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firstname-lastname

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Everything posted by firstname-lastname

  1. Above is a clump of gravel that I removed from my tank last week after noticing a white spot on the susbtrate. It didn't have any noticeable smell, even after I broke it apart to see if there was anything inside. I broke it apart completely but made sure to put all the gravel back in one spot to see if it would recombine like a sponge allegedly would. It appears to have done so. Does anyone know what this might be if not a sponge?
  2. Hello all, I have a bristlenose pleco that is being a bit of a problem child. He (he is starting to grow his bristles) is getting aggressive with my bronze corydoras. He usually chases them when I feed the tank, but as soon as he starts eating he stops caring so much that they can even eat the algae wafer that's in his mouth. He also puffs his spikes out and chases them when I put in some zucchini for him, which the corys show zero interest in. I've been noticing a few split fins in my corys, and I have had one in a hospital tank recovering from an eye injury/infection and fin rot which I now think I can blame on the pleco. Has anyone else experienced such aggression from a BN, and do you guys think I might just be a puberty thing (like I said, he's just started growing in his bristles) and he'll settle down soon?
  3. Based on a livebearer story
  4. Yeah I really should get some testers, but the LFS is on the same water grid as me and should have pretty similar parameters unless they use RO water for all of their tanks or something. Is it possible that she died from childbirth, as I just spotted a fry in my tank this morning?
  5. Sadly, she passed away. I will keep the rest in quarantine for a while (I was planning on it anyway as one of them was so small I think she'd get eaten by tankmates)
  6. Hi all, yesterday I got some endlers (my first livebearers) however I noticed today one of the females is twitching on the bottom of the tank. The parameters are 0s across the board for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate as the quarantine tank was re-established (with filter from another tank) yesterday prior to getting the endlers. I did check to make sure though. I don't have a pH or hardness kit at the moment but it's usually 7.4pH out of the tap and hard (lids get very crusty with calcium). I have attached pictures of the fish in question but I can't see anything other than it being a bit darker than the other females. Any idea if this is just due to the stress of moving to a new home, or there might be some diseases in these fish. Thanks in advance
  7. My LFS is about 5-10 minutes drive from home, but also a 30 minute round trip on the bus from work so I can go during lunch to grab things like ferts if I need. Super convenient
  8. 10 gallon with 5 rosy tetras. A good friend was moving away around november last year and it wasn't practical for them to take the fish with them. I was entrusted with them and I tried my best as I learned the ropes of the hobby. Three of the originals are in my new tank.
  9. I wouldn't worry too much about hydrostatic water pressure unless you're putting them in absolutely massive tanks. Atmospheric pressure at sea level is 101.3kPa, and you'll only add 9.81kPa for every meter of water below the surface. My gut says that they spawn/grow out in shallow waters to avoid predation from larger fish, or maybe the presence of more micro foods like insect larvae. In saying all of that, I've never bred fish so I'm not sure what my two cents are worth.
  10. This might not be a very useful suggestion, but surely anything you can catch locally would be okay in your climate? Find out what is native to your region (and legal to catch) and see if there's anything cool looking
  11. I think that's just another name for Malaysian trumpet snails, which that looks like
  12. If you mean the glass test vials, then yes the cap always leaks when you shake them and it's infuriating. If you mean the actual drop bottle the chemicals come in then no, that's not normal.
  13. It might help to strip down the filter so we can see what -if anything- is actually damaged. I don't know the anatomy of the eheim canisters but it might just be the impeller which is damaged - as running it dry means no coling or lubrication - which should be easy to replace. It might also scorch the impeller housing so it would be good to check that also.
  14. I don't know about potassium because I haven't tested it, but for nitrogen flourish I dose double/triple their recommended amount to get my nitrates to read above 5-10ppm. Their recommended dosing is quite low to make it almost impossible to cause harm by following their instructions.
  15. Hi, I'm struggling with my plants so take what I say with a grain of salt, but Flourish doesn't contain nitrogen, phosphate or potassium so you might have a deficiency in those macronutrients, although they do sell separate bottles for that. Easy Green has all of those nutrients in it too. Here is a guide to nutrient deficiencies As for getting them to not float, I've got no help with that because mine are absolute terrorists. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/plant-nutrient-deficiencies
  16. Flourish potassium is good for adding only potassium
  17. The API kit is notoriously hard to tell the difference between 0 and 0.25ppm depending on the lighting. If you have 0 nitrites and you're making nitrates, I'm going to go out on a limb and say you might not have ammonia apart from briefly after a water change
  18. Today I noticed that one of my rosy tetras has a cloudy and slightly swollen left eye. It stands out (no pun intended) a lot more on camera. I did a decent amount of maintenance yesterday so it's possible I upset him and he swam into something, considering it's just one eye. Do you guys think I should continue to just monitor him, or put him in quarantine which might stress him if he's by himself? Thanks in advance.
  19. I've read that Java ferns can go brackish, although I haven't personally tried it due to a lack of brackish tank.
  20. I know there are a lot of opinions on what people should do for quarantining new fish such as the med trio for a week vs no meds but quarantine them for 6 weeks etc, but I'm interested to see what you guys actually do. Personally my old 10 US gallon tank has become my quarantine tank so it's got gravel substrate and a plant left in it, as well as a decoration they can hide behind but still be observable. The last two times I've given into temptation and only left the new fish in there a week if they're all eating and looking healthy. I also don't medicate fish unless there are signs of illness. So what do you guys do and why, and how has it worked for you?
  21. I use a 100 litre wheelie bin to do my water changes into now, as otherwise I'd drown plants on water change days and they didn't get watered again all week, which wasnt great for peace lillies. Now it all goes into the bin and I just stir up the filth whenever I want to water things throughout the week
  22. Pipes between tank and sump + sump overflow drain + auto water change, plus holes to route cables for heater, sump pump, protein skimmer and whatever other gizmos saltwater people use. Seems like a pretty cool setup
  23. I'd do tiger barbs last as they can be a bit aggressive and very nippy from my secondhand experience. If you added corydoras to the tiger barbs I imagine they'd get pretty stressed from being added to a new tank and immediately getting picked on.
  24. From my experience with tetras, 6 may not be enough for them to feel comfortable in such a large tank, I think it's not just school size that matters but also density. When I upgraded to my current tank (a bit over 40 US gallons) the five tetras were very skittish and hid at the back of the tank behind plants. I got 10 more, and now they are all very comfortable. I would aim for schools of 10 or more for each tetra type and see if that works.
  25. I'd recommend also dropping the water level in the mean time if that's feasbile with your tank. The total force on the glass is proportional to the square of the water height, so for example if you remove a quarter of the water you'll have almost halved the force (down to 56.25% from full) on the glass, as well as lowering the centre of pressure from a third of the way up the tank to a quarter of the way up the panel.
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