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Rob E.

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  1. I think the mini sponge will fit. I had a spare medium size pre-filter sponge laying around (same inside diameter) so I tried it just now and it fit on, was a bit loose actually. I angle the output nozzle toward the glass to help hold it there. I'm assuming that you want to dampen the outflow and I think that the CoOp mini pre-filter sponge is a great idea. A few years ago I wanted to do the same thing and I used the fluval edge pre-filter sponge on the outlet. It is a much finer sponge and I felt that it reduce the flow too much. I found a site called spec-tanks that showed different mods. one of them was to poke a hole in the discharge line inside the pump chamber to recirculate flow. I had my heater in that chamber and it worked good for awhile. eventually i felt the tank wasn't maintaining temperature well enough and just moved the heater into the main tank with an airstone under it.
  2. I think you would be fine with either 3/4" or 1". I went with 1" because I just copied what Cory did in his fish room videos. That way I was sure what size diamond bit I needed. Also I used 1" for my air header so I had plenty of leftover PVC for the overflows. I feel like the larger size would also allow any debris to pass through better, preventing blockage of the overflow.
  3. I wonder if what you were seeing was a temperature controller. They act as a backup thermostat, the normal heater plugs into it so if the heater fails to turn off and the water gets too warm, it will cut power and save your fish.
  4. Congratulations on the babies! I would just add them in with the adults, assuming there are no predators in the tank, they should be fine. I would definitely cover the filter intake with some fine filter pad or something, they will get in there. Try to add some hiding places for them to feel safe, moss, rock piles, cholla wood, etc.
  5. I heat my fish room to around 78 degrees, and my mbuna tanks are usually between 74 and 76 depending on the season and I haven't had any issues so far. Most of my tanks are a little below room temp, my guess is natural evaporative cooling, so your tanks might be in the upper 60's if you heat to 70. Just my opinion, but I don't think it would be a good idea. They might survive, but It would be a considerable stress factor, so if there is aggression, sickness, or water quality issues then the results would compound. I would use a heater if possible, I think you would have a better experience.
  6. Before I built my fish room and started using the CoOp piston pump, I used a couple Fluval Q series diaphragm pumps to run my tanks and I was pretty happy with them. I used the fluval Q .5 for 2 tanks (40 breeder and a 20 long) , and then the Fluval Q2 for 5 tanks (3x 10's and 2x 20 longs). Both pumps were about maxed out if I remember correctly The Q2 is maybe $35, 4 watts and 4L/min. You would probably need 3 of these pumps to run the rack you are planning, but I think it could work. Using airstones in all your sponge filters makes a huge difference if you want to get more tanks out of an air pump. I've heard that the tetra whisper pumps are good too, but I've never used one so I can't compare them to the fluval pumps.
  7. A few years ago I bought some 10g tanks from my LFS, and one of them had a deep blue label covered by a Seapora label. After that, I always just assumed that they were owned or manufactured by the same company.
  8. lol, my tank is very creepy! It use to look really nice, had it aquascaped with nano fish. Eventually I made it into a pea puffer tank and it became more difficult to manage the algae and cyanobacteria. The pea puffers got a bigger tank now, with auto water change. I really should have torn it down by now, but I'm oddly fascinated by how terrible it looks.
  9. @PineSong The smell that you are describing sounds too strong to be cyanobacteria, my first thought is that maybe there is some old fish food stuck to the tank rim or lid, or a maybe a dead snail. I have this tank in my kitchen that I've been fighting cyanobacteria for years. I've gotten rid of it multiple times using antibiotics and blackouts, but it always comes back. I finally decided to move the fish about a month ago, but haven't had time to tear down the tank. As bad as it is, I can't smell anything from it right now. I normally only smell it if I'm trying to manually remove it.
  10. @Streetwise That is interesting! I know nothing about marine tanks, so I had to look it up and it does indeed look like cyanobacteria in a salt water tank.
  11. @JimmyIt sounds like you are thinking about venting to help manage humidity, I assumed that you were concerned about indoor combustion heaters. My dehumidifier doesn't have any trouble keeping things around 50%, I use twin wall polycarbonite lids, but I cut holes in them so that I can feed quickly without having to lift each lid every time so its not optimal. I believe having a fan running also helps prevent condensation. I think you will be fine without a vent, just entering the room will change some air. You could always look into an HRV or ERV unit. I don't know much about them, but they apparently provide ventilation and recover the heat from the air before pushing it outside. Pretty neat, but probably pricey.
  12. @Jimmy I do have air exchange in the room, but I don't know if I would consider it an exhaust. I made my fish room by hanging moving blankets from the joists to cut my basement in half. The half with the tanks also contains the furnace and hot water heater so it includes the fresh air vent. In the winter when I run the furnace and the gas heater, I open the register on the furnace to help heat the room. All the return ducts are upstairs so the air naturally flows through gaps in the moving blankets and upstairs. Even with flow through the blankets, they are very good at keeping the fish room warmer than the rest of the basement. The gas heater is designed for indoor use and produces co2 and water vapor.
  13. I've found that a fan makes a huge difference in keeping all of my tanks around the same temperature. It will depend on the size of the room and the size of the fan though. My fish room (20'x16') has tanks stacked 3 high on a basement slab. In the summer months (Michigan) the temperature difference between the top and bottom tanks was maybe 5 degrees. In the winter I would run a vent free gas heater, and the temp from top to bottom would be considerable, but also from one side of the room to the other as the heater was in the corner. I added a 10" vornado fan rate for 415cfm and that help a lot, but i still had areas that were too hot or too cold. I bought an 18" Air King that puts out 2600 to 3200 cfm and that was overkill, but all of my tanks are currently within a degree of each other.
  14. Its always best to feed several small meals as opposed to one big meal, but I routinely feed my fish and fry once per day. Its not ideal, but it works for me and i haven't had any problems. Fry will grow faster if you feed them several small meals each day but they wont starve if you feed them once. They are always searching for food, picking at biofilm, picking at substrate, I think you will be fine only feeding them when you feed your other fish. I found a surprise saulosi fry in my tank a few months ago and pulled him out into a separate container. I fed him live baby brine for months, along with crushed up flake and pellet food. Then one day I notice some more fry about his size in the main tank, so I returned him to his friends. I continue to squirt a bit of bbs into the tank from a pipet, but not a lot. I plan to stop feeding it to them soon. I know the adults eat some of it, but I haven't had issues with bloat, It is a very small amount. I think that you will be fine feeding it for a few weeks.
  15. Cory did a fish room tour of 'Wild fish tanks' a few years ago, where he has his entire fish room in a Florida garage. There might be some mention of how he manages heat. Maybe running a fan pointed at the pump would help? Edit: The fish room tour is called "Check out the lighting in this fish room." It looks like he has insulated panels added to his garage door.
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