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B1gJ4k3's Achievements


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  1. A few weeks ago, I picked up 5 black mollies form my LFS and put them into a 75 gallon quarantine tank, along with some others. They seemed OK to start with, but eventually, I started losing them and they seemed to be having trouble swimming, kind of wiggling rapidly from side to side and some of them seemed to have some swim bladder issues because they would have trouble staying horizontal in the water. I moved them to their own 20 gallon quarantine tank, put some salt in, raised the temperature and fed peas (which I don't really think they ate). Two more died in the 20 gallon quarantine, so I went back to normal feeding and temperature, but now I'm down to only 2. One seems OK. She seems to be breathing rather rapidly, but I don't know if that's just stress of me observing her. She's eating normally and is pretty active in the tank. The male, on the other hand, just doesn't seem right. He also breathes somewhat rapidly and also seems to have trouble swimming. He's got a little bit of the wiggle going on (which apparently is called "The Shimmies" or livebearer disease--although I'm not really sure that's the problem based on my water parameters below). His back also seems to be kind of weak and his tail is often either curved up or down and he spends most of his time either at the top or the bottom of the tank. My water parameters are fine. No ammonia or nitrates, really for that matter. Hardness and buffer seem fine (although, that's admittedly an area I don't know much about). PH is buffered up to 7.6 with crushed corral in an HOB filter. Temperature is now 76ish. I'm not really sure where to go from here. At some point, these two obviously bred because I have two little fry swimming around in a breeder net in the same tank. The rule usually seems to be "if they're breeding, they're healthy," but with livebearers, it's not terribly difficult to get them to breed. What should be my course of action here? Do I treat the whole tank (including the fry) for something bacterial? Do I further isolate the male and see if it's a swim bladder issue with some epsom salt baths? Do I risk moving the fry and the female to my display tank? Given the history with the other three that died, is it just a genetic thing and he's a lost cause? Not sure where to go from here, so any advice would be much appreciated.
  2. Yeah, I never really know what to do with mine, especially when the first thing that comes up when I Google some of them is how horribly invasive they are to some environments (Amazon frogbit). My strategy lately has just been to keep a Ziploc bag under the tank and put trimmings in there. When it's full (or I can no longer stand the smell that emanates when I open it), I seal it up and throw it in the trash. Throwing straight in the trash is probably good enough, but I'm paranoid about it.
  3. I think the Fluval Plant lights are kind of overrated. I have a couple of the Plant Nanos and was never that impressed by them. I've had just as much success growing plants as with other "full spectrum" lights. HOWEVER, having said that...I really fell in love with the app functionality. It's sooooooo nice to be able to schedule more than just on/off times and really precisely dial in the levels of light at certain times of the day. For that reason, I really love the Fluval Aquasky lights, which are basically the same thing as the Plant ones, just with red instead of pink, green, and only one white channel. I have them on all my tanks (with the exception of my nano tanks. They don't make an Aquasky nano, unfortunately). All my tanks have plants and all my plants seem to be doing well enough. On my main display tank, I keep the light really low during the morning and gradually ramp it up starting at noon so that it's full brightness at night. On my garage grow out and hospital tanks, I just keep it really low throughout the whole day so I can seem everybody but don't ever have to worry about algae. The fine-tuned control and the ability to experiment with different light levels is clutch. I did have trouble updating the firmware on one of the lights, but Fluval customer service was surprisingly helpful and was able to help me fix the issue, even though I had bought the light secondhand. For my money, the Aquasky ones are the way to go. You get the app control, spend a lot less money and still grow plants just fine.
  4. B1gJ4k3

    Mystery fry

    Can I just say how incredibly satisfying it is that you followed up on this post? Well done!
  5. Funny enough, in the video, you can actually see the powerhead struggling to get the water over the lip of the tank. When the tank is full, it's not a huge problem because the uplift is minimal and the siphon takes care of the rest, but when it's partially empty like that, a mid-sized powerhead like that can't even lift it 6-ish inches.
  6. I think that distance is the maximum length of an uplift tube that it would sit on top of, either on an undergravel filter (as they were originally intended to be used) or on a sponge filter. I don't think that measures it's ability to lift water up that distance.
  7. I've attempted a "power water changer" with a powerhead before with mixed results. In my experience, the powerhead is great for starting a siphon for a downhill water line...and not much else. I haven't had much luck moving water over any sort of incline. I tried it with the refugium I built for one of my 125s and couldn't even get it to lift water through a 1/4" tube over a height of about 8-10 inches with a mid-sized powerhead. Even with a large AquaTop 600 GPH powerhead hooked up to a garden house, the flow rate isn't that much better than just a standard siphon over the same distance. The AC powerhead looks to be about middle of the road as far as flow rate, so I wouldn't trust it to do much lifting, especially over 3 or 4 feet. If I'm understanding you correctly, I would think your money would be better spent looking into a submersible pump of some kind.
  8. I have the hardest time telling if mine are even eating. I try to feed enough so that some of the flakes get down to them. I also feed them a mix of Hikari Sinking Wafers and Omega One Catfish Pellets, but they don't seem overly interested in either of them. They'll swim in the vicinity of them, but it's hard to tell if they're getting anything, especially since all my platies and tetras swarm that area soon after. They must be getting fed somehow if they're continuing to grow, though (albeit slowly)
  9. Regardless of whether or not they actually get "sucked in", fry can definitely get into the filters, especially if they're small enough. I recently had a platy fry get its head stuck in one of my AC sponge filters. I assumed it was dead, went to pull it out and found that was, in fact, alive. However, it didn't last long and soon died. I think it probably stuck its head in there after some food or something, but the coarseness of the sponge definitely contributed to it getting stuck. It's not enough to stop me from using them, but having a fry stuck in a sponge filter is definitely something I've experienced before.
  10. @aquachrisNope, didn't scratch the glass. It's not really any different that using a razor blade. The metal is just smaller, more segmented and and moving really fast. It's also worth noting that I did use a razor blade to remove the bulk of the silicone. I just used those for that stubborn film that you can never really seem to get off with a blade alone. I was careful to keep it out of the seals between the beveled panes in the corners as much as possible, but I was also putting new silicone in there anyway, so I wasn't too concerned about it.
  11. I had good luck resealing a 75 gallon that I got for free recently. I completely redid the seals on the bottom and just the corner seals on the corners (rather than completely taking them apart--they seemed solid enough). It held water nicely for a good 3 or 4 months in my garage. My approach was to do as much as I was comfortable with at a time since I was doing it anyway. The beveled edges on the sides made me nervous, so I stayed away from them. Everything else I made sure to completely clean and reseal. Pro tip: these work 1000 times better for removing old silicone than a razor blade: https://www.amazon.com/TILAX-Cleaning-Stripping-Abrasive-Attachment/dp/B07Z4NLJ2Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3PUWU4H24I4C9&dchild=1 Having said that, though, I wouldn't have trusted a tank that big anywhere other than my garage. No matter how good of a job I thought I did, I would always be extra nervous about it leaking. I'm nervous enough about my new tanks leaking after I also had a bran new 75 gallon fail on me...
  12. @Bullsnark The 20 gallon is probably a bit small, but it's all I really had space for and I didn't have to go buy an additional tank. This setup is more than likely temporary as the original owner of the fish should be taking him back at some point. There's no filter over the overflow because on the tank it's being used on, there's only one fish to worry about and he's too big to get sucked into anything. I had only put it on my platy grow out tank as an experiment to see how it worked and eventually added a makeshift skimmer on the intake after some of the platys got a little too curious.
  13. @KentFishFanUK It seems to be going OK so far. The tank is still relatively new, so I think things are still getting established. But, previously without this setup, nitrates would get up to about 30 or 40ppm in 3 or 4 days. With this new setup, after 3 or 4 days, it's been reading around 15 or 20ppm, so that's promising. I was going to give it a few more weeks before posting an official update, but so far I'm optimistic that I'll be at least able to cut down to weekly water changes instead of twice a week.
  14. No, it's one big, curved piece along the back and then a smaller, straight one in front with a few smaller pieces scattered on the top.
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