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Posts posted by JettsPapa

  1. On 10/16/2021 at 9:00 PM, Alec said:

    Do you guys have suggestions on where to buy line bred guppies? 

    If you have any locally owned fish stores (not chain) they might have some.  Aquatic 360 in Houston usually has at least two specific strains, along with a couple tanks of mixed guppies.

    • Thanks 1
  2. I haven't read all the replies, but have you considered black neon tetras?  The name is misleading, since the stripes are sky blue and navy blue instead of black (or at least mine are, from multiple sources).  They don't have the red, but they're still very attractive fish, very hardy, and won't easily get outcompeted for food.

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  3. It sounds like you've already figured this out, but generally caridinas do better in softer water and lower pH than neos.  Neocaridinas do well for me in my 8.2 pH water with KH and GH almost off the charts.  If I ever get brave enough to try caridinas (and I hope to some day) I'll definitely be using RO water and re-mineralizing it to the proper levels.

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  4. On 10/15/2021 at 8:16 AM, sairving said:

    Using aqausoil in your planted tank doesn't mean you will be successful. 

    All those really gorgeous looking aqauscapes cost more money than you think.

    Rimmless tanks with hard water are not always the best idea.  

    Always have a spare heater that is the correct wattage.  They never fail when the store is open or when you don't have to leave for work.


    That's why all nine of my tanks have black rims.

  5. I have a few points on selecting colors.

    • I've been keeping neos for about two years, and have noticed that the blue ones seem to need much less culling to keep good color than red ones.
    • Consider the color of shrimp you want before choosing your substrate.  Red and yellow shrimp look good on dark substrate, but blues look best on lighter.  I like sand substrate (natural or black), by the way.
    • Like 2
  6. I don't know that I'd categorize it as funny, but one that frustrates me is "Serpae tetras are nippy, and should be avoided".  They're beautiful, hardy fish, and will rarely cause problems if they have enough of their own species in the tank to hold their attention.

  7. On 10/8/2021 at 8:51 AM, Bullsnark said:

    No, it’s not a bad idea to include a certificate with congratulations on it with your order in case someone needs to explain to their  significant other how this package appeared when they were told not to get any more stuff. I know a few places that provide a custom certificate of congratulations on the win for 3 to 5 dollars

    All the person would need to do would be to show the significant other this thread.

    I started to type some stuff about whether or not a significant other should be giving orders about how much money the other person in the relationship could spend, but I decided to skip it.

  8. Hello,

    I set up some tubs outside this spring for the first time, with guppies and shrimp.  They don't have any filtration, but have abundant amounts of guppy grass and hornwort.  I'm in southeast Texas, so while the temperature will get down into the single digits once every 10 - 20 years, we go years with it never getting below 25°.  I know I'll need to bring the guppies in long before that, but I'm wondering if I can leave the tubs set up with the plants in them to get a head start on next spring?

  9. On 10/6/2021 at 12:32 PM, Jawjagrrl said:

    Thank you for all the great information! What is your take on temperature sync for adding new shrimp to a tank? Some info I have read says this is the most critical aspect of parameters to match in order to avoid a premature/failed molt. 

    I've been drip acclimating for about 2 1/2 hours and I'm at 71.3 for the new shrimp, tank is 74.3. I've only come up a little over 1 degree since unboxing them. 

    Can you bump up the rate of the drip acclimating?  If not, I don't think 3° would make much difference.  I often move shrimp from one tank to the other at my house without worrying too much about temperature.  It's abrupt temperature (and other water parameters) changes they can't handle.

  10. On 10/6/2021 at 9:24 AM, Jawjagrrl said:

    . . . I've got my drop acclimation ready to roll, laser thermometer to check temps match. For the veterans out there, any other advice? Really want these guys to thrive!

    Below is some basic advice I wrote up for beginning neocaridina shrimp keepers.  You might find it useful.

    • Neocaridina shrimp (Neocaridina davidi; red cherry shrimp and the other available colors) are one of the easiest ornamental shrimp to keep, with a wider range of suitable water parameters than caridinas. Their parameters do overlap, but it's a narrow range, and not something I'd recommend for inexperienced shrimp keepers. I don't have any experience with caridinas (at least not yet), so I won't address them here.
    • 6.8 to 8.0 pH is usually the recommended range for neos, with Gh from 6-12 and Kh at least 4. There are supplements you can add to the water to raise the hardness if yours is low. They will tolerate a wide range of temperatures, but around 72° F is generally considered best. At higher temperatures they will grow faster and breed faster, but they will also not live as long. Basically, higher temperatures accelerate their lifespan. Shrimp are sensitive to copper in the water, though the small amounts in commercial fish and shrimp food won't hurt them.
    • If you’re curious about how many to start with, the answer is as many as you can afford, but if money is a factor (which it often is for most of us), you can get a nice colony going with 10 or so. Of course, it will take longer than if you start with 25, but you’ll still probably get to 100 sooner than you expect.
    • There are many color varieties, and they will readily breed with each other. The results will generally be brown or clear after a few generations. For this reason, if you want to maintain a specific color it's best not to mix them. Even if you do stick with a single color you'll need to remove undesirable colors occasionally. The amount of culling you'll need to do will likely vary depending on the purity of the shrimp you start with. From my personal experience my red shrimp need a fair bit of culling, while the blues ones need very little. Many people do keep and enjoy mixed colors, and there's certainly nothing wrong with that. If you do cull, you can have a separate dedicated tank for them, or add them to tanks with fish. Even in tanks with dedicated shrimp hunters you'd be surprised how many will survive, especially given adequate hiding places. I occasionally see one in my 65 gallon tank, and my big angelfish just loves shrimp.
    • To get the most enjoyment from shrimp, keep them in shrimp only tanks, or just shrimp and snails. You don't have to worry about predation, and they'll also be more visible if there aren't predators in the tank with them, even if the predators are too small to be a threat to adult shrimp.
    • Even if they are the only things in the tank, they will feel more secure with hiding places, especially when molting or when a female is releasing babies. Dense plants are a good option. Java mossguppy grass, Süßwassertang, and pearl weed are some good choices. A pile of rocks, sized so that the shrimp can crawl inside, is also a good idea.
    • They are sensitive to changing water parameters, so most experienced shrimp keepers recommend limiting water changes to around 15%, and the new water should be close to the same temperature. If you do larger water changes, it’s even more important to temperature match the water.
    • Since they need biofilm to graze on, and are very intolerant of ammonia and nitrites, it's usually recommended to let a tank run for at least 3 months before adding shrimp, and 4 months is better. You might get by with adding them sooner by adding a sponge filter, plants, substrate, etc. from an established tank, but you still aren't likely to have as much success as you will if you're patient and let the tank "season" (I know this from first-hand experience).
    • In addition to the biofilm, they will also benefit from being fed. There are several commercial foods especially for shrimp, but I've also given mine several kinds of fish food, and they've eaten all of them. While there are mixed opinions about it, many people believe they also benefit from blanched vegetables once or twice a week. I've tried several things, and mine seem to prefer zucchini and spinach, followed by sweet peppers. I usually feed those late in the evening and remove any uneaten portion the next morning. By the way, shrimp just LOOOVE freshly crushed snails. Mine will swarm all over one.
    • If you use CO2 in shrimp tanks keep it around 10 – 15 ppm, and definitely below 20 ppm. They often can’t tolerate the pH swings and/or elevated CO2 levels at higher concentrations.
    • Of course, if you want to establish a colony you need males and females. Females are usually larger, and have better color, so when selecting them in a store you can get all females if you aren’t careful. It’s not difficult to tell them apart, even on shrimp that are the same size. The abdomen (the rear half) of females is larger than males, with the bottom line sagging down. Males’ abdomen is thinner, and it’s pretty much a straight taper from front to back.
    • As they reach maturity, females will develop a “saddle” on their back. This saddle (usually yellow) is the unfertilized eggs showing through their shell. They're ready to breed when they next molt, after which the fertilized eggs will move down below their abdomen where she will constantly “fan” them and juggle them around with their swimmerets to keep them aerated. Unlike some shrimp, neos don't have a larval stage, so they’ll hatch as fully developed, but very small, shrimp after about 4 weeks.
    • If you suddenly notice the shrimp swimming around the tank more than usual, it’s probably nothing to worry about. When a saddled female molts she releases pheromones signaling she’s ready to have her eggs fertilized, which gets the males swimming around trying to find her.
    • If you notice a shrimp with a lighter colored lateral line on top, that's called a "racing stripe", and is a harmless feature that's common with some color varieties. It will typically get wider, with the edges more ragged, as the shrimp gets older.
    • Don't worry about your tank becoming overstocked. They have a very small bioload, and a 10 gallon tank can hold hundreds of shrimp without becoming overcrowded.
    • Like 5
    • Love 1
  11. On 10/6/2021 at 8:12 AM, KaitieG said:

    My family has friends with a little cottage on Rest Lake in Manitowish Waters near Lac du Flambeau, so that's where we spent a lot of our vacation time too when I was a kid.  It's a beautiful area!  My dad is a huge fan of the Blue Bayou restaurant up there if you ever want a fancy cajun place to eat (yes, cajun in Northern WI...makes TOTAL sense).

    It makes as much sense as a Mexican restaurant I ate at about 25 years ago in Bismarck, ND.  It was awful.

  12. On 10/5/2021 at 12:17 PM, Averus said:

    . . . Water Sprite has been iffy for me.  I had a bunch of plants when the tank started up, but they just withered away, except for one plant that is by my HoB that has spread out, but is not a super fast grower.  It is pretty healthy at least.

    Since the Moneywort did well, I am going to be trying some Bacopa Caroliniana next.

    My water sprite initially didn't do well either.  I had bought some, separated it into several plants, and planted them in several tanks.  While I wasn't looking a piece broke off one of them, floated to the top, and turned into 3-4 thriving plants.  If yours is planted in the substrate, and isn't doing well, I'd suggest floating it instead.

    • Thanks 1
  13. On 10/3/2021 at 9:17 PM, Brandon p said:

    I can’t see how I know of the species and not seen them like this. I’m in contact we them trying to get 7-8 to see if they breed true. I’m to young to remember them dying ducks and chickens at Easter, but my 90 year old grandfather said they would dye Minnows from the River. I have never hear that before or after but I never researched them. Holly I can get some and see

    I think so, read the comment above 

    I remember that.  If I remember right they'd inject the dye in the eggs, and the chicks would hold the color until their initial "fluff" went away and they grew feathers.

    • I haven't read all the replies, but I have four species of tetra (serpae, lemon, black neon, and pristella), three species of Corydoras (trilineatus, panda, and pygmaeus), pearl gouramis, and Lake Kutubu rainbowfish, along with invertebrates thriving in my 8.2 pH hard water.  I've never made any attempts to adjust the parameters.
    • If you're having problems with stem plants it might be due to lighting instead of the water.  Water wisteria, in particular, does well for me.
    • I also have good luck with guppy grass, hornwort, crypts, swords, anubias, and pearl weed.
  14. On 9/30/2021 at 5:22 PM, Intuos said:

    I only generally do water top ups once a week due to evaporation from running without lids on my tanks, and a small water change one a month so I can use tank water to clean my filters. I test every week and never really get above 20ppm of nitrates due to planting levels.

    It doesn't hurt to do them every week though, stability of your water parameters is more important IMO then anything else. As with most things in this hobby it's about asking lots of questions and then figuring out what works for you and your setup. 

    I'm not trying to discourage you from doing the small water changes, but you can rinse your filter media in tap water (assuming it's from an established tank; I wouldn't do it with a new tank).

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