GGobblin

Really ? My Pink tail just kinda hangs, unless it's food time. He is a little skiddish, I've seem him freak for the slightest thing, and man, can that fish move. One if the fastest I've seen, even hurts himself bashing into things.... Love that fish tho

Thanks. Most of my guys are mild mannered. The one I worry most about it the Green Terror when he gets bigger. He is almost 4" and well mannered at the moment. Really like to have variety and Archers would be kool. My Pink Tail Chalceus is about the only top dweller I have. He is 6" but not aggressive at all.

Can Archer Fish go with Severums, Parrots, Geophagus, Firemouth, Acara Fish? Most currenty between 4 and 6in. 75gal currently moving to a 230gal. Any experience with this mix ? What size do Archers max at ? Thx

Yeah, I can even build my own controller. I will be using 2 heaters, just not sure if 2x 300w heaters will maintain 78 in a 96x24x24. Room temp is 70

Have a Finnex 300w Deluxe Titanium heater with 810 Finnex controller on my 75gal glass tank, maintaining 78 degrees like a champ. I'm moving up to an Acrylic 240gal 96x24x24 and was wondering if I can just add another, so 600w total. I know acrylic retains heat better and I like to keep the wattage down incase one gets stuck on. A 300w stuck heater won't be enough to cook my fish. Question is, will 600w be enough given the difference in tank size and more efficient materials ?

My yellow firemouth is not even close to biggest. Some fish are 2 to 3in bigger. I think I'll try it. I will post a YouTube link to my tank after I add new fish. They are going to love the 240. (96x24x24) Thanks for the input.

Is test and chart current, not expired ? Color in my tests are way closer to the chart. You may have something in the water that is changing the color hue a bit. When I look at my tests under 5000k white light, they are very close to chart. Does seem to be in the 8.2 range. I tried the Coop test strips, but they are wildly off from my API liquid I been using for a decade, especially the PH.

Currently have few dif Severums, few dif Geophagus, Blood Parrot, Electric Blue Acara, Pink tail Chalceus, Flag Tail Protulotus and a Yellow Firemouth. Lots of lavarock and nice driftwood piece. Yes I know it's overstocked. Nitrates are 10 to 20 and fish super healthy. Moving to a 240gal in Spring. Tank is super stable, test every 2 months I would love to add a traditional red Firemouth with my more rare amazing yellow one. Yellow one is about 4in. Would add a min 3" red one to my 75, then to the 240 of course. Concerned they might fight. I know if I get male / female that might ratchet up things. I'm pretty sure they'd be fine in the 240, wondering about a couple months in the 75... Ideas ?

Will report back, thanks for the advice. This is a nice fish, hate to lose it, but worse, I'd hate to infect my main tank and possible lose many nice fish.

Will do. How long does he sit in the meds. Is it a one time dose, or a few days then redose after partial water change ?

I have Levamisole, will try that next. Should I combine salt and Levamisole ?

The 2 dots themselves are raised, not the eye itself, doesn't even seem cloudy. When I look at him head on I can see they protrude a bit. 1st thought it was a fungus of some sort. Still might be, who knows. Have not treated with anything but Maracyn and Paracleanse. I'm hesitant to add him to my Cichlid main tank. Don't want to put any of my treasured fish in jeopardy.

My newly acquired Rainbow Cichlid came with 2 yellow spots in right eye. Eye isn't swollen and other eye is fine. He us eating and behaving pretty normal except for those dots. Think they are a parasite of some kind. They have not changed in size or appearance over the last 2 weeks of treatment with Maracyn and Paracleanse. Was thinking of trying salt, 1 TBLSP per Gallon but not sure if that dosage is strong enough, but not lethal, or if it will even help. Nothing has helped thus far, and I'm hesitant to put him in my main tank as he is. Anyone see this before, have ideas ? Pics attached GG

My 3" Green Terror stopped eating out of nowhere. Weirdly, so did my Electric Blue Acara. This seemed to be more than coincidence, so I tested water, did water change, offered frozen brine, nothing. After a few days, I medicated with Maracyn and Paraguard. I do normally add a small amount of salt to my water, but only about 1 TBLSP per 5gal with each water change. 2 days later, Electric Blue started eating again. GT, still nothing. No visible signs of trauma, no bullying, that's fir sure. My other Severum, Synodontis and Geophagus are all ravenous eaters throughout. I'm thinking maybe an internal parasite. Then yesterday, I saw him dragging a long white poop string (pictured). Thinking he is passing something ? Any ideas, be appreciated. He is a great fish, hate to lose him.

Well, I called Aqueon. They say all their 40B do that, it's normal and fine. I still don't love the idea, but am going to stick with. In my opinion, if it bows, a center brace is needed. They are probably just looking to cut costs. Thanks to all that have provided feedback. GG

Just filled my Aqueon 40gal Breeder that I bought from Petco and noticed the front glass is bowing out in middle. This brand does not use a center brace. Tank was leak tested, back painted. Only after adding the Aqueon glass canopy did I notice the gap between the canopy and frame when looking down from top. I ran a 4ft level across the front glass, left to right, sure enough, the middle bows out over 1/8". I did same test on my Marineland 75gal, has brace, and glass is straight after 2 years. My stand is perfectly level left to right and less than 1/16" off front to back, (leaning toward back, very slightly). It makes full contact with the solid top of the stand. Stand by itself measures same with a level. So I figure this amount outside of perfect is a non issue. I've never had anything over a 20gal that does not have a brace. When looking around the net many say it's okay, others say no good. Most seem to say, if it didn't come with brace, it dies not need one. I think Marineland and All Glass make theirs with a brace.But not easy to find these in my area. Not sure what to do. Tank is on a 2nd floor and a blowout would Not Be Good. I know Aqueon 40 breeders are super popular, so for those of you that have them, please chime in. Need help, can't proceed at this point and need to get fish in there, but not at the cost of a disaster. Thank You GG

Yes, I know salt does not evaporate, but, thank you for the mention. Going to change water, then add the salt for a week see how he is doing.

I have a 3" yellow firemouth in quarantine 10gal bare bottom hospital tank. I want to dose salt, thinking 3 Tablespoons for the 10gal. Not sure what it can safely tolerate....

Yeah, don't think it's hole in the head. Fish is not lacking in nutrition or vitamins, minerals. I add them. It looks fresh, like he tore skin on rocks, just not 100%. Yes I'll monitor, don't want bacterial infection to set in. Appreciate the input. Thx

78degrees, 0 Amon, 0 nitrite, 30nitra, 7.0ph.

My Hero Severum had what I think is a wound on his side. Was not there yesterday. He is about 5 1/2 inches long and thick. Eats well and great color, appears very healthy. I'm thinking he might have scraped himself on an edge of lava rock which I have throughout the tank. Just hoping it's not disease, but I don't think so. Wanted to get additional opinions. I will add some extra salt at next water change, maybe help him heal ? Add stress coat ? Any input would be appreciated 👍 Thx GG

I have a sponge filter from a cycled tank, a ziss moving bed filter and a large lava rock from an established tank. Looks like around 50 fry, mostly at bottom. Been feeding live baby brine shrimp, hard to see if they are actually eating them tho. Temp, ph, ammonia, nitrite are perfect. Will let nitrate test tell me when to do 25% water change, but thinking once a week. That's my situation and plan. Any criticism or advice is appreciated. Not a first time aquarist but 1st time fry owner. Of course I can just dump them in my SA Cichlid tank and call it a day...JK. Love parrot fish, hope most, if not all, live.

My platinum and polar blue just had eggs hatch, well hatched 2 days ago. Can just make out eyes, tail. Still have a little sack on. Is it best to move them out, have a unused 10 gal tank, or use breeding net, in tank. I've read about instances with the breeding net being compromised and babies sucked out, or tiny fry swimming out through holes in netting. I'm thinking keeping them in same water is less stress, but having a whole tank, free from threats is another option, but there is the issue of new tank syndrome. Should they even be moved at all yet.They are being protected by mom now, but not swimming out yet. I'd move a sponge filter from current tank, swap 25% water from old tank to new, add stability daily. Temp will be same, ill get ph same. Think it be safe to move them ?What is best to feed them. Been putting vita-chem in their current water with food soak. Thank you for the help. Really great fish, hope I can raise them all up.

It's a Blue Eye Lemon Bushynose, but that black around 1 eye shouldn't be there. I have another in a different tank that it didn't happen to. Nor sure if it's a fungus, or wound but it's been a while, has not gotten better. I tried adding vitamins to his food, varying his food, eats everything well.

It's a Blue Eye Lemon Bushynose, but that black around 1 eye shouldn't be there. I have another in a different tank that it didn't happen to. Nor sure if it's a fungus, or wound but it's been a while, has not gotten better. I tried adding vitamins to his food, varying his food, eats everything well.