species, and depend on the temperament on the appistos, like bettas. Also if you do this make sure to keep the appistos very well feed.
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In my opinion they should be able to thrive in your water. My advice would be to maintain consistency in water parameters rather than chasing a certain pH or other parameters. You may be able to keep a group of some corys depending on the adult size of the ones you want. I wouldn't do rummynose AND corys since they both need to be kept in a group of around 6+ so the bioload on the 20 long may be heavy. If it were me I would just do a pair of Appistos and a group of pygmy corys and plant up the 20 long. Good Luck I love my Appistos.
