Lucyn

If you check their social blade which gets a median of all their monthly subscriber gains into a solid number, and using that number they should get it around Jan, 2025. They do get random months with 20k subs though. With a million around the corner, it could be one of those snowball rolling down a mountain kinda things.

Awesome tanks, canopies really bring nice looking tanks all together

It's always a good day when you get a Aquarium Co-Op order 🙂

I think the most common rule of thumb is 14 days. The longest I've EVER seen or heard of anything laying dormant is 13 days with Ich. Some extremist breeders say a month, but the odds of something being dormant for more than 14 days are insanely low, it's because you missed it and they got reinfected. That's why it's important to really pay attention, 2 little spots of ich can go away, then come back with 100's a week later once they're breeding cycle is back at the infection stage. Obviously the longer, the safer, but 14 days are more than good enough for me. I'd say. A lot of fish stores do 7 days because they need to get fish out on the floor and 99% of them never get sick after that 7 days, very subjective topic. And just to clarify, if they do get sick and you cured them, then that's when you'd start the 14 days after the first sign of being healthy again.

It's totally normal, I talked to support and they said their's do it as well. I have it in my bedroom with little to zero background noise so I hear it really well. It makes a high-pitched sound when it's actively heating. I have a degree in electromechanical technology and when a lot of power is put across resistors, heating coils, or inductors it can make a high-pitched sound. Any of those three things that heating elements commonly use get an insane amount of power sent across them for what they actually are. For reference, the average LED bulb in your house nowadays uses around 5 watts and 20 of those bulbs worth of energy are put across a component that's smaller than your thumb. There are ways to negate the noise and I'm sure when further iterations of the aquarium co-op heater come out, it will get implemented as it gets better. I have noticed with time the sound has gotten noticeably much more quiet.

I personally keep Cardinals with my Sterbai's and they never touch the eggs. I'm sure a lot of Rasboras like Harlequins would work well too, stuff that never sifts the gravel and sits in the water column that only eats falling food. I've never tried it, but I'm sure most hatchet fish would work great considering they're always on top of the water.

I swear, if you could break a tracking number, Aquarium Co-Op's would be toast! 🤣

Personally, I try to keep it between 1-2 PPM. Keeping it a higher PPM is virtually pointless to me, because eventually that's all just going to get converted to nitrates which would be required to water change out at that point. Once all of that Ammonia has turned to nitrites, keep the same dosage of whatever you were applying. At that point in the cycle you shouldn't be reading any Ammonia and strictly nitrites, or you'll just keep increasing the bio-load in a never ending cycle, literally 😆Goodluck!

The first thing I think of when you describe a white patch on the head is the disease "hole in the head". It usually occurs because of parameter problem in the aquarium and some fish are more sensitive to those toxic parameters, even if other fish show no signs of discomfort. It could be a nip from a fish, sometimes fish bruising can turn white. Keep that water very clean, the more water changes the better. I'd increase either your volume or frequency of water changes temporarily, if it doesn't get better within a few days I'd start treatment with your go to bacterial disease treatment or light amounts of salt.