AdamTill

Super macro, but one of the stupid protozoa that was terrorizing some of our brood stock for a while. Happy to see those gone eventually.

Goldfish fry fresh from the eggs.

Here’s a single goldfish scale. We had a swim bladder aspiration done on one of our goldfish, and one of the post op treatments was antibiotic injections under a scale. 3/4 times we managed to do it without lifting off a scale, but at least we got a cool photo out of the deal.

Not at all, but nothing super exciting. The immediate interest was in figuring out how to make up a dry fert solution that I can dose daily in reasonable quantities rather than my current Easygreen dosing once a week. The algae in my otocinclus breeding tank is sort of all over the place, and I thought I’d try settling things down to a consistent daily routine so parameters don’t swing. The other was a long term interest in having a fert that would work well in with goldfish. Nitrate is not an issue there, so it would be an everything but nitrate mix. Then just a passing interest in seeing how Easygreen compares to EI, Ada dosing etc as well.

I never worry about it. I’ve watched cories swim right through a big gas bubble and not even flinch. I had a tank for over a year that was up to 9” of peat in places, and it would burp frequently. No issues. Think how many bubbles a sponge filter needs to create to be useful, and how much transfer you get with only one or so. I will say make sure not to have burpy substrate with large plates of foam etc that are tenuously anchored. I heard once of an aquascape that went full versuvius when such a thing erupted due to gas buildup.

Lol, will try! Think it might have to wait for another kick tomorrow in front of the PC with excel open. iPad math is extra annoying.

Low light then, yep. 75s are just a wider 55, and they say low light here too LED Aquarium Lighting - Aquarium Co-Op WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM One of our most asked questions is, which LED Aquarium Light should I get? In this quick guide I'll give my recommendations. Definitions: Low light = Undemanding plants, Anubias, Crypts, etc. Medium Light =...

Thanks folks , that thread is at least attempting the same calc (my searches hadn’t found it). I’m going to have to look at their numbers a little more closely since I’m not sure I quite follow some of the conversions, but that helps. I’m not worried about growing plants (that part I have down fine from a practical value), but rather just to see how what I do now translates into numbers. I have a few applications that are a little off the beaten path (ie, figuring out a nitrate free fert for goldfish tanks etc), so that’s the ultimate goal.

What are you feeding? You might not need to rinse at all. I just strained through a brine shrimp net and fed, and the tiny amounts of salt never affected anything I fed. To your actual question, no that amount of chlorine in a rinse shouldn’t affect anything.

Few questions if you don’t mind. What are you feeding, what’s your water test out at, and how often do you clean your filters and gravel etc? I ask because food quality, water quality, and tank care all heavily factor into infections of the swim bladder in goldfish in my experience. In our growout tanks we tended to be careful to clean the filters of mulm frequently, ran bare bottom, and were very careful about water quality and feeding with young fish. That got rid of all our issues on growout for the most part. Adult fish are more forgiving, but especially warm water babies are not as much. Also feeding peas is borderline pointless. We talked to the vet that first mentioned that in a paper, and even they were shocked at how it’s misused. It might have some utility with a slow gut, but can equally likely cause impaction.

Few things. Original Stingray, or newer one? The original ones put out about 20 par at your depth, which is pretty firmly low light territory. That’ll work for some, and especially plants up on hard scape or floaters, but it depends on what your plan is.

Hi folks, I’m doing a bit of learning about fertilizer methods, and want to get a better handle on what I’m currently doing. I’m dosing Easygreen into my oto breeder tank, and I want to figure out exactly how much. Apologies in advance for mixed units, and I'm not even pretending to remember significant digits from school. In a nutshell, I want to know how many pumps of Easygreen it would take to achieve a nitrate level of 20ppm in a 30 gallon tank. Low end of recommended dose, and a means of calibrating my brain. 20ppm means that out of every theoretical 1,000,000 parts in a volume, 20 of those parts would be nitrate. So if 30 gallons of water weighs 113562.3g as mass (1 US gallon of water = 3,785.41 grams ), I want 2.271246g of that to be nitrate (113562.3*20/1,000,000). The label says Easygreen is 2.66% nitrogen. That's not nitrate, so we need to do an extra calc. The atomic mass of nitrogen and oxygen are 14.01 and 16 respectively, so nitrate is 22.59% nitrogen by mass (14.01/(14.01+3*16)*100). Getting back to our 2.271246g of theoretical nitrate above, that means we need to add 0.51307g of nitrogen specifically (2.271246*0.2259). So in a nutshell, how many pumps of Easygreen add 0.51307g of nitrogen? 2.66% by weight would be 0.0266 g/mL assuming Easygreen is roughly the same weight as water (1g/ml). So if 1 pump is 1 mL, and 1 mL contains 0.0266g of nitrogen, does that make 0.51307g total nitrogen/0.0266g nitrogen per pump or 19.3 pumps in 30 gallons make 20ppm from scratch? That seems high, so I think my math is wrong somewhere, but I can't see where. The rotalabutterfly calc site says 3.7g of KNO3 in 30 gals yields 20ppm, as a check. The molecular weight of KNO3 is about 101 vs 62 for nitrate, which checks well against my value since 3.7*62\101 is 2.27, which I calculated above. I’m just not sure on the pumps of liquid fert. Thanks in advance for anyone’s time!

Gary, Josh or almost anyone from... Board of Directors - The Goldfish Council THEGOLDFISHCOUNCIL.ORG Join Us The Goldfish Council is a volunteer driven non profit organization. This often means that we are in need of help with various projects and to fill open roles within the organization. When we have... ...would be great. They all do way more than goldfish too

To be honest, I’m not sure. Having seen amanos predate cherry shrimp I wouldn’t use those, but a bee type might be okay for lower ph setups. That said, no personal experience

Yup, what James said. Goldfish genetics are a really weird mishmash, and even on very strongly line bred fish lines good breeders keep no more than 5-10% of spawns. Even that would be high. These were blue egg phoenix babies, and out of this many fry I’d expect to keep at most 2-3 fish. Breeding goldfish is brutal on the soul when it comes to culling time. THAT SAID...there’s fundamentally nothing wrong with your fish. Grow, enjoy, relax. He just has a conformation fault that would mean he doesn’t comply with any breed standards, but outside of shows, who cares? Almost every fancy standard actually calls for double anal fins, in case you’re wondering, with even single anals being a strong fault.

As a biological option, I like to use cherry shrimp with eggs. They will pick the fungus off eggs, remove unfertilized eggs, and won’t harm babies or fertilized eggs (shells get “harder”). No chemical option 🙂

Doesn’t really look like it, or at least not a viable one. Spawning parents will gobble up eggs as quickly as they lay them, so only a few will escape unnoticed if the parents don’t get pulled. I’ve bred a lot of goldfish and the eggs will tend to be clear/yellowish if fertilized or dull white if not. Here’s a photo of a spawning tray with babies hatching out. Best of luck with future spawns! Not an if, but a when. As a hint, check your water. Male milt released during spawning often causes a huge ammonia spike, so I tended to do an almost immediate 90% change on any spawn tanks as a preventative thing.