tonyjuliano

This…

Located these… Early generation HOB… Siphon fed intake, needs air for return, so this air pump… Both items are period appropriate (early 1970’s). I’m thinking of just utilizing for “cosmetic” purposes. Both will be backed up with modern equipment, which will be hidden away.

Bunsen burner… 🤫 Don’t tell my insurance company.

I want to replace it with low iron glass. Also, need to add a pane to the bottom. Modern silicone doesn’t adhere to slate sufficiently. Tank was originally sealed with asphalt derivative, like most metaframe tanks were, and I don’t trust it, even though it currently seems to hold water.

Made a nice little score on Craigslist today… Vintage, slate-bottom metaframe aquarium - 30 gallons - with original stand, for 20 bucks! Its a little rough, and is going to need a complete overhaul, but it’s pretty much a carbon copy of the first tank I ever owned as a kid (mine was only 10 gals. though). It actually holds water and doesn’t leak, but I’m going to replace all the glass anyway. It will be easier to clean up the frame this way. Planning on using it for a Betta Sorority based tank, with as much “period appropriate” stuff that I can find.

@SarahO?

Not in my experience.

Both rainbow shiners and white clouds are primarily cold water species that enjoy moderate current levels, and relatively hard water. Betta’s prefer warm, still & soft water, so it not a choice I would make.

It’s simply this. If you think that growing healthy plants in a freshwater environment is challenging, it’s more challenging growing healthy live corals. Lighting is important in a planted fresh water tank, but infinitely more crucial in marine. If maintaining water chemistry is complicated on the freshwater side, it’s more complex with a marine environment. If fish choices are difficult, the same applies. There are just so many more variables to stay on top if in the saltwater world, and many “tight” requirements. And then of course, there are the dollars involved. More equipments is required, and that dedicated equipment is more expensive. Everything is more expensive, the corals, the fish, the chemistry, just everything. But if you are looking for a challenge, and have the requisite time and desire to devote to it, then it can be very rewarding too.

Just like all other aerobic organisms, normal cellular function, is a pretty big “use”. From the first paragraph of THIS , peer reviewed scientific paper… ”Aerobic bacteria require oxygen for survival.” ”The obligate aerobes that compulsorily require oxygen for deriving energy, growth, reproduction, and cellular respiration. These organisms do not survive in the absence of oxygen”

Ok, let’s clear up some things… First, what is your source of ammonia for the attempted fish-less cycle? Second, what is the actual ammonia reading, and what method are you using to measure it. The dark stained water is from tannins being contributed by the piece of wood, did you boil it before placement? In any case, this will not affect the cycling, or lack there of. As for the frogbit, it’s not “getting fried”, but is showing signs of potassium deficiency, very common.

Not directly. What I mean is this… They will affect the water chemistry itself, but not the reading on the strip.

I’m going to restate my objection to the wisdom of this approach, but not belabor the point. My whole assertion was more to do with its effectiveness and the possibility of interrupting the normal nitrification process. But you can also cause harm, due to oxygen deprivation, by “over-dosing” with Prime. Even Seachem states this… https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001450473-FAQ-Is-it-possible-to-overdose-Seachem-Prime-

Starved of a food source (ammonia in this case) for a year, not deprived of oxygen. Most organisms (humans included) can survive an extended period of time without nutrition. But very few can survive without oxygen, aerobic bacteria included.

I’ve seen this before when there is a layer of biofilm on the surface. Snails love that stuff.