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Dr.rex

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  1. Dr.rex

    Parasite cleanse

    Dr.rex replied to Dr.rex's topic in Diseases

    @Colu awe okay I'll just put him back with goldfish that's where he was before We just wanted to move them into the living room instead of the bedroom to be seen more 55gl set to 68 with a 50w
  2. Dr.rex

    Parasite cleanse

    Dr.rex replied to Dr.rex's topic in Diseases

    @CJs Aquatics @Colu I didn't know dojo's liked it cooler but he's doing fine so far 300w heater set to 82 but it turns off with the lights, lights are astronomical sunrise to sunset via smart plug He's 2yrs old and about 11in, his name is Mr.wiggles and he demands cold water changes, he'll go nuts while it raining outside till I change some of it out for cold water, then it's a feeding frenzy for him till next "rain" so to say, he's a really chill fish till storms move in, then he goes just flat nuts banging, smacking and hitting the lid and tank, and if y'all didn't know they make a really cool sound when they come up to the surface and grab a gulp of air like a beta
  3. Dr.rex

    Parasite cleanse

    Dr.rex posted a topic in Diseases

    So I'm doing a parasite cleanse on 55gl, 82°,ph 7.2, gh 300, kh80, nitrite 0, nitrate 10, 3yr old Guppies, a dojo loach and a angel fish I never fully got rid of them over the years and now I'm just going to finally hit um hard so I started with posipro at 2x strength for 3 day then 50% and 5gl everyday since I use seachem safe for dechlorinator And now I'm alternating between two different types of medicated food, one in the morning and other at night Does anyone have any thoughts on this type of cleanse Too much, too little, ease off the nuclear worm Holocaust or maybe more nuclear like pea,carrot and flutabendazole diy gel food (experimenting atm)
  4. Dr.rex
    Has anyone used neo Marine kalibrite saltless salt mix as mineral supplements in freshwater aquariums, I bought a 25lb at an auction for pennies what am I missing because it does it with like the shrimp Trace elements, The reef Trace elements, ect they all work the same I have a breeding activity explosion for a couple days and then the whole tank just starts to crash out, am I missing like some obscure Trace element or elements here cuz algae doesn't happen, everything goes into breeding and then everything stops about 4 days later till another shot of mixed water hit the tank breeding Molly's and apple snails atm And I live in Southern Illinois where we have literal mineral water just pouring out the tap ph around 7.6 water hasn't changed in 2 years from the town even check that, so do you guys have any ideas what's going on I have several tanks but we'll use this one since everything gets 10% ever 2-3days using the same mix 55gl, 86°f , ph 7.6-8.2, gh maxed out on everything 500+, kh is around 450, no nitrite no ammonia, between 60 and 100 nitrate, I have copper pipes but I cannot detect any copper, lron is around 50, tds is 1900ish All the testing is ppm Stocking is regular mollies, balloon mollies, apple snails, Malaysian trumpet snails, 1 green spotted puffer and one really large dojo loach
  5. Dr.rex
    I built my 8ft rack and a stand for my 55
  6. Dr.rex
    Like I said I'm using full size water lettuce with very hard water, so this may be very different in another glass box, for this tank at least, that's what I've noticed they like to feed on the most. witch to spark even more discussion I am currently running research on using a fish tank as a "water reservoir" of some sort in cultivating adult stuff, cuz those type of plants and other terrestrial plants like pothos tend to feed so much more the normal aquatic plants. I've done one round and I have a buddy that's done it his whole life and so far I think everyone everywhere should be using waste aquarium water to water everything regardless of what plants they are, its seriously some magical stuff.
  7. Dr.rex
    Plants typically consume nitrates first then ammonia and then nitrides, there's a whole host of micro nutrients in their but they just prefer the easy to use nutrients first hence why I have zero nitrates then low ammonia and then quite high nitrites at least my water lettuce which is a very heavy water column feeder doesn't really like to suck out nitrites, but it basically strips the water of all the nitrates and ammonia, which I'm guessing it's causing a bacterial imbalance in my bio filter of some kind, because as this blooming and crashing cycle is going on I'm now staying at or near zero nitrates and lil ammonia even with the amount I'm feeding, but atm I'm having to change water for nitrites more then anything witch ain't a bad thing because I'm out to rebreed the 70s guppies you can't kill, hopefully
  8. Dr.rex
    See I have been very sketchy of using off label fertilizers because this is a breeding tank, but if it's safe I'm not opposed to it it's just I don't know enough to really try any of that, I used Miracle-Gro tomato fertilizer on a 10 gallon tank, long ago, I put a teaspoon in with no fish and no plants and let it sit just to see what it would do and it became so green I couldn't shine a spotlight through it legit million candle spotlight wouldn't go through this 10 gallon tank it was that green, pic of the same tank 6 months later after adding 3 silver mollies just to see if anything would live in it, cuz this was my first green water ever and didn't know what it was.
  9. Dr.rex
    Oh guess I should add that I'm feeding eight tablespoons of prepared repache food and there are okay tablespoon, not quite a full one and there's a feeding dish in back y'all can't really see that I drop it in
  10. Dr.rex
    Okay y'all, I know I'm over feeding and yes all the food is being consumed fully, I have checked this multiple times thinking that the foods the issue, I use aquarium co-op ammonia and multi test strips so I trust um and use them as directed, as fair as light levels, I'm using full size not dwarf water lettuce with duckweed that grows in between, at the surface, I would say extreme light, under surface, I would say low to very low, I realize this issue can very easily be solved by removing plants frequently and reducing feeding while halfing the light, I'm looking for out of the box ideas here, this is a breeding tank for guppies, plecos and mystery snails, if I'm having serious overgrowth and not able to literally put enough food in the tank to sustain it and having a major die back which throws my water to the moon causing another Bloom cycle, instead of doing the normal remove, reduce, reassess. What could I add, what could I change, what would it do, i love my glass boxes because each one's its own experiment, come on dig your brains y'all, out of the box wacky ideas, what would possibly work in this scenario and there are no wrong answers here
  11. Dr.rex
    So idk much about lighting, but I got my 55gl running 2 25$ shop lights, (50w 6k lumen, color 5k, each) water Is 79°, A 0, ni 0, na 0, gh 300+ kh 40-0 pH 7.8-8.2, I'm having the issue of the water being to clean, like no amount I feed will shift the water and my plants (water lettuce and duckweed) are going the cycle of massive growth in couple days then massive die off just as fast, blasting my water to, A 1, ni 4, na 0, then swinging it back to 0,0,0 in a 6-8 day cycle, is there any way to stabilize this cycle, cuz I'm feeding 4 tbl spoons of repashy community Plus twice daily and it's just barley keeping it stable but it keeps going out of whack, anyone know what to do or any ideas, no easy green but I am using easy carbon 6 pump per day
  12. Dr.rex
    Funny thing is that green picture is after 4days of complete back out, and a 8w uv had lil effect during the 4 days as well, that's kind of the reason I'm on here asking nothing seems to work atm, and because my flag fish are breeding I don't want to contaminate their food chain since they're primarily algae eaters, but I would also like to see my fish lol
  13. Dr.rex
    Agreed, I have a 55gl runing at 82° a0 ni0 na 50-100 pH 7.6ish, super heavy floating plant stock,(water lettuce and duckweed running under 2 50w shop lights), I've got stupid hard water with no buffer so I use aragonite and they really do seem to prefer a tank with it in it to not, and they kind of like heat when they breed 78°-84° but other than that that's the only two things I found outside of what he said, well I feed the hakari fancy guppy food mainly with repashy community plus every other day that may increase there cycle, but mine tend to give birth to about 30 to 45 fry every 22ish days, witch about oh about 30% ish live atm, heavy on the ish, too many to actually count anymore
  14. Dr.rex
    Astronomical Sunrise to sunset for my area, so about 6am - 8:30ish atm, all my tanks run them same light schedule
  15. Dr.rex
    So this 20L is unplanted ish, heavily planted with sculpted hair algae, water is 72° A 0 Ni 0 NA 0 gh 300+ kh 240, stock is 2 breeding American flag fish, 36 sunset sword tail fry and snails (mts,rams,pond) with a couple of shrimp mixed in, my question is, what can I treat with so I can at least see them without putting any chemicals in there because I'd like to avoid any possible contamination of their diet, pics are before and after green, Amazon sword has since been moved
  16. Dr.rex
    Okay this is like my 8 or 9th Time trying to hatch these, I have about five pairs and it's either the eggs drop off the walls and into the tank or they do this or nothing at all, am I missing something here because I've tried multiple different tanks, multiple setups and for some reason I just can't do it
  17. Dr.rex
    I'm experimenting with undergravel filters and the one thing I do know, get you a good air stone, cuz I've tried so many and the ones that come with it are junk, but in personal experience so far, run two never clog air stones on fine bubbles with a 10 or 20gl air pump running each stone, mine is covered in aragonite with a 60 gallon air pump, "2 outlets spilt into 4" running 2 10gal under gravels. Pic of early setup, 1 air stone running off a single 10 gal air pump and stock air stone, worked okay, but never clogs running fine bubbles with alot of air works so much better, the flow starts resembling hang on The backs then
  18. Dr.rex
    I've never encountered snails getting like fungus but when it comes to their shells if they have shell erosion they will not repair it you can only stop the damage and feed them good food and what shell they grow will be good but the shell that's already grown we'll stay bad sadly, my personal advice, keep your water at, temp 80ish, pH 7.6ish, gh as high as you can keep it "use Wonder shells", kh above 40ish, 120-150 is better, A 0, Ni 0, NA 50 or less, and make sure they have algae preferably Green spot algae but algae wafers or rapashi foods and etc will all work nicely, so far that set up did not repair the damage that was done but they're perfectly happy for over a year now, granted they have a line in their shell from when they came into my care but all the shell they've grown since is nice
  19. Dr.rex
    I agree, looks like a Malaysian trumpet snail with a pretty pattern, picture of confirmed Malaysian trumpets for comparison, but I'm 95% sure that's a Malaysian trumpet snail of some kind
  20. Dr.rex
    So I went collecting tonight at the Creek right down from the house, Southern Illinois about 1:00 a.m. supposed to get a heavy rain at about 6:00 am, but can anyone tell me what this fish is I have looked and I just can't find what it is, I also collected wild Ram's horns and some mosquito fish with it , I want to say it's some kind of algae eater but idk
  21. Dr.rex
    Okay for those that follow this 10 gallon tank was my first tank it also started MTS with me, but in the beginning it has the trio of guppies which had 2 sets of fry about a year ago, they got moved into a 20gL, which left this tank partially drained for a month or two which somehow became a cyclops tank all by itself which I tried to Nuke with periclens cuz I thought they were parasites lol, before someone here told me what they, which for the longest I used it as a "death tank" just a tank full of Cyclops and snails that Id put all the dead fish, all the dead plants, everything I didn't want in any other tanks into it and just let it rot away, no filter, no Air, then one day I decide you know what let's do that, I add a 150w led (23w) and a 10g sponge, and boom green water, I add a hang on the back and some hornwort trying to clear it up, but nope, but water parameters were good so I added four silver Molly males now my question is do I still feed them as normal because Molly's are algae eaters too a point and it's a giant tank of algae, so do I still need to feed them as regular or do I need to change something here, cuz personally tamales are doing absolutely amazing and I kind of grown fond of the green color almost it's just different than all the others cuz it's my only green one
  22. Dr.rex
    I have a similar canister on my 55g, and I absolutely love it but my setup runs 4 different trays with, bio balls, ceramic media, aragonite in filter bags, then empty space, (in order from bottom to top) cuz I cannibalized 1 tray to make a breeding box not thinking, but I run hornwort, frog bit, water lettuce, duck weed, and even with that canister my hornwort grows like f****** mad and it's one of my major filtering components in my system with my other actually being hair algae, those two put together probably do twice the work of that canister if not 4x but I like the canisters because they provide the stability to be able to remove large amounts of plants every time, because when I remove hornwort (I think of it as a self-growing sponge you take out) I think the bio load shifts to the canister and then as it regrows the load is took off of it slowly in a repeating cycle of my weekly maintenance
  23. Dr.rex
    27days since put in, 2lbs split in 2 filter bags inside a canister filter instead of my charcoal pellets, plants well not much using a sand bed so hornwort, water lettuce, frog bit, duck weed, tank 55g, and the tap results are after 48 hours,
  24. Dr.rex
    Okay y'all my tap water is pH 7 gh 300+ kh 40 A 0 ni 0 na 0, I'm raising guppies, Pilates and Molly's along with mystery snails. I've been wanting to raise my KH and crushed coral isn't available and I'm not comfortable using like alkaline buffers so I put some aragonite in a filter media bag and put it in some filters, it's raised one tank, my 55g to pH 7.8 -8 gh 300+ kh 120ish which is running a standard canister filter with 1 bag inside instead of carbon pellets, will the aragonite eventually stop or is it just going to keep on raising the pH on up and up
  25. Dr.rex
    Because she's orange I couldn't see it got better look at her as I took her out, she's fully covered in swollen red veins, must have been a really bad bacterial infection, I don't think I could have done anything even if I did start the maracyn on day one
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