Tanked
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Posts posted by Tanked
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I wish I had your problem.🙂
It looks like most of he plants tend to be in the front. You aren't a fan of floating plants, so you need to eliminate those long naked stems. You could trim the remaining taller plants, or better yet move them to the back of the tank and move some of the hardscape forward. Mounding up extra substrate to add elevation might also be worth considering, and it may help showcase some of your shorter broadleaved plants. A small plant free zone somewhere in the foreground might be worth considering.. Whichever route you take, the tallest plants will benefit from a regular trim.
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On 4/16/2024 at 6:12 PM, oogabooga said:
I think what happens is that when the lights turn off right away the fish would try to swim towards the closes light source.
Before the Coop light became available, as an experiment, I used three separate lights that would shut off 3-5 minutes apart in sequence. As darkness moved across the aquarium, the fish always moved into the light.
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On 4/16/2024 at 9:57 PM, EricksonAquatics said:
I wonder if this is my problem. I feel like I’m doing it pretty accurately but it must not be for the readings to be sooo off from the test strips. The strips may not be precise but I feel like they’re closer to the truth than the api kit may be at the moment😂
I agree. After I lined up my accumulated API and other test vials, I found that there seems to be some disagreement as to where 5ml. is. Over the years, the fill line has moved on some of the vials. I used two different pipettes to measure 5ml. of water to be tested. If the pipette is accurate, than the line on the API vial is much to low. If the line on the API vial is accurate, than you must be sure that the bottom of the U shaped meniscus is on top of the line.
I don't have any sensitive animals so, considering all of the other "ifs" I prefer the test strips and completing all of my testing in under ten minutes.
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On 4/15/2024 at 12:42 PM, EricksonAquatics said:
That would make sense. The API test obviously seems more precise I just can’t believe there’s such a huge difference lol. Would the API test be reading high for some reason or is the test likely accurate?
Now I feel like I can’t use the test strips😂the stress! Haha
On 4/15/2024 at 12:46 PM, AllFishNoBrakes said:For me, I use the strips as a quick way to go, “yup, looks the same as it always has”. If I’m dialing in a tank or need the test to be more precise I use the API liquid test.
The API kits have a higher degree of precision, that most of us don't actually need. My problem with the API kits is that the slightest variation in testing procedure throws the results. A slightly larger or smaller droplet of reagent, or an extra drop of water in the test vial changes everything. I test once a week, using the strips. " looks the same as it always has " is generally the results I get. I can distinguish between subtle changes in color, but ultimately, I only know that they are lower than one number and higher than that other number, so I have to pick a random number. Other than nitrates, there is no noteworthy differences in the readings.
Years of data indicate that my parameters are boringly stable. I must be doing something wrong, so yeah, I feel the stress.
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On 4/14/2024 at 8:48 PM, oogabooga said:
whenever i have the tank lights off and i go over there they start having a panic attack
On 4/15/2024 at 6:23 PM, oogabooga said:It really only happens at night.
When the lights are off, your already stressed fish can see shadows, movements and reflections that you don't notice; both in the aquarium and in the room where you are standing. When you turn the aquarium lights on, their world shrinks to the bright area that is mostly inside the aquarium. Compare this to how you would feel standing on a totally dark street, or standing under the street lamp with friends.
As soon a you can afford it, add at least 2 or 3 more neons, and some other small fish. They are often referred to as "dither" fish. Their job is to swim at mid and upper levels and make the shy fish feel safer. Zebra Danios would be a good choice. They are hardy and cheap.
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I'll second the window theory. The olive oil photo appears to show a window across the room from the aquarium. The algae doesn't require direct sun, just bright natural light.
I have the same issue in one small corner of one of my tanks. That corner gets a few minutes of bright indirect light each morning.
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The others have this covered. Your fish measure safety by how many other fish are swimming around and how many hiding places are available. When you approach during the daylight, they see you as a predator.
Another possibility: if they "are swimming along the glass as fast as they can" closest to you, than they may be expecting to be fed. They might not be hungry, but if you feed them they will come. All of the behavior you mentioned is normal.
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Sorry to hear about Sushi. there is very little chance that it was your fault; fish do that.
My first thought is that you have crashed your cycle when you changed and cleaned everything. When you get your test strips, post your parameters here, along with a current photo.
TTBOMK, Catappa leaves do not lower GH significantly . Additional leaves can add nitrates (fertilizer) to the water as they break down. Plant tabs usually last a month or more. Are you adding a plant fertilizer in addition to root tabs? Combining with 10 hours of light would help explain the algae issue. The Frogbit was trying to use all of that extra food. Start doing the water changes.
I know nothing about bottled aquarium water, so I can't even guess why the GH "skyrocketed" When you get your test strips, I would also test the bottled Aquarium water that you are using straight from the bottle. If you want to cut the GH you could buy bottled RO filtered water from the grocery. I use Aquafina.
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I guess it depends on how much activity you are looking for.
I hear that Ember Tetras are lazy fish that just hang out. Mine are fairly active, but what about one of the larger shrimp varieties or dwarf frogs?
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Looking a little more like eagles.
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On 4/12/2024 at 7:02 PM, oogabooga said:
i mean its pretty budget and its small enough to fit under my lid i think but i will need to superglue gel it on and make sure it doesn't fall in because its not submersible and there suction cups suck.
or can i just shine a bright light through the glass? from the side?
Many people use DIY lights. My 10 gallon is growing Anubia, PSO, Wisteria and some swords under an LED flashlight, running 16 hours a day. PAR is one reason that it is far from ideal, but it works.
Short term, you can use a daylight LED lightbulb on the side of the tank, until you get your new one. I've done it. The downside is that there may not be enough PAR on the opposite side of the tank, and you risk sun burning (bleaching) the plants closest to the glass, so be careful!
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I allowed Cyano to grow in my project tank for a few weeks. It tended to trap gases from the substrate and dying algae, and grew as a solid continuous carpet that also extended down into the substrate. If you disturbed it it would come up in chunks. I don't see that in your pictures.
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I have various degrees of balance in different tanks, but have never gotten it right. The tank that is closest to balanced is almost algae free, and also receives the least amount of effort.
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On 4/10/2024 at 11:26 AM, clownbaby said:
Okay, I know this is a weird thing to complain about... but my tank has basically no algae and I don't like it!!! 😡
If that is possible, a little natural sunlight might be all you need. Be careful what you wish for, you might get it.
On 4/11/2024 at 10:07 AM, Tony s said:Sometimes algae is just weird. my daughter has a tank that the lights stay on 24/7. never been any algae in it. except for a small amount of diatoms. have had 3 tanks like that. constant light, no growth. but one i broke down and emptied (apparently my wife hated the placement). the fake rock centerpiece turned a light green on the sunward side. and nothing on the shaded side. no idea what's up with that.
but the algae should come in some form. even if it's black beard. and if it doesn't. I'm sure someone would share a bit
Depending on the time of year, my planted 29 gets a few minutes to about an hour of direct sun in one corner. That is the corner where I can grow the bright light green algae. That is also the corner where my Vallisneria will migrate to no matter where I plant it. I have enough spot algae or BBA in various tanks to share.
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Aquarium Coop 1# Crushed Coral is available in Vancouver for $6.99 CA at April's Aquarium, as is Easy Green, $12. CA, and Equilibrium. I have no idea how much shipping is. Your plants will benefit from a liquid fert. in the water column.
Those are the two products I use. I have never used Equilibrium. It might help, but it does not have the nitrogen.
You could use Flourish Nitrogen, but you still need all of the nutrients. Your zero nitrates is just an indicator of a bigger issue. FN isn't going to do that by itself.
Your PH is already 7+, baking soda raises PH. Baking soda is not Calcium Carbonate. Calcium in plant food will effect your GH
Algae is not really a problem as long as it is not denying light to the plants. It does compete with the plants for food. As the plants recover the algae should diminish.
I know it is frustrating. Sometimes even the easy plants won't grow in some aquariums. At this point I would strive to keep things simple and avoid setting up a chem. lab. Every change you make will take weeks to see results. If you make multiple changes, you won't know which change worked.
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On Tuesday my local paper ran a story on where I could see the eclipse next Monday. This time I'm going to be ready!
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Craig's List or similar
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Every network had a live NASA feed, so I watched on the television! It was just like watching a fireworks show on television!
Down here in the corner of the state celestial events are usually blotted out by clouds so I did not plan ahead. Not to worry! Todays morning paper ran a whole section about the eclipse and where I could see it next Monday.
It was fun watching the neighbor's security lights and automatic headlights on the cars come on.
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The pictures are fine. What costs $40. plus shipping?
If you are on a tight budget, a clean limestone rock will (very slowly)raise Ph and calcium, as will crushed coral, egg shells, oyster shells, cuttlebone for your birdcage...
1 lb. Crushed coral or a pack of (3) Wonder Shells from the Co-op are $5. plus shipping. You don't need much. There are chemical options, but I won't go there.
Your plants are starving. You can remove all of the damaged leaves. They will not recover. I usually leave one or two to act as an indicators. Some of your plants have melted back, but may still be alive at the base removing them will be a judgement call. Initially, I would consider adding some root tabs. My theory being that they will deliver the ferts to the damaged plants quicker. After that, a liquid complete fertilizer should be good enough.
I like the planted crevices in the rocks. Do you know what kind of rock that is?
If we are talking about a ten gallon tank, then regular maintenance is important. The smaller the tank, the faster things can go wrong. I am guessing that the algae is consuming the nutrients faster than the plants. In addition to the gravel cleaning, you can use a toothbrush and syphon on the planted rocks, or you could spot treat with 3% Hydrogen Peroxide from the market. If you don't have one already, put your lights on a timer for 7-8 hours. Remember that recovery takes weeks, not days!
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On 4/7/2024 at 5:16 PM, oogabooga said:
My Ammonia is 0, Nitrite is 0, and nitrates is 0(ill be getting some nitrogen ferts soon prob flourish nitrogen one. Ph is 7-7.4(using api test kit). I add 2 doses of flourish regular on Monday and Friday. My tank has been running since last April but i had some incidents(its my first ever tank) that resulted I'm me changing like all my water on 2 separate occasions. But i currently have some neon's (4) which once my plants are under control will be getting some more buddies (2). They are slightly stressed but most of them are still acclimating i think( its been 3 weeks, after i got the plants they were added that same week) I'm on my computer but let me know if u need a photo and ill take one on me phone.
Problem #1 is zero nitrates. You want a minimum of 20 ppm. 20-50 is considered safe.
The pictures are always a good idea. They enable us to see what you are seeing. What size aquarium are we talking about? What kind of lighting if any? Do any of the plants have pinholes in the leaves?
For clarity: Are you giving a single Flourish dose twice a week, or a double dose twice a week? I don't use Flourish and would suggest Easy Green or another all-in-one product. Depending on which plants you have, root tabs might be in order.
@Seattle_Aquarist might be able to lend some assistance here.
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On 4/7/2024 at 1:58 PM, johnnyxxl said:
I suspect that the people with duckweed that is out of control don't have HOB filters that agitated the surface I tried to grow it when I was a kid the fish ate it all
Feeding the fish was actually my reason to try. Not knowing they were voracious plant eaters, I adopted Silver Dollars. I had to separate the fish from the plants with an egg crate fence. The small fish can come and go, but the SDs can't. The theory was that invasive duckweed would pass through the fence and supplement the food supply.
The HOB is likely part of the problem. The small colony I now have is growing behind the fence, behind a Hornwort island, inside a floating ring. There is no water movement on that side of the tank.
The best part for now is: the ring floats with the help of two wine corks. The DW is growing above the waterline on top of the corks. There is some growth beyond the ring.
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Not really enough information to work with here.
Post your water parameters and a photos if you can.
It could be melt, and it could be due to a lack of nutrients. Do you add fertilizer? Is the rhizome on the Anubia firm?
Do you have fish, and are they healthy?
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On 4/3/2024 at 4:43 PM, K Cottle said:
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I'd like to get a group of scissortail rasboras but haven't located any near me yet, so in the meantime I'll put a few mollies in to see if that helps, and obtain some puppy grass. I appreciate the assistance!
FWIW I checked my 29 several times yesterday after the lights came on. The Embers are the smallest fish in the tank so I have to look for them. Each time I checked, At least three of the Embers were in the thick of it swimming with the SAEs, Bloodfins, Serpae, and Cherry Barbs.
Mollies or any active midlevel swimmers, are probably a good choice for a dither fish.
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How would you handle this?
in General Discussion
Posted
I have a 65 and a 75 gallon tank.
The 65 was my large community, but is down to: 2 Silver Dollars, 2 SAEs and a marbled Angel.
The 75 is my single species tank with 4 TFBs. They are the smaller variety and won’t exceed 8”. If I can find them I will add two more.
The goal: a large planted community tank.
Problem #1: Both tanks are devoid of plants except for whatever survives behind a protective fence. The TFBs have somehow managed to uproot and drag whole stem and floating plants through the grate. The Silver Dollars will also eat any plant or algae in the tank, but they don't seem to have a problem with the other fish.
Problem #2: Due to its height, the 75 would be the better choice for plants, but I really like the empty look, with the schooling TFBs.
Problem #3: The TFBs are normally very peaceful. The smallest fish is a bit of a problem child, and I don’t know if it is just an occasional bully or exhibiting mating behavior. It is interesting to watch them swim side by side a fins length apart.
Problem #4: In the past I have seen one of the TFBs swimming with a small Bala shark protruding from its mouth. The small shark might have already been carrion. For that reason, I’m not positive that the barbs will leave the SAEs or the Angelfish alone, but the SAEs can easily swim pass the fence for now.
Problem #5: This is the real problem. These are supposed to be peaceful community fish. I previously tried to move the SDs into the barb tank, and it did not go well. There are no hiding places in the barb tank. The SDs were attacked, and had to be removed within the hour.
All of the fish are mature. So I am wondering if I should risk returning the SDs to the 75 and hope that they adjust to each other, or should I move the TFBs to the 65 and let the TFBs adjust to their new environment?