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ElTigre

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Everything posted by ElTigre

  1. I'd double check the expiration dates for your test kit. Each bottle has its own expiration date printed on them. This still doesn't seem likely based on your tap water testing 0ppm ammonia though. How often do you normally change water and how much? Also how much are you feeding and or fertilizing? I know some fertilizers like seachem flourish have ammonia which is why i stick to easy green.
  2. I've had these airstones for several months and never had to replace the felt. Are you sure you didn't tighten the airstone too tight as to restrict the flow of air?
  3. I have ziss hatchery too and don't use a heater. I do However use a light during the entire hatch process that puts out a little heat. This is the one i use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085HCJLLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Its nice to use because it easily clips to the handle of the hatchery.
  4. It looks to me that maybe your water is too soft. I keep my goldfish at 7.4ph, 90ppmGH, and 60ppmKH. It could be they aren't getting enough minerals from the water.
  5. #notsponsored😅 but the easy planter from aquarium co-op is designed for the plant to stay in the pot for as long as you want even in bare bottom tanks! https://www.aquariumcoop.com/products/easy-planter
  6. Yeah for my goldfish tank i have some jungle val and i just put the whole pot in the planter with a root tab and it took it a couple weeks but it began to send out some runners(inside the pot non outside the planter yet).
  7. Another important thing to note is that the bacteria you develop over time in your tank turns the ammonia in to nitrites and then into nitrates. With the addition of fish the food and poop was in the process of being converted into nitrates that's probably why you saw the nitrites register. Like @Franksaid though things can change fast in a small tank but i think you'll be fine!!!
  8. Another reason he could've been swimming on his side is if he had a swim bladder issue. Unfortunately its a tough one to cure plus in combination with anchor worms and meds he was probably exhausted from trying to swim upright.
  9. I've never had experience taking shrimp out to lay their eggs but instead kept them with some white clouds. In order to give the babies a better chance i put in a couple clumps of java moss. The tank it self is also heavily planted and has a lot of dragon stone hardscape. Lastly the shrimp swimming more is a good sign it mean the female has molted and is ready to breed and the male will begin to chase her and swim around to find her.
  10. 1) When it comes to the plants the stem looking plants should be fine floating as they can get enough nutrients from the water. However, one looks to be an amazon sword and they like to feed from their roots so i wouldn't recommend leaving that one uprooted for too long. 2)Idk anything about containment but sometimes it can help to use a piece of yoga mat cut to size of the tank to put underneath it. This will help it spread out the force of the water on the seams to not stress on side more than the other. Also always make sure your tanks on a level surface to prevent this as well.
  11. Yeah i had some white looking mold in one of my newer tanks i set up about a month ago all over some drift wood. My mystery snail and 2 nerite snails made short work of it and is hast come back since. Its pretty common in newer tanks but doesn't last long
  12. Yeah that looks too big. I use some knitting mesh (i think thats what its called) that i got from hobby lobby for only a couple bucks. I then used it to add a rim to my tank.
  13. I know easy green has always had potassium but my best guess to when they upped it was when they went to the smaller bottle size. If everything looks good you should be fine. You could slowly decrease the amount of extra K you add every other week or so until/if you see deficiencies. Once you notice deficiencies then you know to dose the amount you did the weeks before the deficiencies showed. Maybe you wont even need the extra K!!
  14. Personally ive never dipped my plants from the co-op and have had no problems. Only snail hitch hikers which i dont mind. However @Irenemakes great videos about plants and made this video for dipping plants:
  15. Yeah like @Colusaid getting another sponge filter to help with that bio load and flow on each side. However, I would add the new sponge filter and let it get cycled(for about a month) before removing the HOB.
  16. Funny enough my first tank ever i experienced the same thing. I had a 20 long with guppies and cory cats and they never bothered the golden mystery snail babies i had. I ended up with over 20 that survived and took them back to the lfs. For the clutch you can tell its done hatching when it looks like an empty honeycomb. I just removed as soon as they all hatched since i had more than enough. Honestly in terms of tank set up you could do whatever you want. A planted tank with natural décor would be cool. For tank mates you could do a large school of tetras, danios, or rasboras to supply poop for the plants and snails. One tip id suggest is getting some wonder shells (the co op sells them) to keep the calcium up in the tank, That way with so many snails in the tank you wont have to worry about them running out of calcium for their shells.
  17. Well in my biased opinion being a Co-op fanboy i'd recommend the ziss brine shrimp hatchery https://www.aquariumcoop.com/products/ziss-brine-shrimp-hatchery Personally after trying multiple diy hatch set ups and dealing with the struggle of them i decided to save up and buy this one. Its just a good quality product that has made hatching brine much easier for me.
  18. @CT_honestly i think a bleach dip is too extreme for the plant. I feel like you could end up doing more harm than good using bleach. Id try adding some snail and or shrimp to see if they can clean it up naturally. Or if you have room in the tank you could add some otocinclus they have cleaned up all the anubius and other plants i have in my tank in combination with some nerite snails and pond snails.
  19. If the root tabs don't work you can do a water change to remove some nitrates from fish waste and food you put in the tank. Then you can add easy green to get the nitrates back up. This way you will know the nitrates come from easy green and have the nutrients that plants need.
  20. Personally i don't even run a air stone in my hatchery. Its not really needed since you're just trying to have agitation in the water to get the salt mixed and the eggs suspended.
  21. Also with all risky experiments in stocking ideas i recommend having a back up plan or tank just in case.
  22. Yeah bamboo shrimp should do fine according to @Cory as seen in this recent video:
  23. In my experience keeping cherry shrimp I've come to use Wondershells as they are a great source of calcium for the shrimp and snails i have in the water while also adding other beneficial minerals. The nice thing about them is they are inexpensive and have different sizes for bigger or smaller tanks. Usually i just and one small shell to my 8 gallon shrimp tank once a month. If you want to try them out the Co-op sells them https://www.aquariumcoop.com/products/wonder-shell
  24. Sounds like you're feeding fine! I feed mine easy fry food from the Co-op and some bloodworms. Feeding the fry food is nice because if you have fry in the tank if feed the parents and the babies all the same.
  25. Like @Brandy said you just need a valve. Id start by adding one to the line headed to the hatchery and close it until you get enough flow in the tank and hatchery. This way you can also close than line completely when you aren't hatching brine.
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