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egruttum

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  1. Thanks for the comments. All good points. If I buy it I'll get everything sorted out with the existing fish then worry about adding more after I see how everything shakes out. If I do add more questionable fish I'd probably mix up the setup a bit so everyone has to find a home and no one has a territory.
  2. I found a great deal on a 125 (72"x18"x21") gallon aquarium with dual overflows. I'm close to getting it but I'm curious about anyone's experience with a large tank and nano fish? Do the fish seem to get lost in the aquarium? Am I able to keep various fish in there that in a smaller tank would not work together? If I do this I have agreed with my wife to sell two of my 20H aquariums. So at a minimum the 125 would get one angelfish, one rosy tetra, a bunch of rosy barbs, two breeding pairs of Bristlenose plecos, 5 butterfly goodeids, a variety of cordydoras and two friendly pea puffers (yes, they live just fine with the Corys, plecos, gooedieds, and rosy barbs). I'd love to get a pair of kribensis as well as add my apisto pair to it. Will it be too much and too crazy to have such a huge variety of fish in the aquarium? I'm thinking if I make tons of caves or rock areas the bottom dwellers will be fine together. And then if I get mid water and top water fish everything will be fine. Am I crazy for thinking about this? BTW, the large variety of fish in the 20 gals I will be getting rid of are because I bought the tanks as-is on FB Marketplace and they came with the large variety of fish. I have not added any fish to them since I got them.
  3. One quick note on this. I see a ton of people talk about using RODI water. For 99% of people using the DI at the very end is a waste. RO water, if the membranes are functioning properly, is incredibly low in any ions. Using the deionization resin at the end is just wasting money. If you are mixing RODI water with tap water in any ratio then your DI is totally wasted and it's just an extra expense for you. Remineralizing your water after DI is basically wasting DI resin as well. I'm sure there are some extreme cases where the deionization step is needed but for most people it's a total waste of money.
  4. Based on what I am reading you saying I would not run DI. DI is for people that want zero dissolved substances in their water so what they make is 100% by design. The difference between RO and RODI is so small that I think it's mostly a sales gimmick by companies to sell more product. I'm sure there are some tiny use cases where DI makes sense but I think the vast majority of users use it because a company says it's better for your aquarium. When you take your RODI water and mix it with tap water anything that the DI took out goes right back in. Using DI will only help the resin supply companies with their bottom line. My knowledge of home RO isn't great because I only use it industrially so this answer won't be the best. But if I were looking at buying an additional RO membrane for a homemade secondary recovery vs buying an entirely new unit with higher recovery I would carefully look at costs and my conditions. Inlet pressure is critical on an RO to create the proper pressure differential from the inlet of the RO membrane to the permeate side. With a low inlet pressure you won't have the driving force to push water through the membrane which will result in low recovery like you are seeing. If my water source was a low or inconsistent pressure I would look at a booster pump on the inlet. That will help your existing unit as well as help with any modifications or future purchases you make. If that doesn't get you the recovery you want I would probably look at the cost of a higher performance unit. But first I would consider what you are trying to optimize. For me personally I try to optimize my cost. I would look at the cost of a new unit vs the cost of water with the really low recovery you are seeing. If it's a really long pay back period I would save the upfront cost and just deal with the higher water cost. But if you are worried about your environmental impact and wasting water your calculation may be much different than mine. Hope this helps a little.
  5. What you are describing is very common in industrial RO units where you have a primary unit and a secondary recovery unit that takes the reject stream from the first membrane. They run at much higher than 65 PSI pressure and typically these basic ones get 75% recovery, meaning 3 gallons of clean permeate per 1 gallon of rejected water. If you do it this way you will not be able to tie the primary and secondary membrane permeate streams together as they will be at much different pressures. You will have to run them separately to your permeate tank. Do you need DI? It all depends on how low of TDS you want in your water. If you want zero you will have to run DI. If you just want low, like 1-10, then RO should be just fine alone. Low pressure industrial boilers will use RO water as their feedwater without any issue. Once you get up to high pressure super-heated steam boilers for turbines you have to do DI after RO to remove everything, especially the really hard to remove silica minerals that will plate out on your turbine blades.
  6. One thing you don't mention is putting in a source of ammonia to the tank. In a planted tank ammonia will be removed via uptake by plants and oxidation by nitrifying bacteria. Once you add livestock and start feeding you have now put an ammonia source in the tank (protein in the food gets converted to ammonia by the livestock as well as bacteria in the tank). If you tank is heavily planted enough and you have fast enough plant growth its possible that all the ammonia will be consumed by the plants and you will not have any detectable concentrations of ammonia in your tank. I can't tell you how many plants this takes but I know it's not a commonly accepted sole method of ammonia removal in an aquarium. What you are missing in your tank right now is the nitrifying bacteria. Since you have never put in an ammonia source the ammonia oxidizing bacteria (AOB) and nitrite oxidizing bacteria (NOB) have never had a chance to start growing. The good news is if you put an ammonia source in now (fish food, ammonium chloride made for this express purpose, ammonia solution from Walmart, etc.) you will have a jump start on having AOB and NOB in your aquarium because they came in on the plants. Until you add a source of ammonia your ammonia and nitrite concentrations will be zero but that does not indicate a safe cycled tank. ACO decided to use nitrate in Easy Green as the nitrogen source instead of an ammonia or urea nitrogen source. I'm guessing they did this because Easy Green is meant for all levels of fish keepers and it's incredibly difficult to overdose on nitrate to dangerous levels while overdosing on ammonia to dangerous levels is much easier.
  7. My peacock gudgeons eat Hikari mirco pellets and do well. When I want them to breed I put in a 3/4" PVC pipe capped on one end for them to lay eggs in. I have to take it out most of the time to prevent the male from always sitting on eggs and not getting to eat.
  8. One more reason I am perfectly happy to have someone else's last name on my shirt patch when I go to work. I don't need these headaches of my own business.
  9. Wow. Hard enough to own a small business when everything goes right.
  10. How do you dose your Easy Green? If you just use X pumps every Y days I don't know why someone couldn't do that. That would certainly keep your plants on a consistent schedule. With all my plants I struggle to keep any nitrate residual in my aquariums so I never do water changes because of nitrates. If you do water changes specifically to reduce nitrates then adding more Easy Green only creates more problems for you and probably is a good idea to put on hold. In my case with all low tech plants I would just stop fertilizing while I was gone if I was worried about nitrates. Not like the plants will run out of nitrates while you are gone.
  11. This is not the same as RO water you would make in a home RO system. RO water, especially from an industrial RO process like they would use at a bottling plant, is very aggressive to metal and does not taste particularly good because almost all ions have been removed. To counteract this they remineralize the water with a known concentration of minerals. I would guess the TDS of the Wally World water is much lower than the municipal water used to make it but still going to be higher than pure RO water.
  12. On most softeners when you open the bypass you are instantly putting unsoftened water into the downstream pipes. So unless you are a really long ways away from your softener and/or have massive pipes running the water for 30-60 seconds will give you normal unsoftened water.
  13. No idea. I get mine on Tuesday evenings and it seems very consistent. But here is the main article if you want to read it. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/breed-livebearers-for-profit And the advertisement: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/products/hikari-freeze-dried-daphnia And the membership info: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/membership Edit: Spelling
  14. As the bubbles rise to the surface and pop they make a little bit of spray. I'll bet the spray is coming out of your lid and hitting the wall. You probably never notice it because the spray is so fine that it evaporates pretty quickly so nothing stays wet. But any small particles in the water that are either suspended (TSS) or soluble are then deposited on the wall when the spray dries. Taking the air stone out should solve the issue. Or maybe painting the wall with a paint that's easily wipe-able would allow you to clean it on a regular basis before it becomes a black mark. Or get a tighter fitting lid.
  15. When in the ground, depending on the depth of the pond and the depth of frost in your area, its likely that the pond did not freeze solid and some liquid water remained in the bottom. With a tank out of the ground, unless you keep enough heat on it to prevent freezing, it will likely freeze solid through the entire water column and thus not leave liquid water for the fish to live in. I guess it will depend on how cold your area gets and for how long. I doubt two T-12 lights will give enough heat in an unheated garage to keep everything liquid.
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