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Ragnarok12

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  1. Hi everyone. I've got some sick fish and have decided to run the med trio in all of my tanks, as I've never properly treated my fish with meds before. I've got a 29 gallon standard, 12 gallon long, and a ten gallon quarantine tub. The two tanks are heavily planted and have been set up for a year. The 12 gallon has co2, the 29 does not. All tanks are ph=7, nitrates =20, kh=30 ppm, no nitrite or ammonium. Temp is 72F in the 12 gallon and 76F in the 29 gallon and the tub. I added the same amount of meds to all three tanks following the co-op instructions on the website, and 48 hours later the water is extremely cloudy in both the 29 gallon tank and the quarantine tub. The 12 gallon is crystal clear. Is this normal? I had 4 dead fish this evening in the tub from the order I recieved yesterday from Aqua Huna, so I've broken down the tub and moved the living fish into the two respective tanks. I'm concerned about this cloudy water issue though, and am unsure if this is just a side effect of the med trio throwing off the bacterial balance in the tank or something else that I should be concerned with. It doesn't make sense to me to do a water change and new meds if it's just going to become cloudy again, but I also don't want more fish dying. Any thoughts? I've attached a picture of the cloudy 29 gallon for reference
  2. Thanks everyone for your suggestions! I've decided to go with the F-Zone regulator and paintball CO2 canisters per @Shrimp Doggy Dogg's suggestion. I'll provide an update in a few weeks with feedback and how I like the system. Thanks again for everyone who posted here!
  3. These are all great recommendations, thank you! I like the sounds of the system that you recommended @AllFishNoBrakes. I appreciate hearing that you've had success with it in your setup, and being able to keep excess chemicals lying around to easily recharge the reactor is perfect. I'm open to more recommendations if anyone else has additional experience with small systems!
  4. Hey everyone. I'm looking to get into CO2 starting with my 12 gallon long planted tank, but I don't have the cash to shell out for a full size system. I'm looking for recommendations for a mid-level system that's under $100 total. I want something that's higher quality than the old fashioned DIY yeast setup, but I don't want to invest in the Co-op regulator and a large tank for such a small tank (for now, at least). I've seen paintball canister systems that seem appealing, but honestly Amazon overwhelms me with choices and I'd like to hear from other hobbyists to see what you all recommend. Thanks in advance! Here's the tank for reference:
  5. We're happy to have you on the forum Saly! I would echo the recommendations to hold off on the meds for now. The biggest benefit of the med trio is treating sick fish that you are adding to a tank or a fish room that already has a lot of healthy fish. One sick fish can infect all of your other fish and cause you a WAY bigger problem that you started with. But if you only have the single betta, I would probably do as Patrick_G recommended and just keep an eye on the fish to see if he starts exhibiting any strange behavior. I've never had an issue with bettas coming in sick and needing immediate treatment, though I'm sure someone has a horror story out there. I also would definitely go for the 10 gallon tank. That's going to be a mansion for your betta, and as long as you monitor water conditions, you should have no issue as the tank cycles. If you don't have any test strips or aren't comfortable with testing your water yet, then I would do a 25% water change every two days for the next few weeks just to be EXTRA sure. Honestly though, you should be fine. Let us know how it goes!
  6. Omg that fish...is beautiful @Fish Folk Is that an aquabid acquisition?
  7. Awesome suggestions, thanks everyone! I'll do some more research into the habrosus corys, I hadn't considered them at all for a setup like this. Although I'm not sure I would ever get any work done at my desk with 50 corys swimming around in front of my face 🤣 Also, big fan of the clown killi recommendation. @Joey1991 how many would you start out with to colony breed? Just a pair?
  8. Having both fry and adults able to coexist in this tank would be ideal, but I have other tanks I can move fry into and have them grow up there. I know five gallons is not a lot to work to start with. with My priority would be having fish that could live comfortably enough in this tank to spawn successfully. It being a desktop aquarium, I'm mostly interested in observing breeding behavior and achieving spawning conditions. I'll cross the bridge with the fry if/when I get there 😅
  9. Just finished setting up a new 5 gallon desktop and am thinking about stocking possibilities. I'd like to try a breeding project in here, but I'm not sure what would be a good fit for something this small. I have plenty of larger tanks that I could move fish into if they get too cramped, so consider this a low risk set up with no love lost if it fails. Could something like apistos or gudgeons work well in here? I've got a few weeks of cycling left before it'll be time for stocking, so I'm in no rush. I'm not looking to do shrimp or livebearers. I'd love to do something like scarlet badis in here, but I've read about it being impossible to get a pair in the US, so I'm not holding my breath. Does anyone have thoughts?
  10. Thanks everyone. Sounds like the consensus is just more consistency. I'll keep working on it and see if I can turn it around.
  11. Hi y'all, I've had a 29 gallon US wild caught tank up and running for about 7 months and am struggling to get the plants to really take off. Or, well, grow much at all, actually. I have not been investing significant time into the aquarium, and have actually been traveling for a lot of the summer. I don't have a dosing routine, but I will throw a few squirts of easy green in there a few times a week. I'm running a Finnex Stingray 36 inch at 8 hours per day. Gravel is Eco Complete. I've tried numerous stem plants and the only one that hasn't melted away to nothing is the Pogo Octopus, though they're loosing leaves on the bottom as fast as they are growing (kind of) at the top. The anubias are getting hit hard by algae accumulation, and the amazon sword hasn't grown in the slightest since planting it 6 months ago, despite some occasional root tabs in there below it. The crypts are the only things that seem genuinely happy. The fish are all doing fantastic and have been exhibiting spawning behavior, but the plants are a buzz kill, especially since this is my main display tank. I added the salvinia thinking that shading my help cut back on the algae growth, but I'm still getting algae and I think the plants are suffering from lack of light. I was thinking of getting CO2 in there when the Co-op regulator comes out, but I feel like I should be able to get this thing into balance in its current state without relying on CO2. Let me know what you all would do in this position. Thanks in advance! Here's my full stocking and parameters log: Parameters Temp: 80F Filtration: Single Sponge Ph: 7.0 Nitrates: ~25 ppm nitrites: ~0 ppm Gh: 3 Kh: 2 Stocking (Fish) 8 Golden Topminnows (fundulus chrysotus) 4 Croaking Gouramis (trichopsis vittata) 1 Swamp Darter (Etheostoma fusiforme) 2 Eastern Blacknose Dace (Rhinichthys atratulus) Stocking (Plants) Anubias nana and congensis Crypt wendtii Brown, wendtii green, and sri lanka Pogo Octopus Amazon Sword salvinia minima Jave fern kiat Tiger Lotus bulb (just added two days ago) Anubias hastafolia (just added, still in pot) Here are some pics of the tank:
  12. You can always plug the space heater into a wifi timer and have it automatically turn off at night, if you are uncomfortable having it on while you sleep. It will also allow you to control it from a distance if you are ever traveling. You may want to check and make sure that the wifi timer can sustain the level of electricity throughput required by a space heater. It would also be more cost effective to have it run for 16 hours a day instead of 24, and would mimic the rise in fall in daytime and nighttime temperatures that many fish are used to. Just a thought.
  13. Thanks for all of the feedback everyone, I've learned so much from this thread. I'm going to give it some more time before I make a decision, but I will likely go with the school of otos and give it some time for all of my plants to get really established before I think about adding the BN. They seem like super cool and rewarding fish based on everyone's comments, but I'm nervous about adding something could potentially damage m plants before they get well established. I'm going to lean heavily on stemmed plants for this setup as well as a sword and a dwarf lily, so it sounds like a BN could be a risk until things really get going. And then who knows, maybe I'll just throw a BN in there too 🙂
  14. Hi everyone. I'm setting up a 29 gallon planted tanks with some wood and rocks as hardscape, and I'm trying to plan out my algae clean up crew. I'm going between a school of 6-8 otos or a super red bristlenose for algae control. I have tons of experience with otos, but have never kept a bristlenose. I'm planning for the tank to house 4 croaking gouramis (not sparkling gouramis) and a school of 8-9 golden topminnows (fundulus chrysotis) I caught in Florida, but I might throw a school of larger tetras in there as well. TBD. Does anyone have thoughts on the oto vs BN question?
  15. I've found that my floating plants REALLY don't like current. I get a lot of melt if 1) there is too much current or 2) there is not enough light. I'm specifically referring to salvinia and red root floaters, but the same should apply for other floating plants like pennywort as well. I find that I always get some melt in my salvinia around the output of my sponge filter, but it grows quickly enough around the rest of the tank to compensate for what dies off.
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