Jump to content

Eric R

Members
  • Posts

    386
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Eric R

  1. 😮 I hadn't considered that it was for alligators! [Not surprising, they seem to be in every single ditch you drive past on the freeway] I had just assumed it was for mosquitos. Another reason not to live in Florida! There's an idea for the OP. Take the screen down, have a pet alligator (or 3). I don't think they eat algae though....
  2. You probably missed the OP's post, but the home is in SW Florida. No worry about freezing!
  3. My guess is that the metal framing around the yard is just screening and not glass. It's a somewhat common thing for suburban houses in Florida to have full screens around their back patios, including a screened in roof. I wouldn't know this except that I visited some relatives in Florida a few years ago, and all the houses in their subdivision had the same screened in back patios with pools.
  4. Yes then your tap water is providing kh to your tank.
  5. I'd call that a dkh of 1. KH can be measured in either parts per million of carbonate and bicarbonate in your water, or in degrees. 1 dkh equals 17.9 ppm. Of course, the real answer is that it's around that amount, but we don't need finer detail for aquarium purposes. As long as your kh and ph stay stable, I wouldn't worry about it. Just be sure to do regular water changes, which will help to replenish KH. Based on what you said about the pH of your other tanks, I'm assuming that the kh of your tap water reads higher?
  6. Do you want it to grow out of the pond too? Hornwort comes to mind, as does pennywort.
  7. Aquarium snails like nerite or mystery snails come in many patterns and colors, and are very attractive looking!
  8. Yeah, plants will be fine for a week or two without fertilizer, and if you order Easy Green from the Coop now, you should have it early next week.
  9. @HenryC I see on your profile that you live in Mexico. I imagine shipping live fish from the US would be expensive and a hassle. However, many species of sunfish occur naturally in Northeastern Mexico, so if you really want to keep these fish, you could try taking a trip and catching some for yourself, depending on what part of the country you live in. Here's an interesting website I found listing fish native to Mexico with a list that includes 5 species of sunfish: https://mexican-fish.com/fish-alphabetical-index-by-common-names/
  10. In addition to Sachs, you can try Jonahs Aquarium and Zimmerman's, both specialize in native fish. I'd email them directly with your inquiry to get the most recent stocking and pricing. They can be bought fairly inexpensive, and if you buy a group it makes shipping less per fish. Also where North American Native Fish Association (NANFA) is a great resource on all things native to North America. Here are a few things on sunfish that I found on their site: http://www.nanfa.org/fif/longear.shtml http://www.nanfa.org/articles/acgreen.shtml http://www.nanfa.org/ac/sunfish-bass-in-aquariums.pdf
  11. Did you check the pH reading using both the regular and the high range pH tests in the master test kit?
  12. In the aquarium hobby, we tend to use the terms alkalinity and KH (carbonate hardness) interchangeably, which, while not entirely accurate, for our purposes the two are close enough to be considered the same thing. Though both alkalinity and carbonate hardness can be expressed in either degrees of carbonate hardness (dKH) or as parts per million (ppm). Alkalinity is how well water resists acidification, and carbonate hardness is a measure of the amount of carbonate and bicarbonate in water. Carbonate and bicarbonate are what help water resist acidification, and the difference between measuring alkalinity and dKH is that they are calculated slightly differently.
  13. I personally wouldn't recommend any chemical additives to alter pH. A pH of 7 isn't a particularly important number for keeping aquariums (as compared to say 6.8 or 7.3), though 8 is on the high side for fish that prefer a lower pH. However, if you are keeping captive bred fish instead of wild caught, they should more readily be able to handle it.
  14. I think on the aqueon standard sized rimmed aquariums only the bottom is tempered and only for the larger ones.
  15. Aquabid has them available. I'd imagine they'd arrive fine and be microworms.
  16. Yes, it seems you can't get antibiotics without a prescription from a vet in Canada. Therefore, your treatment options are chemical, so things like ich-x (which contains malachite green and is used to treat parasites like ich) or methylene blue (which is used to treat fungual infections), herbal treatments (like supratect, which contains garlic but I'm not sure what else, since they don't identify the ingredients), salt (in a proper, low dose for freshwater disease treatment), or heat. So first we need to identify (as best we can) what we're trying to treat, then we can find the recommended treatment option(s) that are available to you. Sometimes you'll have to try a few different things if you're not sure what it is. Did you read the link @Mmiller2001 shared to see if it's possible you're dealing with epistylis? Can you tell if the symptoms match, especially the differences they describe between that and ich?
  17. [I got a like from @DShelton before, so I'm going to assume that my previous post was at least mostly correct. I'll make an attempt to explain further, but please someone correct me if I'm wrong!] pH is a measure of the amount of hydrogen ions (H+) in a solution (in this case, water), when there is more H+, it's more acidic, when there is less H+ it's less acidic (more alkaline). I think most of us know that water is H2O. But some of that hydrogen and oxygen is present as ions in the water, like H+ (hydrogen ion), OH- (hydroxide ion), or even H3O+ (hydronium). You can also think of pH as the ratio of hydrogen ions to hydroxide ions. When you have a pH of exactly 7, the hydrogen ions (H+) and hydroxide ions (OH-) are equal. When you have a pH of 0, you have pretty much only hydrogen ions, and when you have a pH of 14, you have pretty much only hydroxide ions. This is why adding carbonates, like calcium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) raises KH and pH in our aquariums, since they have some amount of free hydrogen ions still. I thought that this was an interesting table that shows the relationship between the amount of hydrogen and hydroxide ions in water and its pH. [Source]
  18. [Hopefully this explanation below can help to demystify the issue a bit. My chemistry is okay, but not great, so someone (*cough* @DShelton *cough*) please correct me if any of this is wrong!] KH is a measure of carbonate and bicarbonate ions in your water. It's the carbonate hardness, from the German word for carbonate. Along with GH (which stands for general hardness, and measures calcium, magnesium, and other ions in your water), this makes up the "hardness" in water. Acids are things that can add hydrogen ions to water (tannins have these, which is why leaves and wood can lower pH). Hydrogen ions are positively charged, and will bond with negative ions, like carbonate and bicarbonate. Thus, KH serves as a buffer, because it keeps acids from lowering your water's pH (which is a measure of how acidic or alkaline your water is, with smaller numbers below 7 being more acidic). This is why it's really difficult to lower the pH of your water if it has any hardness in it. Most people that have hard water and want to lower their pH use distilled water they buy from the store, or they buy an RO unit so that their water has no hardness in it, and thus no buffering capacity. On the other hand, if you wanted to raise your ph or kh, you can use something like crushed coral or aragonite (which are mostly calcium carbonate) or baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to add carbonates to your water, which increases carbonates (aka "buffering"), reduces H+ (hydrogen ions), and raises pH. This is a good article with a little more information. https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/frequently-asked-questions-on-lowering-hardness/ @Ponyoryx, I agree with the other posters, I don't think your hardness or pH seem so high that it should affect your crypts in the long term. They may just take a while to adjust to your water parameters. And I think your fish should be fine in those parameters.
  19. I just did a 30% water change. I haven't done one for about 5 days, since the middle of the treatment when I had a small nitrite spike from the Maracyn. I figured new water couldn't hurt. I add baking soda and epsom salt to my tap water for my Tang tanks, to increase kh/gh/ph. Tap is from a well that has a micron filter. The other two Tang tanks are doing fine, parameters are all very similar. I want to add them all to a 55g to create a community tank, but I want to make sure that the Paracyps are doing well first.
  20. So I've lost three fish in the last three weeks, and I have yet to identify the cause, and it's really starting to bother me. A lot. I recently treated the tank with Maracyn and ParaCleanse, though I haven't observed any symptoms other than a sudden loss of appetite, hiding under rocks, and then overnight finding them dead on the bottom of the tank. Parameters all check out fine (amm 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 5-10 kh 14 gh 18 ph 8.0 temp 77). It's a partially filled 29g (has about 22g in in right now I'd guess) with currently 5, likely soon to be 4 Paracyprichromis nigripinnis (neon blue herring cichlid), from Lake Tanganyika. These are captive bred, I got them shipped to me about 2 months ago. I originally had 8, lost one a few days after shipping that probably just didn't ship well, these are known to be sensitive shippers. The other 7 seemed fine until about 2 or 3 weeks ago, when they started dying. I've been feeding a mixture of crushed Xtreme krill flakes, bbs, and microworms 3 or 4 times a day. Some of them still seem quite skinny, though others are starting to round out. The ones that I've found dead usually are on the skinnier side. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to solve this problem? Also, what should I do about the one that seems near death on the bottom of the tank? It's kind of on it's side, breathing slowly, but it's occasionally moving around the tank. It doesn't seem interested in eating unfortunately. I've never had much luck with using a hospital tank, I usually just try treating in whatever tank the sick fish is in, if it is in need of treatment.
  21. It's likely you just got a bad unit, I haven't had any noticable problems with mine yet. With most of the cheap things we get these days, quality control and longevity are going to be issues. You could try the non-wifi model. Ranco makes high quality industrial grade thermostats with temperature probes that some reef keepers use - you either have to wire the plug in yourself or you can buy ones prewired if you search for Ranco aquarium heater controllers. They don't come wifi equipped though. If you want something with wifi, you could get a used older model apex controller with a temperature probe.
  22. Agree with everything that's been recommended so far. I insta cycle all my new tanks by transferring over enough existing plants and filter media for the new bioload. Works great unless you need to add a bunch of fish at once and don't have enough established plants or media. You can add a decent bacteria starter like Fritz 7 in such a case to help things along.
  23. Ah good call @Isaac M! I didn't see the fluffy white tail or long ears, otherwise I would've guessed that as well.
  24. Looks like a Malaysian trumpet snail (MTS) to me.
×
×
  • Create New...