stowcenter93
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Everything posted by stowcenter93
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45 species today. FOY Bay-Breasted and Yellow Throated Vireo https://ebird.org/checklist/S137430498
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Cory talked about this on the last live stream. The differences are negligible for 99% of hobbyist. They both do and accomplish the same thing. -
@Fish Folk Bonaparte Gulls?
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@Fish Folk Do you geat Greater White fronted Geese a lot? One of our more uncommon visitors here in Ohio. Found 2 long tailed ducks the other day on some of the inland lakes.
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Warehouse employees:
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What makes you say red shouldered? Its hard to see on mobile but it looked like a red tailed hawk to me. I can see a faint belly band that is a good ID.
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@Fish Folk you get a lot of Harriers by you?
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Apistogramma Borelli - fleshy mass on ventral side
stowcenter93 replied to stowcenter93's topic in Diseases
3rd photo
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@Colu @TheSwissAquaristWant to thank both of you again. The Betta made a full recovery. Did Maracyn and Ich -x as the Co-op recommended. Worked great. I noticed no changes to anything with the tank during the process. By day 3, he was swimming around again. For anyone searching for advice on a similar situation: I would highly recommend finding as many plants as possible and float them during the process. I found all my floating plant roots help slow down the tank activity and can help avoid stress to the injured fish.
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This has been developing over the past 2 days. Noticed it 2 days agos, wanted to observe before anything. Didn't see much change on day 2. Today I see that it has clearly grown. Unsure where to start but I have a QT tank ready if needed. Am I looking at an infection or a tumorous growth?
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Sparrow is a field sparrow. White eyering and pink bill are the ID marks to look for.
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It's all important. Would recommend seeing if there's a count to join! Had a great count day. Highlights include some beautiful Red Shouldered Hawks, an adult Cooper's hawk, over 80 Common Mergansers and a Red-necked Grebe, rare for Northeast Ohio.
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Sunday is my count day. I'm lucky that my home is located in my territory. Hopefully we get good number at the few inland lakes we have.
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Yesterday, I found my Betta stuck headfirst in the Aquarium Coop shrimp cave. He was still alive and I carefully did my best to remove him. I immediately treated the 10 gallon tank (my QT sprung a leak 2 weeks ago) with Maracyn and monitored him. He was banged up good and clearly exhausted but he was alive. I continued monitor him. He hung out near the surface the rest of the day. Fast forward to today. I just came home from work and saw that he was moving around more, albeit much slower. Then I noticed fungus growing around the wounded areas. Looking for some advice on how I should respond to this development. Nitrates are around 20ppm Very hard water, high buffer pH around 7.2 Temps are about 80 degrees F. Thanks in advance.
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Oh my goodness. I love that shot. You said he's shooting with a d500? Did he buy the body and lense at the same time? I'm using a D3200 and really want to upgrade for QOL features.
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Sharing a few more that weren't as great quality. A red faced cormorant pair moved into the Chiswell Islands a few years ago and began nesting. Was cool to see. A blurry photo of Leach's Storm Petrel, saw a few of these but couldn't get a good shot until one landed next to our boat for a few seconds. Lucky to document this cool tube And SO MANY PUFFINS (These are horned puffins, also saw tufted puffins.)
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Ottos can be very tricky. You really want to make sure they look like they are well fed at the store. You start at a major disadvantage if you don't. I don't feed my fish when I quarantine with meds, so again it goes back to the otto being well fed. There's no law that says you can't try to feed during QT, but it can make the meds less effective. The 2nd biggest thing in my mind is to start low in quantity. One otto can do incredible work. I wouldn't fault anyone for trying one at a time and taking it slow to build a school. Other tips: Cory has suggested driftwood could be a food source for ottos. I always have some in my tanks. Make sure the tank is "well-seasoned" and not a brand new sterile environment. Sometimes waiting for the brown algae to start showing up is a good sign that your tank could support an otto. Try multiple types of food. They can be picky. The internet is your friend here.
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Went to Alaska on our honeymoon in June. Took a pelagic charter to look for birds in the ocean waters south of Seward. Two of my favorite finds; Kittlitz's Murrelets and a Rhinoceros Auklet.
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I'm farting around with a CO2 system in my 29 gallon. It's not necessary, but I'm out of space in my apartment for new tanks and wanted to try and experiment with it. When the solonoid goes off and the line depressurizes, I get backflow to the check valve, which is located just on the outside of the tank rim. The Canister is on the floor. I was having no issues for a bit but I noticed that I was no longer getting bubbles and realized I still had water in the diffuser (and up into the tubing I suppose) that was not forced out. When I increased the bubble rate, I watched the water be forced down though and up out the diffuser. My first thought was a clog, but is there something else I'm missing?
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CO², pH, and KH (Crushed Coral)
stowcenter93 replied to stowcenter93's topic in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Thanks all. @Seattle_Aquarist, I do have a drop checker that has not turned green in a week yet at my current rate. It's rated as a 4 DKH solution. Crushed coral removal is going to be a lost cause. It's too mixed in with my black fluval sand and, truth be told, I don't wanna do the work to remove that haha. My water is extremely hard but has no buffer. I would have pH swings alot and opted to add buffer to reduce problems, which worked for what I needed. If I am not seeing a change in my drop checker, nor signs of any stress in my fish, would the next logical step be to increase the rate of CO2 being injected slightly every 3-4 days until my drop checker responds with the desired green color? Apologies if this formatting looks bad, I'm having issues with the forum on mobile. @Seattle_Aquarist -
Finally, I have my pressurized CO2 set up and running in my 29 Gallon tank. Got a well priced regulator for a 5lb tank. With a bubble rate of 3-4/sec after a week, I'm not noticing any change in my pH. I assumed this would be the case due to the large amount of crushed coral I used to buffer my system. Are there any signs or tests I should be looking at to help me accurately dial this system in since pH shouldn't fluctuate that much due to my high KH?
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In my opinion, I always enjoy my tanks when I have large groups of a smaller fish versus small groups (or one) of a larger fish. I don't think any of these options are bad, at this point you're just going to pick what you like and what works for you! A 55 gives you tons of options.
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If you want nano and efficient snail eaters? Go Dwarf Chain. If you want a large school of loaches that will eat small snails, go rosy loach. If you just want a single small loach? YoYo or Zebra. You can do a Dojo loach but it'll get big.
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Define small? Rosy Loaches are amazing but are about as small as you can get
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@Kilrkitty08I have a banana plant the completely seperate from its leaves. Basically was left with just the bananas plus roots that had grown. After a few weeks, it's back to having tons of new growth.
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