Scott C

They will be fine, if you feed me steak and lobster or similar high end foods for weeks then offer me McDonalds I'd refuse it also, let me get hungry for a day or 2 and i'd gladly accept McDonalds, same with fish. I'm sure you could condition them to eat almost anything after a couple days without food, they will survive, remember to under feed rather than over feed especially during transition or vacation.

sorry for your pet emergency. In my experience goldfish aren't the smartest, 😝, i'm not sure covering it will guarantee no more problems, that being said, it wouldn't actually add much weight to cover with larger rock, new rock will displace water. Personally, I wouldn't be too concerned about a re-occurrence, hopefully they learn as i'm sure they would in nature, but if you wanted to be 100% sure, for peace of mind, i'd remove the substrate, depending on the size of the tank, a small dustpan works great, if it's smaller a kiddie sandbox shovel.

Just double check that the bulkhead itself is clean of any debris or casting marks where it meets the gasket as well as clean tank where the gasket meets it, make sure the gasket is on the inside of the tank not the outside (Brain fart). If it still leaks no matter what, i think i'd do the same as your thinking and put a thin coat of silicone on each side of the gasket and let it cure, not knowing the underlying reason.

thanks so much for the feedback, i really do appreciate it

I am in the process of growing my Orange Neocaridinia shrimp colony (in a 55 gallon planted aquarium) and currently only have a few adolescent bristle-nose plecos and 3 golden mystery snails, I'd love to get a group of nano schooling fish to compliment the mid to upper tank that is almost unused currently. My initial thoughts were a bunch of Green Neon Rasbora (Microdevario kubotai) I love the look and think they could cohabitate well. Does anyone have experience keeping these together, will the rasbora be able and actively eat shrimpletts? Anyone have other ideas, experience, suggestions?

I agree also

i agree

Sunburst Wag Platty are my favorite

Personally I think 3" is too big, but you could always slice it in half (the long way) after you cut it to length and get two arched caves (open to the substrate at the bottom). it depends on the size of the fish, my large female is quite large by bristle nose standards (just over 5") and she can fit in the opening of those watering spikes which are only about 2" diameter.

ok, so would you suggest I do anything different than have them meet on neutral ground?

I agree, BriannesFishFarm, my male looses a lot of weight sitting on eggs, if your going to let the male sit on them it might be a good idea separating the male after a spawn hatches to let him bulk back up or alternate the female between 2 males, my last spawn I pulled the eggs about 12 hours after they were laid and they are doing great so far. They are in a community tank and cichlids pester the heck out of dad and the eggs and the last batch was good size but only had like 10 hatch and like 5 survive (they were all moved to a separate tank). So trying the egg tumbler this go around, hopefully it makes it easier on dad and we get more hatching and surviving.

Brianne, were are you located?, if others in your area on the forum may be willing to share the expense/ fish with you.

might have a ball/ gate valve on the drain into the tank that is used to control flow rate based on how fast your pump is sending the water into the tank, there is going to be an initial balance to find depending on the overflow style (Durso, Herbie, or Bean Animal Overflows). many diagrams online that can explain better than i can in text.

I've tried to breed crayfish a few times now and have not been successful at all, this tank is well established, i fed them well, water parameters are all good, both were similar in size. -my first attempt the male cray in the picture beat up the female and ripped a couple of her legs off. I separated her and let her heal up and molt and the legs came back and still waited a few more weeks for her to harden up and get really healthy, put them back together and a few weeks later he attacked her again and pulled almost all of her legs off and she didn't make it. -i figure maybe he is just a murderous jerk or something so i purchased a 2nd young pair to hopefully grow up together and they grew well and got to be about breeding size and then one looks like it died after a molt, no missing limbs, just looked like a purplish fresh cray molt in the fetal position all curled up dead. My only thought, researching after the fact, was possibly a bad molt and i might need to add more calcium then I had been. -I have read about these quite a bit online but finding limited information about actually breeding them, curious if anyone here has first hand experience breeding these and any observations/ suggestions. Thanks.

pregnant, the dark/translucent spot lower rear part of her body/belly is eggs. as others have said, decent water quality+male guppy+female guppy = babies. They very well could eat the babies once they come out or she could drop them too early if stressed. Either way if you want to keep the baby fry ad some cover in the breeder box, it will help calm mom and give the fry cover to hide. once they drop get mom out to increase the chances of survival.

my plecos have successfully bred in a arch of a rock (before I provided them an actual cave). I have since provided them various options and they seem willing to use just about anything. they do seem to prefer to have a back to the cave and not just a pipe. Another relatively inexpensive option my wife came up with is using watering stakes; https://www.amazon.com/Plant-Watering-Stakes-Automatic-Terracotta/dp/B07M8WKZDZ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=watering+spikes&qid=1624020727&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTUgzQzZZQTlVNjhEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzc4MjExMUNJVjFXWUFITU1DUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzkyNjAwMVdESzFCR0czU1VLRiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= they are very similar to "pleco caves" and you can pickup 6 for about $18 on amazon, it may be possible to get 1-2 at local stores even cheaper. Even my large female bristlenose (who I swear is wider than the spike itself finds a way to fit in there). Picture is of one of my young males hanging out in a spike. I think they look a lot nicer than white PVC.

"Nature Will Find A Way" I found a cichlid fry in my overflow chamber a couple months ago, no idea how long he was living in there. He is now 10x as large and the fearless king of his 10 gallon grow out tank, will almost eat out of our hands.

the mesh appears to be super fine, is the air actually passing through the mesh or just just collecting underneath? might need to consider something more porous to let more movement through? I'm currently using an egg tumbler from amazon for my Bristlenose Pleco eggs and it works pretty well, i'm happy with it so far, was like $12. Ill update with how the eggs turn out.

I agree with most everything suggested above, If you want to add some more mid to high level small fish go for it, if you love the corys and want them to be the focus go with more of them. Plants help offset the bioload of the fish, but even without plants a super crowded tank can be maintained healthily by doing regular water changes.

I've had success with HOB in many different arrangements, as long as it's sized appropriately for the tank, I prefer sponge filters now, but totally understand the water movement advantages of the HOB. I have even mounted an over-sized HOB on the side of a 15 gallon and plumbed the intake under gravel to the other end to create a "Flowing Stream" from right to left, worked well but became complicated to clean because I kept the pickup hidden low behind plastic plants. But I would totally do it again with some minor improvements. With 1 HOB and 2 Sponge I don't think there is a wrong place to put it, where ever it creates the flow you want and or wherever it is aesthetically pleasing to you.

Thanks, Czar, Ill look into them also, let me know how it goes. Are you hoping to breed both simultaneously or just keep?

+1 like others have said, move as much as you can from existing tanks (even if it's just temporary) move over your HOB (if you can) if that's whats currently running and put your Sponge Filter in the established tank, gravel, plants, all help. I do also bring over a decent amount of established water.

Should be fine in my opinion, it will take the water a while to "Heat Soak" /balance out with the room temperature, 5 degrees differential should be totally fine. Also be aware when you get back not to bring the temperature back up too fast, that could be just as dangerous. Depending on the size of your heater and size of your tank (small heater/ big tank will take a while to bring it back up anyway, but a large heater in a smaller tank might bring the temp up too quick and you might want to step the temp back up gradually)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SBK5SU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've used this successfully for years now, cheep, nothing special works great, i have a diy sump and use this as the fist stage of mechanical filtration to catch the large debris before the water enters the biological filtration (Floss mat, Lava Rock, Bio Blocks). I will usually cut a couple layers to fit and change them out when they start to get debris build up or restrict flow at all. mine comes in a sheet, difficult to tell if the one you show is a sheet or just fill, in which case you may need a container or mesh to direct flow through it, hope this helps

Hi From Central Florida, My Profile Lists my tanks, Huge Fan of Aquarium Coop videos and products. Looking to expand my knowledge and willing to share my personal experiences if they can help others in the hobby. My 3 biggest areas of interest right now are; -information on successfully breeding crayfish (i've had 2 failed attempts so far) -opinions or experience keeping small schooling fish with breeding shrimp (Neocardinia), was thinking maybe Kubotai Rasbora. -factual first hand experience keeping/ breeding Red Racer Nerite Snails.