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Tanked

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Everything posted by Tanked

  1. Brown Algae is more likely to grow where plants don't. The Algae is using what ever nutrients that the plants aren't using. I would start here: Feeding less, more frequent water changes, and/or adding more plants. Test, or have your water tested. You want to keep the Nitrates in check. I am guessing that your lighting may not be an issue for now. I have one tank with a 16 hour light period, a lot of plants and no brown algae. I have another tank with a weaker light on an 8 hour timer and a few plants. This tank has a recurring brown algae issue.
  2. I have used egg shells in the past. just washed, with the inner membrane scraped off.
  3. PVC is generally considered waterproof, so it should be alright. I have been using a PVC panel for years with no problems. This was news to me, and very confusing. A quick read would indicate that Acrylic sheeting is also waterproof and not affected by a splash of water. Over time however, some acrylics will absorb water (humidity).😕
  4. If you have a real LFS, they may give it too you. Mine actually game from a local lake. If DW likes you, it will REALLY like you. Some of us actually have problems getting it to grow.
  5. Watching Grace in the 29g reminded me of a European ski trip. We would ski from one side of the run to the other in order to get the most out of a too short run. Some of the locals thought we were rude! My TFBs were happy in the 29 for years, but their schooling behavior really kicked in when they moved to the 75g. Any special reason for choosing Neon lighting?
  6. I have long wanted to do that, but the extra water tank in the family room would receive a definite Not a Chance in H**l!
  7. As usual, my thoughts are all over the map. Tanks that look natural, or incorporate a large degree of natural biology exist but truly natural tanks do not. In this hobby there is a dearth of absolutes and a whole lot of "it depends". At present I am keeping: a non planted community, a planted community, a semi planted single species, and my somewhat natural planted project tank. Low tech would be more accurate. The choices were made by the occupants. The project tank is top off only, and uses only a light, sand and snail poop to bring back plants that should have thrived in the planted community. The other tanks all have plant eaters. The problems with the project tank begin with the sand and lack of water changes. As detritus accumulates on top of the sand, and the sand no longer reflects light, the lower portions of the plants begin to die off, creating more algae and detritus... Taking a quick look at multiple natural aquarium videos just now, I see an over abundance of plants and a lot of green water. I prefer a natural looking standard setup with minimal water changes. I believe this provides a much more stable environment long term, and I'd rather see the fish. I do have an outdoor pond that is natural except for the waterfall pump. If left natural, it would quickly become an algae clogged bog.
  8. I wish I could feel your pain! I've been trying to grow DW in a protected part of one of the community tanks for more than a year. The Angelfish and Silver Dollars eat it faster tan it can reproduce.
  9. Try an arrangement where the stump portion is raised in the substrate and the root is traveling between the rocks as they would naturally do. this would create a sense of flow or movement
  10. Many of us pump water from buckets into the aquarium to avoid lifting the buckets. When purchasing, the primary consideration is "lift" or "head" ie: How high will your pump raise the water above the pump. After that GPH., gallons per hour determines how fast the pump will move the water. GPH is usually calculated at zero feet. As vertical distance above the pump increases, GPH decreases. If you go this route, you must stay close by. If the pump quits, you may accidently siphon the water out of the aquarium. A check valve or ball valve is recommended. Hooks made from PVC pipe allow you hang the hose on the side of the tank and pump water without holding the hose. If we are talking about the bowl in the picture, pumping water might not be a good idea if not done carefully.
  11. If I don't do dishes, there is no room for fishes! or buckets, brushes, hoses, chemicals, test kits...
  12. You are more than likely safe either way. Think about all of the people who paint the back of their aquariums black. The question you need to answer: Is the blackout vinyl side (the back) of the Aquarium in full direct sunlight during the hottest part of your day? 12-18 inches of water is a pretty good light diffuser and heat dispersion tool.
  13. It would be great to know what people are thinking in the seconds before they realize they've been played.
  14. My project tank is where I have been giving failing plants one last chance. The is no CO2, just the DIY light, sand, and some Bladder snails. The light is on for 16 hours because the room is not well lit. Easy Green is added once a week. At one point, an air stone was required to break up surface film At this point there is no need for a daily dose of fertilizer. You are dealing with a small amount of water, and the plants can only use so much. The extra dosing will likely result in an Algae farm. After your plants settle in and adjust to their new home, you may need to adjust the dosing. Root tabs may help get them started. If you are not doing so already, get some test strips and watch the nitrate levels. You would want to keep the Nitrates at 20-50 ppm. Remember that the fish are also a source of fertilizer. Start slow and remain patient. This process takes weeks, not days.
  15. I have a single Ramshorn that seems content to remain in the Anubia under the intake. The young bladder snails haven't been so smart. I've always assumed they ride in on tiny pieces of plant matter. The mesh bags used to package garlic bulbs at the grocery might also work for you.
  16. Hi @martinmin You've asked a lot of great questions, and got solid advice. You will eventually find that many of your questions don't have one answer. Each aquarium is different. Most answers will begin with "It all depends..." Heaters and filters: Light and nutrients are more important than filters and heaters in your plant only tank. Water movement provided by a sponge filter will be beneficial. My plant only tank is also light only, and 60 degrees this time of year. Most fish have a suggested temperature range. You will need to research what temperature range for which fish, and pick a common number. As already mentioned lower temperatures are better. Thermometers: I prefer the digital kitchen meat thermometers because they can do double duty, and generally faster and easier to read. I just waited for only 1 day and added a few fishes into the tank do I have to wait a month before adding more?: Now you have stepped in fish poop. Fish in cycle is certainly doable. For a brand new tank, I would wait. I would also begin regular testing for ammonia and the other parameters. For an already established tank, I would think a week or two is adequate. I usually purchase in groups of three. Again, the inch per gallon rule is only a guideline. With proper maintenance and filtration you can go beyond that. The problem here is that as @Phoenixfishroom mentioned, most fish do better in groups. The aquarium in the picture appears to be full now. If you are successful with the plants there will be no place for the fish. Often when the fish are in a space that is too small, it causes aggression, stress, and shorter lives. They require hiding places as well as open places to swim, chase, feed, etc. If the idea of keeping Neocaridina shrimp appeals to you, they would be a good look in that space. If you must use this tank than be sure and pick calmer fish that remain tiny.
  17. Precisely! My plant only tank might have up to two dozen bladder snails. they survive on decaying plants and algae. The planted community tank might have a few more, but they must compete with the lightly fed fish population.
  18. Same here. In that situation I would write 125 in my notes and call it. In my case, it is 301 for the GH. I guess it is possible that the light violet I see is actually less than 300, but every color chart I've seen indicates otherwise. The fish are happy, so I'm not really concerned, just curious as to what the real number is. Too Funny: After spilling the entire 200 strips on the floor years ago, I stopped removing the the entire foil seal from the bottle. Today while reading these replies, I tore the entire seal off of the ACO strips and found the laminated chart everyone talks about. Kind of like finding a unicorn
  19. Like many of us, my test strips indicate a GH level of 300+ppm or 17.5 gpg (out of range). Hard water has been offered up as to why some plants don't grow well, and other issues. I just got off the phone with my municipal waterworks. I asked them what they thought my GH was. My water comes from two different sources. Their tests indicates that my water is between 109-151 ppm or 6-9gpg. The person on the phone was an aquarium keeper and presumably knew what I was referring to. While she was looking up the information I tested my tap water, and got the 300+ppm result as expected. Just in case the test strips were off, RO water tests came in at 0ppm. Is it reasonable to think that the waterlines are adding that much hardness, or is it something else?
  20. Doesn't an over abundance of snails usually go hand in hand with an over abundance of snail food?
  21. As mentioned above, cleaning the impellers/pumps will help. If the problem is the UGF recirculating finer particles, adding sand will possibly make the problem worse. It may also damage the pumps and clog the UGF. I would start with a deep gravel cleaning at every water change. This might help. I occasionally siphon the water directly from the lift tubes, and find tiny pieces of gravel. Adding a HOB to polish the water, will help. I have had some success with water clarifiers, but when the blue lights come on some of the floaters are still there.
  22. I neve thought about the pipe cleaners for cleaning the tubing, I've used them for harvesting hair algae instead of a toothbrush. Now I'm wondering about the brushes used for cleaning shotguns.
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