CT_

Hmmm. last time was summer and it was by the window. They do get very bright lamp light whenever I'm around, but its not consistent. Last time was 100% hatch rate (excluding the unfertilized ones i removed early)

Aquatop, and I think most makers count the glass in the gallons. so my 30cm (12") cube is 27L =7.1g but in reality its 6.5g filled to the brim when you subtract the glass. Life is easier when you just round to 10g or 5g in my case 😉

What the internet gives the internet takes away. 😂😭 I honestly don't know what the internet ethics are around this but perhaps aquabid or ebay history could be connected too? The process would have to be something like start an auction with your member ID in the text so a computer can verify its you and then take the auction down. You'd just have to make sure that no one would buy the item. like a 100$ paperclip or something (I'd happily ship a 100$ paperclip if someone did bid).

I collected some medaka eggs starting 20 days ago. they're in methylene blue 3ppm. last time they hatched under the same conditions in 10 days. this time none of hatched. They are eyed up and under the microscope the few I've picked out have heart beats and will wiggle like normal occasionally. I know cold can delay medaka by quite some time but the room they're in is always 20C-25C. Its in my office so sometimes the room gets up to 27-28C if my computer is working hard. Does anyone know conditions that would slow development other than temperature?

Yeah I'm actually adding crushed сoral more as an insurance policy against a pH crash. I'm not really wed to it though. I'm going to order the sera pH kit which looks easier to read and just keep an eye on it instead.

Thanks Roy!! I did some digging around and I haven't been able to find an eddha iron product. though I can see I can buy 10 life time supplies of it as a powder. Some company named Glosso makes a 1% dtpa iron. At ph8 thats only 25% available on your chart but 25% >> 1%. Do you have a recommendation on an EDDHA iron source? Edit: Also since I put it in my mini-HOB the coral should be fairly easy to take out. I'll go back to equilibrium for my GH.

My tap is 8.0+ ph but like 20-30 tds and maybe 1-2dKH. I've never seen it fall below 7 even in my other tank with co2. Just double checked. for sure >7.2 on the API test. Honestly pH high test I can't see the difference between 7.4 and 8.0 my coop strips don't read ph right, and i broke my digital meter 😮 . but yeah 100% its over 7. Are you suspecting iron? I have seachem fluorite red substrate, which I think has lots of iron, but I don't think the anubias roots are touching it and I have no idea how much goes into the water column.

thats so weird. this chart shows something totally different for phosphate. In either case my Nitrate is around 40 (i think from root tabs mostly) so I think I can rule that out. I wonder what @Seattle_Aquarist thinks about both my plant and the discrepancy in these info-graphics.

Wow this is actually more than I thought would ever happen (not that I read this as a promise)! Thanks for looking into this Cory. And I for one would love a way to trade/give fish to others here.

I second this. I have 3 aquatops now and they're all great. I actually bought them because they were the cheapest rimless. but they have high quality glass and good construction and come with a pre-cut mat. Also for whatever reason my LFS sells them for much cheaper than anywhere else. Its probably a shipping thing. In any case, check your LFS before going on-line.

This is a 2ish month old anubias gold coin. I noticed this leaf turning a little yellow. Is this a phosphate deficiency? If so, will the color come back if I add phoshpate? Its my shrimp tank with only a dozen or so shrimp so it gets very little commercial food. kh ~=80, gh ~=150, tds ~=170. soft [south of] Seattle water with crushed coral and a little easy green. light I've slowly crept up on about 8hr/day starting from 4.

I've gotten a planarian by accident. I plucked it from my tank and I guess I was lucky because I haven't seen any since, and I def over feed this tank. So I'd say keep a sharp eye out. Pull any you see and you might get lucky like me. If you're unlucky there's a product called no planaria that people swear by.

is this the nano pump or the battery one? I feel like this thread now has a mix of comments on the two. I tore mine down and from what I can see they should be fine in any orientation. I will say though that the feet are excellent at vibration isolation so I'd try to have them sitting on their feet and not on the clip if possible. The body of the pump does vibrate quite a bit so I bet they'd benefit from being put in an enclosure of some kind(space allowing), but I haven't tested this yet. The room I have mine in already has a pretty high noise floor.

If you don't want to embrace the ph, the "standard" way to deal with it is to mix in some RO or DI water. Knowing your KH can help a lot too. If you use pH down I'd recommend using it on aged water, adding it, checking kh and ph a day later until you get to a reasonable kh (2-4 maybe?), but really thats a lot more work than mixing up RO or DI water and way more error prone.

Hard to say from still photos. Did you aclemate them? Usually shrimp are pretty mellow unless a female just molted or they're hungry and you just threw in food

Yeah! I only discovered this recently when testing the coop's new battery powered pump and measuring power consumption. The power saving principle is the same since both linear pumps and diaphragm pumps are driven (usually) by a linear motor. Edit: to pump longevity I'm not sure. Components would see more pressure. In the case of a diaphragm pump the max pressure is so low I don't think it would matter. For the linear pump I can think of reasons why it would actually last longer (less piston movement so less wear) with full pressure. But also reasons it may last less long(less air flow means less cooling, but lower power means less need for cooling so🤷‍♀️)

I actually don't think excessive pressure is a problem. Looking at how they work they would be self limiting. More air pressure looks more like a spring to the pump and not an additional load where the energy isn't returned on the back stroke. This is true for diaphragm pumps too, but not ones run on dc motors like the nano pump. Infact according to one manufacturer your just wasting energy. If you're not convinced by me though it doesn't hurt to bleed off extra air pressure. https://www.nitto-kohki.eu/en/operating-principles-en/linear-piston-pumps.html "Anti-overpressure mechanism When the output pressure exceeds the rated value the piston stroke will automatically diminish and prevent over-pressurising. At the same time, the current and power consumption will also be automatically reduced, thus eliminating possible failure caused by tentative overload. "

I don't know why I haven't come across this yet. It's pretty awesome. https://www.britannica.com/video/82480/development-rice-paddy-fish-fertilization-hatching-laboratory

Looks Nice! Do you find that the acrylic saggs over time? I made one for my 5g but gave up on it after it started sagging too much. I want to try again but I want to make sure I get it right

They make more rigid breeding boxes too.

My test strips read low too. I think there was a bad batch because Cory compared mine to another match in the same conditions and the other batch worked. I stopped caring about pH so I didn't bother replacing them. The rest of the pads works well for me as long as you use as directed.

BABIES! It's funny how one day they're not there and then the next day they're everywhere. These guys are about 2-3mm now and can walk around and swim some so they've probably been there for a few days at least. The photos don't look great, i'm really pushing my phone camera with these tiny guys, but it's still fun to share!

I'm in a hurry to boot up my tub again this year. last year I threw a heater in early but the fish mostly huddled around it. I think part of the problem was that the heater brought the temperature up too high relative to the air temp and so part of the tub was cold and part of it was warm. Besides buying a temp controller, which I'm too cheap to do, has anyone found a cheap heater that I can set to something like 60F/15C ?

Awesome! what kind are these? I just started the next generation of my "gold koi" rice fish. It's so weird to look at eggs and have them look back at you.

I've heard this a lot, and I think the idea came from one or two places and gets repeated a lot. My plastic cutting board is covered in crevasse from knife marks, and wood utensils are naturally porus too. I suspect that logic is fairly conservative. My PLA doesn't do that either, but to me that sounds like a feature! I'd love pla that actually breaks down for prints I plan on throwing away after a week.