Jim Fox

I will probably use both filters for a while until the plants have gotten better established and will then cut back to the sponge filter and monitor the water quality over the following month. If things start to head south, I can always start the second filter back up or add another sponge filter. I used the bio-stars from the established cannister filter and the water from the big aquarium to help move the cycling process forward. I still figure a few weeks though for the process to be completed. I appreciate the comments and suggestions.

I have a successful 55 gallon freshwater aquarium that has been in use for almost 20 years. I have an older Fluval cannister filter system (coarse and medium sponge filters and bio-stars), a variety of live plants, and a 5watt UV light/powerhead that runs a few hours a day to keep the water clear, etc. Fish are primarily tetras, a kissing Gourami, Bristlenose Pleco, Cory Catfish, and a few Nertile snails. I recently decided to bring my 10 gallon aquarium out of storage and create a new aquarium with black small gravel substrate and live plants with the idea of doing more tetras along with either shrimp or a Betta fish. I have set the aquarium up and actually transferred about 5 gallons of water from the 55 gallon tank into the 10 gallon to help get the nitrate cycle going quicker. As for lighting, the big tank has a Fluval LED while the 10 gallon just has an Aqueon LED econo hood that seems to give pretty good lighting for the plants but isn't as adaptable as the Fluval which is awesone! As for filtration, this is my question: I have a Fluval Nano filter which I can supercharge with some of the bio-stars from the big Fluval cannister filter or I could use a sponge filter with airstone I recently got from aquarium co-op. Or, I could use both although I would prefer to use just one of them since I will probably also want to put in a UV light to run periodically to help keep the water clear. I was curious as to what others would recommend and/or suggest. I always enjoy compare notes from other aquarium lovers.

Thanks for the feedback. I think that it is time to remove the glass plates for a while and see what happens.

I have a 55 gallon planted tank with several tetras, a couple of plecos, a Kissing Gourami, 3 albino cory fish and some nertile snails. The aquarium is pretty stable and since I started using Easy Green and more recently, the Easy Root Tabs, the plants are doing better as well. I have a Fluval 3.0 LED light. I also have a pair of glass plates on top of the aquarium that I originally used to help reduce evaporation during the winter months and to keep the occasional fish from jumping out and ending their lives on the floor! At this point, I am thinking of adding a couple of floating plants but wonder if I should remove the glass plates? I am sure it would help the light penetrate better and I have read where floating plants do better without the glass plates on top. Appreciate input from others and their experiences with this issue and floating plants.

Rebecca, thank for your thoughts and I really appreciate the recommendations. I ended up doing what you suggested which is to put a cup of new substrate in a cup at a time around the areas where the plants are located. I do a little at a time so any "dust" kicked up with the new substrate is limited and once things settle down I add a little more the next day. I am also starting to use root tabs for the stem plants. As for the temperature, I average about 77 degrees whith the high hitting 78+ during the late day and things cooling down overnight. I will reset the temperature back down to 74 degrees which is where I used to keep it until I read that the plants preferred the warmer temperature. I have a tank of tetras along with a bristlenose. I always appreciate the thoughts of more experienced aquarium lovers.

That is sort of the conclusion that I have come to as well. No reason to upset the entire aquarium, just start adding some in specific spots and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions both from yourself and all the others.

Sounds like a good idea.

Thanks for your thoughts Roy. I have thought about CO2 but not ready to go there yet. SInce I have purchased the Fluval Stratem I would like to use it but just want to avoid hurting the fish as I introduce it to the aquarium.

I have an established (over 10 years) 55 gallon tank with some live plants and fish that currently has about 2 inches of gravel. The plants are doing OK but not great as I am still learning more of the basics of taking care of plants in an aquarium. I added the plants in the last year. I have started adding Easy Green weekly, checking my water and keeping a log, added a Fluval 3.0 light and figured improving the substrate would be the next piece to address. I bought some Fluval Stratum (2 x 8lb bags) to add to the existing gravel to help improve the substrate for the plants as well as hopefully help reduce the water pH from 8.1 down a little into the 6's or 7's as I think this will help the plants as well. The question is how best to add the new substrate to have the least negative impact upon the fish in the aquarium? Should I just put a little in at a time on top of the gravel or remove the gravel from part of the aquarium and then mix or layer the substrates back one section at a time or is there abetter way of doing this process. By the way, current water parameters are pH 8.0, KH around 290 ppm, GH around 25 ppm, nitrates around 20-25 ppm. I keep the water temperature around 77-79 degrees F. I am on a well with an all house carbon filter and water softener as hardness is 625 ppm ( 35-40 grain) before softener. Post softener is pH 7.5, KH 304 ppm, GH <17ppm, and 0 nitrates.

I suspect that the substrate is buffering the water but not sure what to replace it with from the aquarium store. Any suggestions? If what I have is staghorn and/or black beard algae, what recommendations would folks make to slowly remove?

I am on well water that I soften due to water hardness of around 60 grain and it has a pH out of the tap of 7.2 to 7.4 but after a 30% water change and waiting a day or so, the aquarium pH is 8.2 with nitrates below 30 ppm. I have java ferns and some anubias plants. For fish, mostly a variety of tetras, a 7 inch BN pleco, 3 albino corydoras, and a single kissing Gourami. All the fish have been with me for over a year, some as much as 4-5 years. I started plants about a year ago and use Easy Green. The substrate is just typical aquarium stones and I have 2 large pieces of driftwood that have been in the aquarium for years. My question is, what is causing my pH to stay up at the 8.2 range? Second, my Anubia plants are growing but all the leaves seem to have a grey/blackish beard around their edges. I attached a picture. Just curious as to what this might be and any suggestions for preventing. The plants keep putting out new leaves but after a month or so get this grey beard. Is it algae?

I would be happy to but did a water change and cleaned off the algae this afternoon.

Thanks for the responses. I will start by changing the fertilizer dosage to a single pump every other day for the next month and see what happens. I normally use a plastic scraper to remove the algae every few weeks or when it gets heavy enough to bother me. If I can possibly avoid using chemical treatments unless necessary, I feel much more comfortable.

I have a 55 gallon freshwater planted aquarium. I have mostly tetras along with a couple of pleco bristlenose. I do a water change about every 10-14 days of around 20% and utilize a Fluval light and with sunrise from 7:45 to 10 AM, daylight at around 55% until 5PM with sunset going until 9PM. So, total light is over 12 hours but the higher light setting is for around 7 hours at 50% with gradual shoulders on either side. Over a period of a few weeks, I get green algae growing mostly on the back glass of the aquarium with smaller amounts on the sides and front. Light position is in middle of tank (front to back). Any suggestion on ways to reduce this algae growth? The plants appear to be doing OK and I dose with Easy Green every 10 days with 5 pumps. I also have Nitrile snails. I have thought about using some of the chemical algae controls like Tetra's Algae Control but am concerned about using it with my plants, fish, and snails. The label says it is safe but I would like thoughts from others.

Thanks for the replies and the comments make sense. I will limit the use of medications to any new fish who will get treated in the quarantine tank or the time when or if I see problems in the main aquarium and then treat only the suspected culprit.

I have a 55-gallon freshwater tank and it has been up and running for 15 years. I mainly keep tetras of different types, two plecos, and a few other fish for a total of around 20 fish and have had very good luck over the years with the longevity of my fish, often going several years without losing a fish. I also started putting live plants into the aquarium last year and feel this has improved the appearance and water quality of the aquarium as well as making the fish less stressed. I do a 25-30% water change every week or so, use a Fluval canister filter, and keep the water temperature at around 75 degrees and have a Fluval plant light. My question is whether it makes sense to proactively medicate fish with Mardel Maracyn, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, and Fritz ParaCleanse a few times a year as a preventative measure or should I just keep these medicines on hand in case an outbreak occurs?

Appreciate the response, I will buy the Fluval light through the Aquarium Co-op online store but make a visit to my area Petco to get the glass covers. That is where I also purchase my fish, etc. even though they are a national chain, I try to support them where I can so I have a retail store I can visit.

I also wanted to say that I enjoy the forum and have liked the customer service and quick responses I have seen to my orders. Do you also sell the glass covers for aquariums? I did not see them on the online store.

Thanks, my instincts told me the same thing but wanted to get additional opinions before dropping the money for the new light and glass covers.

I am using the Easy Green. I started out doing 4-5 squirts per week but after a month had algae starting to explode so I cut back to 1-2 strokes per week. Algae eventually got under control but a few months later started to see the Java Ferns starting to go down hill. I also wanted to add more plants that require medium light and doubt that the Marineland LED's provide sufficient light. With the nitrates running up to 50 or so, I was hesitant to increase the Easy Green.

I have a 55 gallon aquarium currently using two Marineland covers with LED lights. Since I started adding live plants, I have found that the Anubias are doing fine after 6 months but the Java Ferns are slowly dying off. First the leaves get brown spots and over several weeks die and need to be removed. All plants are attached to rocks via string, rubber band, or super glue. Water chemistry is generally OK with pH of 7.6, nitrites and ammonia at near zero and nitrates fluctuate between 20 and 50. I want to add more plants to help with nitrates and for appearance so I am considering adding a Fluval 3.0 LED light to be able to provide more light to the plants. The aquarium measures 12 inches by 48 inches with a divider bar in the middle. Height is 18 inches. Should I get the 36 inch/46 watt or 48inch/59 watt light? Also, once I remove the existing Marineland covers, should I replace them with glass covers to reduce evaporation and fish jumping out of the tank or is there something else people would recommend?

I am using a Fluval tank filter system with sponge filters as well as the bio media to handle the biologicals. I also use an inside tank UV light/pump that I run 6-8 hours daily to keep bacteria under control and help keep the water clear. These have been in the aquarium for several years with no bio-film forming until I added the live plants. The "returns" for these pumps discharge the water back into the tank from 3-5 inches below the surface. Sounds like I might try and relocate the UV light/pump to the end of the aquarium and have the discharge close to the system to create some agitation on the surface for several hours a day. I appreciate the response. There is always something to learn.

I finally got rid of my artificial plants after 20 years and went to live plants in my 55 gallon freshwater aquarium about 3 months ago. Things appear to be going well, the plants appear healthy as I give them a shot or two of aquarium coops easy green every week. I have java ferns and Anubis plants. I attached the plants to the rocks, etc. with both string and super glue. The fish appear to love swimming in and through the plants as well. I have noticed however a layer of what looks like a protein scum or something that is forming on the surface of the water. Do I need to add a protein skimmer like we use on salt water aquariums? Is this normal with live planted aquariums?

I appreciate the feedback. I will drop the lights back a few more hours and reduce the amount of Easy Green to 1-2 pumps per week. I also usually do a 15% water change every 10-14 days as well. As for the plants, I have used super glue and have attached them to the wood and rocks. Initially, I tried planting them but then just glued them so the rhizomes are above the substrate. My plecos tended to uproot them anyway and now they just get scooted around a little bit. I will be planning on adding more plants soon as this has created an entirely new dimension to this great hobby.

I have a 50 gallon freshwater aquarium that has been established for 15 years and recently decided to move from the plastic plants to live plants. I bought several Java and Anubias from the Aquarium Coop along with a bottle of the Easy Green. The plants have been in the aquarium for 6-8 weeks and the plants appear to be doing pretty well. The fish seem to really enjoy swimming through the live plants especially the Java Ferns. The Java Fern Windelov has started to show signs of hair algae on the ends of the plants. The fish have been nibbling at it and I cut back the length of the lights from 14 hours to around 10 hours and that seems to be keeping it at bay. It has not shown up on the other plants either. I checked for nitrates and they were running between 25 and 50 with 0 Nitrites. I use a Fluval filter with biological treatment and filtration and have not lost a fish in over a year. What should the nitrates be running when I am also adding 5 pumps of Easy Green per week for my 50 gallon aquarium? Should I add less Easy Green to reduce the nitrates? Appreciate any advice for this newby.