Jump to content

LDNMollies

Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

LDNMollies's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Reacting Well
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. You can safely rinse it, but if it's in a new tank w/out any fauna, I personally wouldn't bother since your filters will just suck up any dust it has picked up.
  2. Hmm, maybe I should just bleach the tank then. Re-cycling sounds more appealing than risking more Ich outbreaks.
  3. I'm treating the fish with Ich-X in a separate tank. I guess I should have made that more clear. I didn't want to stain the glass on my UNS tank.
  4. I made a rookie mistake and introduced Ich to one of my display tanks via some plants that I got from Petco. I have removed all of the fish, and they are being treated separately in a hospital tank. I cranked the temperature in the display tank up to 92, hoping to kill the Ich without killing my BB. Does anyone know if this is an effective method, and how long I will need to keep the temperature raised to ensure the Ich is gone?
  5. The two aggressive ones are heavily pregnant. So, unless I missed a couple biology lessons, I think I'm safe on that account, but I am aware of the early/late maturing males. 😂 Your swords look great, though!
  6. Yes, a giant danio would be insane in a 45g. I was actually meaning Blue Danios not Giant Danios, but I always get them mixed up.🤦‍♀️
  7. I have definitely heard of root tabs causing ammonia/nitrate spikes in the past. How deeply did you bury the root tabs in the substrate? Sometimes, if you don't bury them deeply enough, the nutrients inside will leak out more quickly into the water column and cause spikes.
  8. Two of my female swordtails are ganging up on the third. There has been no serious damage so far, but I have had to start feeding her separately because they are chasing her away from the food. They are all in a heavily planted 45g cube with 1 male swordtail and about two dozen Amano Shrimp. I was thinking of doing zebra or giant danios, but I was wondering if anyone else had better ideas. I would prefer something that would leave my shrimp alone, but I'm open to any suggestions.
  9. I brought 6 Julii Corydoras home from my LFS yesterday, put them into quarantine, and fed them live bloodworms hoping to fatten them up before medicating. One had what I thought was an injured Pectoral fin and possible injury to his swim bladder. I put him into a separate nursery tank I was preparing that had already been medicated with Methylene Blue, hoping to prevent infection. This morning he had passed away, and I noticed that a few of the other Corys now had large portions of their fins missing and fraying. Other than the damaged fins, I have not seen any signs of the remaining 5 acting unusual. They are resting together in their shoal and traveling up to the top of the tank for air. I am guessing this is fin rot, but I have never dealt with this before with my livebearers. The picture I added is the one who seems to be in the worst shape. His entire tailfin has completely frayed away. I have added aquarium salt to their tank at half the usual dose; although, I know there is conflicting information about how sensitive to it corys really are. On hand, I have the Quarantine Trio, Methylene Blue, API Aquarium Salt and Malachite Green. In the past, I have known people to use Maracyn 2 for Fin rot, but I can't find it anywhere at a reasonable price or that could be shipped to me in time. Will regular Maracyn work? Should I go get Malefix from Petco? Water Parameters: pH: 7.2 Nitrates: ~15 ppm Hardness: ~200 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Ammonia: 0 ppm KH/Buffer: ~40 ppm Water Temperature: 79.1F
×
×
  • Create New...