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Everything posted by Bobbie

  1. In my experience, it’s probably gonna be fine to just put some fish food in on the day you leave and ask the sitter to add a wee bit of food (maybe a small spoonful) every 3 or 4 days while you’re gone - it worked for me.
  2. Mine do the same. I don’t think they’re completely blind, but they likely don’t have particularly good eyesight and will rely on other senses to find food - it’s probably the same for all corydoras, but the albino gene just makes it worse.
  3. If you want a very large corycat you could do a brochis, they’re not true corydoras but look like them - they’re expensive and need a large tank, though. If you want a true corydora then I’ve heard that the banded cory is one of the largest - also somewhat expensive, though. The albino/bronze corydora also gets on the larger side, and is pretty cheap & hardy.
  4. I’m not sure if this’ll be any help, but my zebra danios always become very sluggish when I medicate them with a mixture of melafix and API white spot cure - the white spot cure is the one that they react to, I believe, since I never see a behaviour change when I only put melafix in the tank. Maybe there’s an ingredient that they’re reacting badly to? Idk though, I’ve never seen anyone else discuss it.
  5. Hi, so I was looking at a local aquatics shop earlier and noticed they sold kuhli loaches - but the species name was Pangio Semicincta, rather than the Pangio Kuhlii that I usually see mentioned. I was curious and did some googling, and I read that most of the p. kuhlii commonly found in aquariums are actually mislabelled p. semicincta. Is this true? Or is the species that my local shop sells something completely different? Just wanna know in case I decide to buy some in the future, because I’d hate to end up with some random species that I’ve no idea how to care for.
  6. What does he normally eat? He could be constipated - I’ve heard that daphnia is good to clear the stomach, if you’ve got access to some. When you say the water and temperature are good, what specifically are the numbers? Do you know if they’ve changed at all, or have they stayed the same? The photo in your signature looks like he has finrot, or maybe too strong a flow is tearing his fins - is that what he looks like now? Or has he changed appearance since that photo was taken? Does he share a tank with other animals? Live plants or artificial ones?
  7. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/hydra
  8. Nice! I love hitchhiking snails - super useful wee pals and if they populate too much you can always toss a few assassin snails in to keep the numbers low
  9. It depends. How big is the community tank? Is it heavily planted? How hard is the water, and what temperature is it at?
  10. If you wanna put a betta in a community setting it’s strongly recommended that you make the tank heavily planted and put the community fish in at least a few months before the betta, if the betta goes in first or before the community is settled then he’s more likely to get territorial. I’ve got my male betta in with zebra danios but I think I got lucky, because a lot of people say that danios are some of the worst fish to go with bettas. Corydoras are excellent companions for bettas, since they stay down low and don’t look anything like a betta and are super chill. You could also look at small loaches, so long as they can handle the temperature. Maybe a large group of small fish, like green neon tetras? If there’s loads of fish swimming tightly together, the betta can’t really pick on any specific individual. A 29g would be a mansion for a betta and your boy would love it, so long as it’s set up correctly. Decide if you want this to be a community tank that just happens to have a betta, or if it’s a betta tank with some extra fish. Just make sure to have a backup plan in case things go wrong and you need to separate the group. Another option would be to put the pea puffers in the 29g. Still plant it heavily, but you could add more puffers and make it a beautiful species-only planted tank. Might also be less stressful on the betta, because I know they sometimes don’t adapt well to larger tanks and community settings if they’ve always been alone in a small tank. Oh! If the 29g is currently empty, and you wanted a second betta, you could put a solid divider in the middle of the tank and make it into two 14 gallon spaces. There’s obviously disease-related risks involved with using the same water for multiple tanks, but some people do it with no problems.
  11. I know Maidenhead Aquatics sells a variety of tanks, but they’re very spendy considering how small a lot of them are. Does anyone know good places to get good quality 80-200 litre (20-50 gallon) tanks in the UK, and where to buy stands for them? From what I’ve seen online, it almost seems as if the US has a much larger selection of tanks that are easily available for pretty cheap - is that true, or am I missing something? If I wanted to get a 50 long, for example (how I wish I had the space for one), would I have to get it custom made? Just asking because I’ve been trying to decide how big I wanna go for my largest tank, but I was doing the math and a 40 gallon & basic equipment would cost me at least £700 just to set up. That sounds ridiculously expensive to me.
  12. No problem! You could possibly look at black tiger darios? I’ve been thinking of getting them in the future, they’re small but look rather interesting
  13. I found this article when I googled their name, 150 litres is roughly 40 gallons I believe
  14. I think you’ll be fine numbers-wise, 16 fish in a heavily planted 26 gallon doesn’t seem like all that much to me. I’d suggest letting the plants go in first (give them a wee while to settle in), add some snails to keep the algae down, and add the fish in small numbers - maybe the corydoras first and then add the rainbow shiners. If you want a lidless tank I’d strongly suggest using floating plants. I’ve got 13 fish in a planted 15 gallon and everything is going well, I only do a water change every 10 days or so and never have issues with the parameters - but it took over a year of work to get it to this point.
  15. I have 2 assassin snails in my 15g. Had to get them because I had nearly 100 pest snails, and while they’ve kept the population in check (I’ve maybe got an average of 20 snails at any one time now) they certainly haven’t wiped out the group. I went for the assassin snails because I heard that they wouldn’t completely eliminate the snail population so long as I only had a handful of them.
  16. They’re very pretty! I’ve no mollies at the moment but am hoping to buy some for breeding next year
  17. It’s probably a mix of reduced feedings (the weak and young die off) and short lifespans - I’ve got a load of pest snails in my tank and they never last more than a few months
  18. I’ve never seen any eggs from my assassin snails, but it’d be super cool if those are their eggs! Good luck hatching them.
  19. Hi y’all, so I need some advice. I have a fully planted 15g community tank and an empty 6g quarantine tank in my bedroom, but I’ll be redecorating & rearranging the room at some point in the next few months and I’m not sure how I’ll safely move the fish to another room while the work is done. We don’t have a garage or a spare room or a shed, so I’m not sure yet where I’ll be putting the tanks yet - that’s an issue for later. How would I go about emptying and transporting the tanks without causing any damage to the plants or fish? The quarantine tank will hopefully remain empty, so my biggest concern is the community tank. • Do I buy large buckets and place all of the fish, water, plants & equipment in them? • Do I risk moving the tank with the substrate in it or should it be stripped bare? • Do I keep all of the fish together or have a bucket for each species? The betta could probably go into the 6g, but I’m unsure about what to do with the danios & corycats. • If I’m placing the fish into multiple buckets or tubs, I suppose I’ll need to have filters (or even just air stones?) for each bucket - should I buy & establish those filters now? I’d probably get away with leaving the zebrafish without a heater for a few days, if they’re in a warm room.
  20. I’d suggest avoiding melafix for bettas, I’m not sure the specifics but I’ve heard it can cause issues for their labyrinth organ. What country are you in? That’ll help us offer you the correct medications, because different places have access to different things.
  21. You’ve got a low PH, but what’s your GH and KH? PH changes often, but the GH will decide how hard your water is - bettas like soft water. And yes, a plant like philodendron with roots in the water will very quickly suck up all the nutrients. Do you ever have algae growth?
  22. Yeah, detritus worms are usually your friend - they clean the tank and fish eat them
  23. I’m sure someone else will pitch in if I’ve got any of this wrong, but here are long & short explanations. This may have gotten a wee bit long, oops. When an aquarium is fully cycled it typically has a lot of algae growth, which is a sign that it can support life. The more light and nutrients are in the water, the more algae will grow - but some plants grow much slower than others (algae is a fast growing plant while anubias is slow growing) and how fast they grow will decide how quickly they use up the nutrients available (nitrates) so if there’s too much light the slow growing plant will be overwhelmed by the algae. Basically if the tank isn’t producing nitrates yet (which is the last step of the nitrogen cycle) then the plants can’t grow, and if there’s too much light the algae will grow faster than the plants can. Plants covered in algae can’t get any light and will slowly die off. A lot of aquarium plants are grown outside of the water, so when you first plant them in water they lose a lot of their leaves and kinda look like they’re dying for a few weeks - this is normal; the plant is simply adjusting to the new environment. Once the plant has settled into the aquarium, the root system will start growing and you’ll see loads of new leaves growing. Some plants, like anubias, will occasionally grow flowers. Cryptocorynes are notorious for seeming to completely die when they’re moved, but they always grow back so long as the root system is left untouched. Plants that have a growing root system will have new leaves and will be growing, it just takes a few weeks for it to start when they’re first added to the aquarium.
  24. Bobbie


    Does it mean teaspoon or tablespoon? And what size tank do you have - I take it it’s a nano tank? 1 tablespoon is the same as 3 teaspoons.
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