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About DShelton

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    The Quiet Type
  • Birthday 03/13/1971

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  1. Was any of the equipment in the tank previously in other tanks and then allowed to completely dry out? If so there could be enough bio-matter (algae, biofilm etc) that died off in/on them that is decomposing to cause the ammonia to be generated.
  2. This is what the BD blasting sand looks like when wet. I have had 50# soaking in a bucket of water for a few weeks. I think I am going to use it in a new tank as a cap over “enriched Eco Complete”.
  3. I use Kordon NovAqua Plus (I believe it is manufactured by Fritz for Kordon) or Fritz complete.
  4. Tractor Supply sells a blasting media called Black Diamond Blasting Media. It is not really sand, but is a coal slag (inert in water) and they usually have a couple of grits of it. It has to be rinsed really well to get the production residue off of it, but it is a really nice black substrate.
  5. I think this is safe, but if not would one of the moderators please remove it. If you listen to Randy's Podcast you should recognize this organization, and Dr. Mazeroll. They have a free speaker series that they are hosting via Zoom. Next weeks is about the electric fishes (there is a registration form at the bottom of the page to get the Zoom link). I have attended a couple of these over the last few weeks, and they have been pretty informative. https://amazonresearchcenter.dm.networkforgood.com/emails/1171962 (I did take my referral ID out of the URL, so any strangeness you see on the page is due to that).
  6. I just bought pair of these little fellas (one might be a female) and three oto's that had been in the same take in a local mom & pop for several months. They are in a 10 gallon and more often than not they are always together, and not aggressive towards each other, and they completely ignore the oto's.
  7. You can add a few drops to your pellets,and I seem to remember hearing @Corysay that he soaked some of the pelleted food. Another thing I have also done is to make a "dough ball" (for lack of anything else to call it) out of flake and VitaChem. In the palm of my hand add a few drops of VitaChem at a time to some flake, and then working them together to make a ball of food dough. Then drop the dough ball in the tank. This works well in heavily stocked tanks, as it will disperse through water column, and sink slowly. All levels of the tank will get some, especially the bottom dwellers.
  8. Thanks, They were the source that I found as well. Thanks for the information on your experience with them. Cheers,
  9. @Frost I am toying with the idea of ordering some B. channoides (I have not seen them in any of my LFS). If I may ask, where did you acquire yours?
  10. I am a long time user (30+ years) of Marineland filtration products, specifically the BioWheels (I have 2 or 3 of the 330s from 20+ years ago), and their canisters. I have always found the HOBs to be up to the task for filtration, plus they are symmetrical. The way that I have always used mine, is sans filter cartridges, with coarse sponges for each side (I cut up sponges from an Eheim canister), and an intake sponge in the intake (I used a sponge off an old tetra sponge filter https://imgur.com/gwea9L0). I generally leave the BioWheels in them, as they do work, and would generally leave one of the filter baskets in the HOB to use for purigen/Phosban or some different biological media like SubstratPro or Matrix. In this method of operation the intake sponge is what keeps the guts of the filter clean and extends the amount of maintenance you have to do inside the HOB. I cleaned my intake sponges every month or so (so 4 - 5 water changes) and would only have to clean the inside sponges once the flow out of the filter was reduced after cleaning the intake sponge was not enough. At that point clean (i.e. rinse in dechlorinated water) the sponge(s) out of one side of the filter, and then next cleaning, clean the other side. I would likely not buy a new BioWheel, but that is no indictment of their capabilities (I am just not buying a new HOB anyime soon). They are neither the best nor the worst of the HOBs on the market, but IF you already own it, they are serviceable.
  11. Please post a photo. Does the stain go all way to the top edge of where the sand was and is the bottom of the tank black? We can detect H2S in very low concentrations like 50 - 100 ppb. You would have known if you had H2S as you could have smelled it. Thinking about the chemistry, there is a pretty small chance you had enough sulfur (unless you were dosing it sulfate for some reason) to produce H2S in enough quantities to detect, let alone possibly stain the glass. Your sand bed would have to be extremely deep, say 8 or more inches to possibly create anaerobic conditions suitable for the sulfate reducing bacteria to thrive.
  12. All of the snakeheads. I remember them in a tank at university when I was there. I would really like to have some of the dwarf species, some of them are very nice looking.
  13. The AP100 will run two sponge filters without an issue. I have one running two large COOP sponge filters in 100gallon Rubbermaid stock tank. Depending on the air requirements of your 3rd device, I suspect the AP100 will run all three of your devices without issue. The AP100 (depending on head pressure) will produce 3l/min * 2. If you put valves on each of the lines, you can control the air going to each of your devices, and the AP100 should provide enough air for your requirements. Ignore the tank capacity information, but the l/minute and the PSI should be spot on.
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