colo3000

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Once it's dead, it should start to disintegrate and release from the sponge. Inverts and herbivores like to eat the dead stuff as well.

Deep cleaning the tank and tank decorations most likely only resulted in you removing any beneficial bacteria that was helping your fish. In your post it didn't look like you mentioned doing any water changes. 3 gallons is on the small side for a betta, and adding the plecos is definitely going to make the situation worse. If you do not know about the nitrogen cycle, read this article. You should buy a water test kit as well so you can determine whether the water quality is good or not. Placing it in a tiny bowl like that to "quarantine" it also does way more harm than good. Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels will rise much faster, hurting your betta more. When your betta is the only fish in an already small tank, there is no reason to take it out and quarantine it.

Macronutrients and micronutrients are named this way because plants require far less iron (micronutrient) for example than nitrogen or phosphorus (macronutrients). It's not that macronutrients are required and micronutrients are optional. Both are required for a plant's processes. It is just the amount that plants require that separates the two.

Looks like a fungal or bacterial infection. People will often use aquarium salt in a hospital tank as a first step to treat these types of infections. Here's an Aquarium Coop article on treating fish with salt. Corydoras are scaleless and more sensitive to salt, so be careful not to dose too much. Salt will kill aquarium plants, so make sure you use a hospital tank.

I haven't heard of anyone experiencing a pH swing due to Ich-X, including myself. Are you sure that a pH swing didn't occur prior to treatment? A pH swing can weaken your fish's immune systems and make them more susceptible to contracting Ich in the first place.

The instructions are on the bottle. If you follow the instructions for dosing and water changes, you should be able to cure it fairly quickly. Here is an Aquarium Coop article with the instructions: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/how-to-treat-ich-on-freshwater-fish#:~:text=What is the Best Ich Treatment%3F

Raising the temperature without medicating will only make it much worse, unless you raise it to above 86 degrees Fahrenheit (and even then it may not work), which in my opinion just puts extra stress on the fish. If the temperature is below that mark, you are just increasing the ich's metabolism meaning it will grow and reproduce faster. I recommend you keep the tank at its normal temperature until you're able to get Ich-X or another Ich medication. Ich-X has worked every single time I have used it and it is safe for plants and invertebrates.

I'm not sure how much experience you have with treating Ich. I personally treat Ich with Ich-X. You can also raise the temperature of your aquarium to accelerate the life cycle of the ich, but it isn't necessary. If you do decide to raise the temperature, you must also be treating with medication or else the ich will just reproduce faster. If you have any questions feel free to ask and I'll give you my advice.

This could be ick or velvet disease. Sometimes it's hard to be sure through pictures. Have you looked up pictures of these diseases on clown loaches and compared?

You may find more help in a 3D printing forum or subreddit if you haven't posted there already. It seems like the printer is either under-extruding at those specific heights or a slight "layer-shift" is occurring. Past that I don't have much advice to give.

That would likely cause backpressure that the pump wasn't designed for, which can damage or shorten the lifespan of your pump.

It looks like biofilm with marks from a snail or some kind of sucker fish running through it.

You will want to have it running to ensure your beneficial bacteria has adequate flow. If your sponge filter has an adjustable airstone, you may be able to at least adjust the bubble size.

I'm not really sure what you're trying to say. When you do a water change, you siphon water off and then you are supposed to replace the water with new dechlorinated water. The water level in your tank should always be full. You also should not need to siphon water twice daily. If doing daily water changes, do 20% water changes, meaning you take 20% of the water out of the tank and replace it with new, dechlorinated water. The less water in your tank, the higher concentration of ammonia that is going to be in your (assuming from your last post) uncycled tank. This is why you always need to replace the water you siphon off. I'd like to add, you may want to add a filter sponge to the intake of your power head to give the beneficial bacteria somewhere to reside.

What other fish have you been keeping with this fish and the cories?

When I cycled my tank, I was dosing beneficial bacteria into a fishless tank for 2 days, and then began adding fish while still dosing beneficial bacteria and doing water changes. My tank was cycled in about 2 weeks and ammonia levels were always very low during the process before going to 0.

Although excess copper is toxic to invertebrates, invertebrates need a small amount of copper in their diet to live. I can't 100% say that your algae wafers are safe, but most well known brands contain the correct amount to not be toxic to inverts.

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"Saving" fish from large chains isn't necessarily as good as it seems on the surface. In the end, you're showing the company that there is more demand for the fish you're buying, in turn leading to the increase of fish being mistreated by the company, since the companies will increase their orders of these fish. Tetras can sometimes be less hardy than other fish, which is further made worse by the breeding practices, feeding practices (many fish are starved when being shipped from supplier to store), or diseases due to the poor conditions these suppliers maintain. Since the fish is so popular, the suppliers are focused on quantity over quality, especially those that supply chain stores. It can be hard to pinpoint any one cause of your tetras dying, but quarantining with the med trio, feeding well, and maintaining pristine water conditions will help the survival rate of your fish. In the end, the fish itself has been set up to fail by these suppliers and their deaths are often not the fishkeeper's fault.

Hey guys, I'm a college student and will be moving back home for the summer to take part in an internship near my parents' house. I will also be needing to move my 29 gallon tank and tank inhabitants down there as well. I want to have a smaller tank established there beforehand, just so that I have somewhere to move my fish while the 29 gallon is being moved and setup, and if there are unforeseen issues with the 29 gallon (really hoping it goes smoothly). Next week I will be visiting my parents' house and setting up a 10 gallon tank there, so I can give it a couple months to establish before the summer. I don't want to put any fish in it because I don't want my parents to have to manage it much. I'd like to introduce some snails to it to keep some sort of bioload going in it (plus it's just a bummer to have a tank running with nothing in it to look at). All that to say, what type of snails should I add to the tank?

Pea puffers aren't really built for speed, which in my experience, a lot of the time when a fish injures itself on its environment it's due to it being startled and quickly trying to navigate through its environment. Bettas are different, in that they have long flowy fins that can get caught on certain things in their environment. Neither of these are the case with pea puffers, and as a bonus they are also fairly intelligent and compact, which would aid them in avoiding injuries like that. Overall I'd say you should be completely fine.

You could probably get away with your stocking list, just keep in mind you'll need to be more attentive to water changes and monitoring water quality, and you will want to observe the behavior of your fish for stressed behaviors. Betta personalities can vary and some may get more stressed than others if they're not happy with the amount of personal space they have. If you go for Corydoras I would recommend choosing pygmies, as they're quite small. So that'd be 5-6 Pygmies, 5-6 Neons, a Betta, and your snails.

Corydoras are a shoaling species and many fish keepers recommend a minimum of 5-6. It sounds like your tank may be on the small side for the amount of fish you're looking to stock. How many neons are you planning to stock? I'd personally upgrade to a 20 long.

Both crushed coral and aragonite are forms of Calcium Carbonate. I have crushed coral in a filter media bag in my HOB filter. I would avoid the very fine grain aragonite if you're looking to put it in a filter media bag. The amount you add is more up to the space you have in your filter if you're using a HOB, I have a small bag that holds about a half cup to a cup of crushed coral if I had to guess, for my 29 gallon.