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Everything posted by CT_

  1. I calibrate against a 15$ catheter thermistor. Since it's a medical device it is very accurate near body temperature but you need a multimeter and a lookup take to use it. Turns out my digital meat thermometer happens to be spot on. A LOT of ice with distilled water will also be very very close to 0 C as that's an intrinsic temperature standard. But I have thermometers that read spot on at 0 but are pretty off at tank temps. I assume they get factory calibrated with ice water but don't have a calibration point near tank temperature
  2. May not be your kh/gh. Mine are fine in 2/8 kh/gh. I've heard too much calcium can make molting hard too because the shell gets to tough. But that could just be an ad hoc argument.
  3. Clay is pretty porous dissolved solids could maybe adsorb for a while. On the same note it could be releasing something that was trapped. Also if your tap is low CO2 then letting it sit would lower the pH. I don't think nitrite itself lowers the pH but converting ammonia to nitrite releases acid. I'd just let it sit for a few days changing water until it looks good. And or you could add crushed coral, which is probably a good idea any way.
  4. Red and Yellow /had/ cadmium in them. As long as they're not "vintage" (Post mid 80's i think) they're okay, until we discover something else horrible in them.
  5. I think Coppersafe /adds/ copper to your water, not removes it. If my googling is correct. I can't think of a not crazy way to remove copper without just changing water. You could try a chelating agent and activated carbon. or pumping it through an NSF-53 filter. The NSF standard only tests lowering 3ppm copper to <1.3ppm, so IDK how well it actually works if you want less copper than that. Actually google says seachem makes a resin you can put in your filter: https://www.seachem.com/cuprisorb.php
  6. Awesome, thanks Robert! They look great! How much are these guys?
  7. @Robert I tried to google but I couldn't find a picture of a golden koi medaka. Do you have a picture of this variety? Also will I have to mortgage my house to buy half a dozen?
  8. The gravel came from a big box pet store sold for aquariums. The plant came from ACO . I hadn't considered trimming it back and didn't do that last time. I'll give that a try.
  9. oh also I think the aquarium trade Parotocinclus spp. get inbetween oto and pleco size.
  10. While I agree with your general point, you can absolutely do calculations. Math is wonderful and people discount it too much. Nitrogen is a great example because it's a conserved quantity so its fairly easy to model. If you add plants its hard to account for where that nitrogen goes in plants but it still gives you a conservative bound on water changes. Also before someone says you can never be exact, models and calculations don't have to be exact to be useful. If they did we'd have no engineering. You just did a calculation 😉
  11. I think the answer is maybe. Most base plastics aren't harmful because they just don't dissolve or migrate into water (this includes PLA, contrary to popular belief). But plasticizers (things that make plastic tougher/softer, think BPA that everyone freaked out about) can and technically do leach. "food grade" and approved for food contact and potable water plastics (like pvc pipe, but not drain ABS as far as I know) are supposed to not leach anything harmful. You also have to worry about pigments leaching. Black is almost always carbon black (safe) and white is almost always TiO2 (also safe). Things like yellows and reds used to have cadmium but I don't think they do anymore. All that said, in my opinion, If It's not a food or water grade product It's probably still okay, though it would be hard to tell. If you're breeding fish I'd stay away from polycarbonates(PC) and epoxies (including aluminum cans, though why would that be in your fish tank?!) as they can contain bisphenols (BP*) and at least BPA and I think BPS are known to cause reproductive harm in some animals.
  12. Ah. Well nitrites will all go to nitrate on a cycled tank so you really shouldn't see nitrites. The steady state nitrate level will be inversely proportional to the size of your water changes and proportional to how much you feed(assuming a fixed water change and feeding frequency and ignoring the contribution of plants absorbing nitrogen). So if you double your feeding you double your nitrates (once things settle). you double your water change volume you half your nitrates (again once things settle).
  13. Yeah. But its not a great rule. Assuming you do enough water changes you can add as many fish as you want IMO. But I don't recommend adding too many. water changing can get old pretty fast. You also have to consider if the fish has enough swimming space, which really is case-by-case.
  14. Otocinclus are in the same family (Loricariidae) as Plecos.
  15. Do you mean how much ammonia/bioload the tank can process into nitrate? Assuming you have enough surface area in your tank and filter(you probably do unless you don't have a filter or substrate/decor/plants) it'll process as much as you want assuming you don't change how much food you add suddenly.
  16. I found this on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/184942242967 It says its for brine, but I can't see how that would actually work well, or at all. Is this something else that's being sold as a brine hatchery?
  17. I wonder if those heating wires like on the rear defrost of a car would work...🤔 I'll report back when the rear glass of my aquarium explodes
  18. CO2 has been on for about a week now. They're growing but I've also noticed more stem segments melting, so I guess it's going to be a race between melting and new growth. The tops are getting covered in I think a green hair algae too, I guess I'll have to wait for things to balance out. I did find another thread from May with the same issue. Cory said they should be spaced out about an inch or left floating to convert so I'll probably go in this weekend an move them around a bit.
  19. 89$ seems expensive. Why don't you just buy a regular 15g and put it on its side 😛
  20. ironically you only changed the text but not the link. you can edit the link but its easiest to just delete it and re paste it.
  21. protip: you can shorten amazon URLs by cutting out the stuff after ref= (inclusive). infact you don't even need the Aquarium-Fish-Siphon-Gravel-Cleaner bit, just the "dp/<item number>" part. eg: https://smile.amazon.com/Aquarium-Fish-Siphon-Gravel-Cleaner/dp/B06XKGYJHR
  22. Heh yeah either a mod or a very good ai assigns pictures to posts without them (seems like a lot of effort so TY mods!). I've noticed sometimes photos from old posts including mine get used. As time has gone by the photos have gotten better :)
  23. Yikes do you know your pH history? Depending on which bacteria/archea you have a pH crash could have "stopped your cycle"
  24. It's inert so it won't remove anything dissolved in the water like easy green
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