pedrofisk
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Posts posted by pedrofisk
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My kids have two very big goldfish in a 40g breeder with an Aquaclear filer on it. The water stays cloudy so it needs more filtration. Ammonia is fine the water is just cloudy. I am thinking about the Ziss Bubble bio filer as the second filter on the aquarium rather than a sponge or second Aquaclear.
Yea? Nay? Give it a shot?
Thanks!
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What bothers me is the dearth of quality locally owned aquarium stores anymore. They still exist of course just not in the quantities they used to. They've gotten driven out of business by the big box stores and by amazon. I can't state any statistics but I think it may also be the fault of the declining popularity of the hobby in the US, at least as a share of the retail market. I live in a huge city and I only know of three really good stores, none of which are close to me at all.
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As the female gets older she'll have fewer unfertilized eggs and her spawns will get much bigger too.
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Well I have been away from the forum for over a year unfortunately. Good news is I did finish the fish room build and I have been breeding and raising with some success. I am hoping to get back to being more active here again. Here are some updates on the room.
Brine shrimp hatchery, water filtration and manifold system:
Aquarium rack:
7 x 10 gallon
4 x 20 gallon long
1 x 5 gallon
Here are a few of my breeders:
White Clouds
Gold Laser Cories
"N" Class Endlers
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A man is found guilty of keeping live sharks in his pool and offering them for sale online
By Maria Morava and Scottie Andrew, CNN
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10 minutes ago, Daniel said:
Dang! I can't even pass that *test!
Right?!
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https://www.sciencealert.com/cuttlefish-can-pass-a-cognitive-test-designed-for-children
A new test of cephalopod smarts has reinforced how important it is for us humans to not underestimate animal intelligence.
Cuttlefish have been put to a new version of the marshmallow test, and the results appear to demonstrate that there's more going on in their strange little brains than we knew.
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After getting this puppy home form the $1/gallon sale awhile back I realized it had this sticker on the bottom. Research from others with the same question would indicate it is not tempered. I can't find an indication one way or the other on the Aqueon website. I am trying to dig up a polarized filter for my camera I know I have somewhere but I was wondering if anyone had seen this label and tried drilling?
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Warning I've crashed every Daphnia culture I've fed anything except green water. Make sure to start side cultures when experimenting with food.
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I was not getting nearly the hatch rate with the Coop eggs as I was with the other major brand, let's call it brand X but we all know it is. Hopefully the secret test will help more but I have gotten it up with a few tricks.
1) they like it hot, if I get it up to around 84 degrees they hatch more.
2) they like more minerals and adding Epsom salt in with the rock salt helps. I am still not getting the same hatch rate.
3) don't overfill the amount of eggs, I hatch 3/4 to 1 teaspoon at most in 1L of water. This is in my standard 1.5L soda bottle hanging setup which is identical to Dean's old setup.
I am still not getting the same hatch rate but with the better egg separation its still worth it. My hope is Dean's secret test is not marine salt. I need to pay $5 for 20lbs of salt (big box store pure rock salt) not $20 for 20lbs of marine salt which is the price I see online.
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This weekend I drilled most of the 10g aquariums. Turns out it really is easy after all.
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2 hours ago, gardenman said:
I was just posting on another thread and remembered an old filter that I liked made by Wardley called the Sandman. It was a fluidized bed sand filter as a hang on back. It had some design issues but it got me thinking about maybe someone making a hang on back filter that used K1 or a similar type of media. We've all seen the soda bottles inside a tank with K1 media bouncing around. I've seen sumps using K1 media (both above and below tank sumps.) Why not a HOB filter that uses K1 media? You'd need a prefilter chamber to remove suspended solids then a sealed chamber with the right flow for the K1, then an outlet. Maybe sneak in a compartment for carbon or other materials also. It should be doable. As far as I can tell no one's done it though. You can buy reactor chambers to use as a K1 filter but they're mostly for the marine hobby and for use in sumps. That could be a pretty neat HOB option for aquarists. K1 media is widely used by koi keepers also. I've still got that old Sandman filter someplace. Maybe I'll pick up some K1 media and see what I can do with it in the Sandman.
Well the Coop carries an internal K1 filter.
https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/filtration/products/ziss-bubble-bio-moving-bed-filter
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I'm struggling to get swords to grow in my 55. To be honest they grew better before I got the Fluval 3.
I've got it pretty cranked down with a long photo period. I heard swords like a long day. Not sure. I also give root tabs once a month.
The amber and red are to give a more sunrise and sunset look. Any advice is appreciated.
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I have had Otos bred on their own in a couple of tanks over the years. I have had them survive when there is plenty of surface algae for them to graze on. If you don't have any in your tank maybe you can put a small piece of wood in something else under intense light to try and grow some quickly.
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Unfortunately I have no advice. i love these fish but have not yet kept them. I'd look up similar tetra species if you can't find something on them specifically. I know there are a few techniques for tetras in general.
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Nice and lucky. We have so few LFS here and they are all far apart. Every one I've inquired with is always "we take rescue fish only". I am getting into breeding more now and would like a place to send them for re-homing, store credit would be secondary.
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15 minutes ago, s1_ said:
i have pretty much the exact same manifold you have pictured. the only difference is solenoid valves where your valves are and I restrict the entire manifold with 1 of your pictured valves at the supply line in post filtration.
Nice setup, I haven't seen one quite like that before.
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So after further experimenting I can control the flow enough with the 1/4" shut-off valves I can put at each tank. It's maybe not ideal as it leaves room for human error but I can still always try the restrictors later without changing anything else. Here's a mock-up:
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15 hours ago, tolstoy21 said:
@pedrofisk Water pressure and water flow rate are two different concepts. What you need is a flow restrictor.
You have two options -- You can go with individual restrictors that install into each of 1/4 water line. or just plumb a single restrictor into your 3/4" plumbing.
The 1/4" restrictors can be found anywhere that sells RO equipment and supplies. You simply slip them into the RO line, where it meets a push to connect fitting.
The restrictors that are sized more for standard plumbing can be found at any good plumbing supply place online. These come in a wide range of flow rates. As a reference, a typical modern sink faucet runs at about about 2.2 GPM.
Just do a google search for flow restrictors and you'll come up with a bunch of stuff.
I restrict my water down to 0.5 GPM, as I need this specific rate to optimize contact time of the water within the media in some of my resin filters. I do also have a pressure reducer that reduces the pressure down to 30PSI, but this is so I don't exceed the recommended pressure for my drip emitters and accidentally blow one off.
You could also probably restrict flow in a number of other 'hacked' ways, like via a gate valve or ball valve. But I'd go with a restrictor.
Not 100% sure about the linking-to-products policy in this forum, but this is the one I use as it's reasonably priced -->
Flo-Et Flow Restrictor V7A071C1, 3/4" MPT x 3/4" MPT, PVC | Serv-A-Pure
WWW.SERVAPURE.COMThanks that is very interesting. I had not come across those constrictors before, I'll lok into them.
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15 hours ago, tolstoy21 said:
@pedrofisk Water pressure and water flow rate are two different concepts. What you need is a flow restrictor.
You have two options -- You can go with individual restrictors that install into each of 1/4 water line. or just plumb a single restrictor into your 3/4" plumbing.
The 1/4" restrictors can be found anywhere that sells RO equipment and supplies. You simply slip them into the RO line, where it meets a push to connect fitting.
The restrictors that are sized more for standard plumbing can be found at any good plumbing supply place online. These come in a wide range of flow rates. As a reference, a typical modern sink faucet runs at about about 2.2 GPM.
Just do a google search for flow restrictors and you'll come up with a bunch of stuff.
I restrict my water down to 0.5 GPM, as I need this specific rate to optimize contact time of the water within the media in some of my resin filters. I do also have a pressure reducer that reduces the pressure down to 30PSI, but this is so I don't exceed the recommended pressure for my drip emitters and accidentally blow one off.
You could also probably restrict flow in a number of other 'hacked' ways, like via a gate valve or ball valve. But I'd go with a restrictor.
Not 100% sure about the linking-to-products policy in this forum, but this is the one I use as it's reasonably priced -->
Flo-Et Flow Restrictor V7A071C1, 3/4" MPT x 3/4" MPT, PVC | Serv-A-Pure
WWW.SERVAPURE.COMThanks that is very interesting. I had not come across those constrictors before, I'll lok into them.
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I am setting up my filtered fresh water system to my new multi-tank rack . Right now I am using a Senninger 25 PSI pressure reducer for 3/4" line pressure (about 50psi according to the gauge) to 1/4" irrigation lines running to the tank. At 25 PSI it is coming out way to fast unless I have multiple valves open. Only thing is I want the ability to fill just one tank at a time too.
They also have 10 and 15 PSI reducers. I am interested if anyone has any experience or advice setting up these systems. Thanks in advance!
My system (pressure reducers at bottom):
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10 hours ago, josh world said:
looking good where did you get that check valve from though
Supplyhouse.com
I did a lot of research for pvc fitting online retailors and they had the best deals and good customer service. I got everything except the pipe from them. My local big box almost never had what I needed.
I don't think posting their link is a conflict of the forum policy as thier is no overlap in products with the Coop but moderators please let me know.
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1 hour ago, Bill Smith said:
Very nicely laid out!
Question: What's the purpose of a check valve in the bucket? You're not expecting a vertical backflow there, are you?
Thanks! The sump pump manufacturer strongly recommends it so I figure I better for warranty reasons. There does seem to be standing water in the vertical section of the pipe once it shuts off. I think the check valve will help keep it from turning on/off repeatedly. The path from the pump to the sink is a highly sub-optimal so it is what it is.
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Step by step progress. I am trying to do a big push during this, the slowest week of the year. Yesterday I got the fill system mostly done from the thermostatic valve, through the filter to the manifold. The thermostatic mixing valve is on a temp mount I need to redo. I need to finish gluing the mainfold and add more support brackets. The OXO meat thermometer is reading the water as 3-4 degrees hotter than my infrared thermometer does so I'll have to figure that out. The pressure gauge works great and was only $3.45. I also finished the drain sump pump with a fancier check valve and got it all glued up.
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Ziss Bubble as a 2nd filter for 40g Breeder with 2 big goldfish a good idea?
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks all. It's definitely not the substrate getting kicked up as I just have a thin layer of black gravel. The Aquaclear has the Coop polishing pads in addition to the sponge and some crushed coral. More mechanical filtration may very well be the solution still.
I suppose if I get the Ziss for bio filtration then I can put more mechanical media in the Aquaclear. I'm just trying to avoid a second Aquaclear but that's also an option of course.