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  1. @Mmiller2001unfortunately he does not sell the large containers. Co op wad the first site I checked.
  2. Where is the best place to buy repashy soilent green at in the tubs.
  3. @Cory I did 2x6 studs with r19 in the walls and r30 in the ceiling. I was able to get the tanks up to temp. I put the temp controller my heater is on in the tank instead of the air and It held at 88 for a few hours. I took note from your heater video and have my radiator heater set to kick on at 76 and off at 79. The heater has an 88° thermostat built in. It took it a few hours to get to temp but then held for a long time while the heater and then the room cooled. So at least it's slow swings back and forth in the temp range. Do you control humidity in your fish rooms? If so what is a good level to maintain it at?
  4. @Biotope Biologist Yes I insulated it well. 2x6 studs r19 insulation on the walls and r30 in the attic. And I'm in texas on the coast so only a handful of days a year aren't at least in the 70s high. They finally got to temp earlier and my temp controller shut off. Went to a wedding and came back and after 6 hours the tanks had only dropped a degree and the room was down to 82 from 88. And its 55 outside. I ended up putting the probe in one of the tanks and the room heated to 88 for a few hours and got it their. Keeping the room 76-80 wasn't cutting it I guess.
  5. @Biotope Biologistthanks for the response! I finally just dropped my temp controller probe in one of the tanks and it is currently 88 in the room. The max my radiator heater will heat to. Could you give me any insight into the correlation between humidity and water temperature. I know humidity and air temp are highly regulatory of each other. Would it be beneficial to keep the humidity as high as possible without getting to the point where I have to worry about mold/dampness. Would the temperature differential between water and air be impacted significantly by the humidity level? Ie higher humidity, less evaporation, lower differential between air and water.
  6. Just got the fish room set up and I'm having an issue with the tanks not reaching room temp. I read that heat is lost through evaporation and I've been running my dehumidifier at 40%. Just upped it to 60%. Room has been 76-80 for 2 days and water is 71.8 as of this morning. Any suggestions, tips, or info would be much appreciated.
  7. Is anyone aware of why @Cory does not use general cure in food. Or at least not in any video I have been able to find. I found a few videos on the subject and even found dosing instructions for this modality on api website. Seems to be a much much cheaper way to take care of internal parasites. And if the medication is in the fishes blood after absorption wouldn't it also kill external parasites that are feeding on said fish? Seems something like polyguard for water column treatment and general cure in food would knock just about anything out and be much cheaper than med trio. Assuming one doesn't have shrimp or snails.
  8. This would be another option. @Cory I'm on 1.5 acres and could dig a pond behind my shop. Weld a stand inside the shop above the fishroom to put a 55 gallon drum on. Pump water up to the drum and gravity feed to the inside of the fish room. Then have an overflow that runs back to the pond and stack a bunch of 55 gallon totes for a trickle tower that would hold a massive amount of bio media. With a mechanical filter between the pond and the fish room. This would have a few benefits. I could put covers over the overflows similar to the way the discus farm you toured so mulm gets pulled from the bottom of the tank greatly reducing the need to vac the tanks. I could make the pond as big as I wanted to dilute nitrates and I could just water change the pond without effecting water levels in the tank. This also means I could just do one dosing of seachem safe for the total water volume of the system. Which would be much cheaper than catalyzed carbon. And I could cover the pond and install a gutter across the back and run water through it to plant pathos in and lattice the back wall of the shop. Once grown out a 30' x 40' wall of pathos would be quite the nitrate suckered greatly reducing water changes. The downside is the problem of one system. If I get an infection or parasite it could wreck the whole setup. But I've seen places you tour do central systems so if I med treated all new fish to the system would I be fairly safe from that?
  9. @Cory Whoa a comment from the main man himself. Thanks so much I know how busy you are. Can't wait for more updates on the new fish room. So after a couple of days of contemplating I think I'm going to roll with the 29s and just run them front to back to maximize the amount of tanks I can fit on both walls. I have a 50x100 shop so I can throw up a another room for strictly breeder tanks if this turns into something I enjoy and want to expand. Now I'm running into the problem of water treatment. I plan on doing a manual drain and fill or a drip flow through, havnt decided yet on that. But my water has 2.2ppm chloromine throughout the year according to my annual County water report. I was going to build reactor style carbon filters using 4" pipe and daisy chaining a few 4' long upright sections together with the in line running down the center and the out coming out of the side near the top to push water up through the charcoal. Since its chloromine I know I need to use catalyzed carbon. Do you have any experience on how long x amount of carbon treats x amount of water at x ppm? To be safe im leaning to the water change option so I can test daily and if I detect chlormine I can hand dose the tanks. But if I had a general idea of how long it would last a flow through system would be hands free and give me very stable water parameters. Thanks agian for the help.
  10. I am wanting to set up a 10 x 12 shed to breed peacock cichlids. I've seen a ton of people who do 10 fish colonies in 29 gallons and was planning on doing 20 fish colonies in 40 breeders. Or 30 fish colonies in 75 gallons. 1 male to 9 females. What I'm having trouble deciding is what I will need for grow outs. I plan on doing a flow through system so water quality will remain pristine. I will put flow through enough water daily to keep ppm below 20 in all tanks. Would 20 gallon to the 2-3 inch range then separate all males and move them to 40 gallons to sell and grow to maturity be reasonable if im flowing as much water as needed to keep nitrates low. Also how many fry per 20 and how many juvenile per 40? I'm trying to figure out how my racks will be set up and what my lay out will be. And how many colonies I can set up and have enough room for grow outs. Thank you for any advice even if you have experience and wish to give advice on topics I didn't bring up. Ive had a ton of fun with my current small breeding setup and would like to try to break even and support my hobby by going a little bigger.
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