Qsilver7850

After leaving it for a few days the temp seems to have stabilized around 64° in the 40 gallon. I might get a heater for it anyway to bump it up to 66° or so. Also, the shrimp tank is now at 69/70°. I had to run an extension cord from an outlet in the ceiling but it works.

Thanks nabokovfan, those are some interesting articles. As Sleepy said, I'm going to see if my equipment keeps the tank at least 64. If not would a 75 watt heater be enough to raise the couple degrees? I'm trying to just use what I have on hand. Also seems like the shrimp would benefit from a heater but I'm literally out of outlets.

That's been my thought too, that presumably it will warm up a bit with a lid and the HOB. Oh really? I thought cherries were good down to the mid-fifties. And I thought 72 was just a general temp for fish. I was reading that white clouds specifically have shortened lifespans if they're kept above 72. I'd be interested in any articles you have to share!

I've got a 40 Gallon Breeder with 12 gold barbs, 3 zebra danios, and 4 white clouds. I've taken out a variety of other fish and rehomed them so I can do a cold water tank. The tank is in my basement and my open top ten gallon shrimp tank nearby gets to about 61-62 degrees. Is that an okay temperature for the 40 gallon? I've done a bunch of research on the three species that are in there and I get conflicting specifics about the temp.

I ended up buying an original Stingray for the tank. MUCH more dim. I removed more of the algae, so I hope these two things end up reducing the algae long term.

Thanks for all the responses! I'll look into the dimmer and see if it's compatible, but I feel like at this point ramping the photo period way down would be a good idea. I use a Kasa timer so it'll be easy to edit the times. At that point I could get a weak light like BigRedd suggested for view the tank. Edit: I did use an all in one liquid fertilizer for a while and the algae exploded, so I stopped using that and now just rely on what I feed and the root tabs to provide nutrients. I could up the fertilizers but I would need some co2 at that point, if I had to guess.

I'll try that. Part of my concern is I actually want to enjoy the tank, so my short photo period before wasn't as enjoyable. Hence considering less intense light. Anyone know if there are dimmers compatible with the Stingray 2?

I have a ten gallon tank with a sponge filter, glass lid, and a Finnex Stingray 2. Inhabitants are a bunch of cherry shrimp and 7 chili rasboras. It's pretty well planted with a variety of different plants, including several types of floating plants. I currently do not dose any fertilizers or any co2, aside from root tabs. When I set it up initially I did add just a bit of fertilizer weekly, but then I got hair algae (I think) that went out of control. I did a blackout for about a week and that killed it, so I stopped dosing ferts and reduced the photoperiod to about 4 hours. Now my photo period is 5 on, 2 off, 5 on so that there's a little siesta during the day. I'm noticing that especially at the bottom, the algae is beginning to return. My thought is that my light is just too bright, and after seeing Girl Talks Fish video comparing Stingray 1 and 2, part of me is considering getting the Stingray 1 so that the light will essentially be cut in half. The reason I have so many floating plants was to reduce the light, which I suppose helps, but didn't solve the problem. Just curious if it is the light, or if there could be another cause. Also while I don't want to purchase a new light for the tank if it means a possible solution I would be happy to, as I am not sure how to appropriately reduce the light otherwise (dimmer switch? electrical tape over some of the diodes?).