Jim Fox

I will probably use both filters for a while until the plants have gotten better established and will then cut back to the sponge filter and monitor the water quality over the following month. If things start to head south, I can always start the second filter back up or add another sponge filter. I used the bio-stars from the established cannister filter and the water from the big aquarium to help move the cycling process forward. I still figure a few weeks though for the process to be completed. I appreciate the comments and suggestions.

I have a successful 55 gallon freshwater aquarium that has been in use for almost 20 years. I have an older Fluval cannister filter system (coarse and medium sponge filters and bio-stars), a variety of live plants, and a 5watt UV light/powerhead that runs a few hours a day to keep the water clear, etc. Fish are primarily tetras, a kissing Gourami, Bristlenose Pleco, Cory Catfish, and a few Nertile snails. I recently decided to bring my 10 gallon aquarium out of storage and create a new aquarium with black small gravel substrate and live plants with the idea of doing more tetras along with either shrimp or a Betta fish. I have set the aquarium up and actually transferred about 5 gallons of water from the 55 gallon tank into the 10 gallon to help get the nitrate cycle going quicker. As for lighting, the big tank has a Fluval LED while the 10 gallon just has an Aqueon LED econo hood that seems to give pretty good lighting for the plants but isn't as adaptable as the Fluval which is awesone! As for filtration, this is my question: I have a Fluval Nano filter which I can supercharge with some of the bio-stars from the big Fluval cannister filter or I could use a sponge filter with airstone I recently got from aquarium co-op. Or, I could use both although I would prefer to use just one of them since I will probably also want to put in a UV light to run periodically to help keep the water clear. I was curious as to what others would recommend and/or suggest. I always enjoy compare notes from other aquarium lovers.

Thanks for the feedback. I think that it is time to remove the glass plates for a while and see what happens.

I have a 55 gallon planted tank with several tetras, a couple of plecos, a Kissing Gourami, 3 albino cory fish and some nertile snails. The aquarium is pretty stable and since I started using Easy Green and more recently, the Easy Root Tabs, the plants are doing better as well. I have a Fluval 3.0 LED light. I also have a pair of glass plates on top of the aquarium that I originally used to help reduce evaporation during the winter months and to keep the occasional fish from jumping out and ending their lives on the floor! At this point, I am thinking of adding a couple of floating plants but wonder if I should remove the glass plates? I am sure it would help the light penetrate better and I have read where floating plants do better without the glass plates on top. Appreciate input from others and their experiences with this issue and floating plants.

Rebecca, thank for your thoughts and I really appreciate the recommendations. I ended up doing what you suggested which is to put a cup of new substrate in a cup at a time around the areas where the plants are located. I do a little at a time so any "dust" kicked up with the new substrate is limited and once things settle down I add a little more the next day. I am also starting to use root tabs for the stem plants. As for the temperature, I average about 77 degrees whith the high hitting 78+ during the late day and things cooling down overnight. I will reset the temperature back down to 74 degrees which is where I used to keep it until I read that the plants preferred the warmer temperature. I have a tank of tetras along with a bristlenose. I always appreciate the thoughts of more experienced aquarium lovers.

That is sort of the conclusion that I have come to as well. No reason to upset the entire aquarium, just start adding some in specific spots and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions both from yourself and all the others.

Sounds like a good idea.

Thanks for your thoughts Roy. I have thought about CO2 but not ready to go there yet. SInce I have purchased the Fluval Stratem I would like to use it but just want to avoid hurting the fish as I introduce it to the aquarium.

I have an established (over 10 years) 55 gallon tank with some live plants and fish that currently has about 2 inches of gravel. The plants are doing OK but not great as I am still learning more of the basics of taking care of plants in an aquarium. I added the plants in the last year. I have started adding Easy Green weekly, checking my water and keeping a log, added a Fluval 3.0 light and figured improving the substrate would be the next piece to address. I bought some Fluval Stratum (2 x 8lb bags) to add to the existing gravel to help improve the substrate for the plants as well as hopefully help reduce the water pH from 8.1 down a little into the 6's or 7's as I think this will help the plants as well. The question is how best to add the new substrate to have the least negative impact upon the fish in the aquarium? Should I just put a little in at a time on top of the gravel or remove the gravel from part of the aquarium and then mix or layer the substrates back one section at a time or is there abetter way of doing this process. By the way, current water parameters are pH 8.0, KH around 290 ppm, GH around 25 ppm, nitrates around 20-25 ppm. I keep the water temperature around 77-79 degrees F. I am on a well with an all house carbon filter and water softener as hardness is 625 ppm ( 35-40 grain) before softener. Post softener is pH 7.5, KH 304 ppm, GH <17ppm, and 0 nitrates.

I suspect that the substrate is buffering the water but not sure what to replace it with from the aquarium store. Any suggestions? If what I have is staghorn and/or black beard algae, what recommendations would folks make to slowly remove?

I am on well water that I soften due to water hardness of around 60 grain and it has a pH out of the tap of 7.2 to 7.4 but after a 30% water change and waiting a day or so, the aquarium pH is 8.2 with nitrates below 30 ppm. I have java ferns and some anubias plants. For fish, mostly a variety of tetras, a 7 inch BN pleco, 3 albino corydoras, and a single kissing Gourami. All the fish have been with me for over a year, some as much as 4-5 years. I started plants about a year ago and use Easy Green. The substrate is just typical aquarium stones and I have 2 large pieces of driftwood that have been in the aquarium for years. My question is, what is causing my pH to stay up at the 8.2 range? Second, my Anubia plants are growing but all the leaves seem to have a grey/blackish beard around their edges. I attached a picture. Just curious as to what this might be and any suggestions for preventing. The plants keep putting out new leaves but after a month or so get this grey beard. Is it algae?

I would be happy to but did a water change and cleaned off the algae this afternoon.

Thanks for the responses. I will start by changing the fertilizer dosage to a single pump every other day for the next month and see what happens. I normally use a plastic scraper to remove the algae every few weeks or when it gets heavy enough to bother me. If I can possibly avoid using chemical treatments unless necessary, I feel much more comfortable.

I have a 55 gallon freshwater planted aquarium. I have mostly tetras along with a couple of pleco bristlenose. I do a water change about every 10-14 days of around 20% and utilize a Fluval light and with sunrise from 7:45 to 10 AM, daylight at around 55% until 5PM with sunset going until 9PM. So, total light is over 12 hours but the higher light setting is for around 7 hours at 50% with gradual shoulders on either side. Over a period of a few weeks, I get green algae growing mostly on the back glass of the aquarium with smaller amounts on the sides and front. Light position is in middle of tank (front to back). Any suggestion on ways to reduce this algae growth? The plants appear to be doing OK and I dose with Easy Green every 10 days with 5 pumps. I also have Nitrile snails. I have thought about using some of the chemical algae controls like Tetra's Algae Control but am concerned about using it with my plants, fish, and snails. The label says it is safe but I would like thoughts from others.

Thanks for the replies and the comments make sense. I will limit the use of medications to any new fish who will get treated in the quarantine tank or the time when or if I see problems in the main aquarium and then treat only the suspected culprit.