Frank
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Everything posted by Frank
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@Cory, the forum sponsor, gives 0.5 ppm ammonia, 0.5 ppm nitrite, and 40 ppm nitrate as guidelines for relatively safe upper limits.
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Whatever you decide, if those are the same brand lids as mine, you might consider turning the handles "wrong" side front. My handles were designed more for looks than function. Try it before you stick them on.
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Not to help. Just to hide the crack.
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How about some colored plastic film, or sheet, between the two panes of glass?
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I think that you misread my post. A canister filter could be put inside of a large flower pot, a woven basket, an inlaid wood box, a pvc sewer pipe with marble patterned plastic wrap, or a lot of other things imaginable. But, there are these: https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/ada/canister-filter
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You could get the ugliest filter, in the world, and put it in a decorative container.
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At 14? Maybe? Somewhere around there. Had some goldfish in a steel framed 10 gallon tank. I killed them all, but I was hooked. Then I moved up to a huge 29 gallon plastic rimmed job. I wonder what happened to Dynaflo filters. I'd rather have one of those, than the current crop of hang-on-back filters. I kept four cichlids, a half dozen cardinal tetras, and a betta until I got a job that wouldn't allow me to care for them. (Insert 45 years here: ... ) I started January 6, 2021.
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- introduction
- how long
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As long as you keep the filter wet, and keep some flow going through it, your bacteria will be ok. If you lower the water level so much that you can't use the filter, but keep the media wet, with tank water, the bacteria will be ok for a while. I dunno for how long.
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Sorry to hear of your tragedies. I have a couple of questions: What living creatures are in there? Are those marimo moss balls?
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Back to the original question: If you're finding it difficult to determine the color, make sure that it's well mixed; so there's no concentrated color fliating on top. Then, take the cap off and look down through the entire column of the solution.
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There are online calculators to help convert volume of substrate to its weight. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=aquarium+gravel+calculator&t=fpas&ia=web This one allows you to enter just about any possible type/brand of substrate imaginable: https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/gravel-rectangular-solid
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There should, eventually, be some level of nitrates showing up; more or less permanently. The seed bacteria are essentially that. Seeds. It still takes a while for them to grow and establish. Using those products only speeds the process. They don't make it instantaneous.
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👍
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Your nitrate level probably is about zero, for now. But did you follow the directions exactly? For that test, the second bottle must be shaken hard, then the test tube must be shaken hard. Seriously hard. Like take it to the paint store and have them put it in the paint shaker. That kind of hard.
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I'm only telling you what my local fish store owner told me. She said that she's never read any medication instructions say that they couldn't be used along with salt.
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I suggest talking to Mike Bieler https://www.cloudynights.com/user/3815-astronomics/ https://www.astronomics.com/ That guy owns/supports a fantastic, family friendly, hobby website. It is the best online resource in it's field.
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If you don't add livestock, you'll have to feed all of that bacteria, that you imported, some other way. If you're planning on adding shrimp, or otocinclus, plan on giving them supplemental foods.
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when is the soonest I can add fish to uncycled aquarium
Frank replied to Lemon's topic in General Discussion
I don't know how big your tank is, what your water is like, or what your stocking plans are. Personally, given that you have added material from an established tank, I think that you should add fish now. Not many. Just like about 10% of your final goal. Test the water every day. If it looks good, after a week of testing, add 10% more. They should be ordinary fish - ones that eat regular fish food. No otocinclus or plecostomus. As long as the water tests out OK, I would keep adding small numbers of fish each week. If ammonia or nitrite gets above 0.25ppm, I would wait for it to get back down below that. -
Well, I don't have any advice to offer. But, that is a pretty planting job!
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Today, my little guy appears to be 100% healthy, but I'm having trouble being sure. He just won't let me get a good look at him. Regardless, he'll get the full treatment. That means he'll get another dose, tomorrow. Then, it's another 48hrs wait. The question now is: how rapidly can I re-acclimate him to the community tank water?
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Another question: How tall should I let the sprouts get, before I move it? Do they break off easily?
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Cool! Mine will be hidden behind a rock; with the leaves poking up above it. I hope!
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- dwarf lily
- planting bulbs
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Thanks! I would have to do some serious excavation, in order to bury it, where it's going.
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Everywhere that I read, people say to wait until the bulb sprouts, then bury it halfway. But, the directions say that it can be planted halfway; after it sprouted. Is it OK to leave the bulb on top of the substrate? Or, must it be planted halfway? P.S. It looks more like a tuber, to me. Thanks!
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I like the 15 gallon size tank. Because, it's what I have. I also like the proportions. I think it looks better than a 20.
