Doug_E

My tap is 8.0 and very hard. I’ve looked at many of the YT videos and none address this issue. I’ll keep experimenting but seems like I’m doing everything right.

Thanks I’ll give that a try. I’m testing a hatch with the standard bottle/air method to compare hatch and mortality rate. I do keep the light on all the time. Would that matter?

I have used those. A lot more hassle and equipment I’d prefer to avoid. Even if it results in higher yields, not worth it. ll try these eggs just to see how they compare, but I’m committed to the simple hatchery.

Thanks, I have not adjusted salinity. I'll try that next. I'm using Kosher salt at about 1 1/3 tablespoons of salt per liter. That is a bit more than your ratio. I'll give that a try next time. It could also be my water: chloramine or other stuff. I'll also get a gallon of DI water and give that a shot. I'm a former chemist/engineer so solving problems like this are almost fun. Almost.

I have the Co-Op BBS eggs and the hatches are much better than my other eggs. However, I have a significant portion (50%?) that die. I use the Brine Shrimp Direct hatchery. If I check on the progress I will see some swimming in the middle, but more dead below the clusters of eggs floating on top. I use 25g salt per Liter, 72-78F temperature, no Prime or de-chlorinator. I've also tried aquarium water without any improvement. Reducing the eggs I use does not help either. I'll try the bubble/bottle method as I have the equipment, but it is a hassle. Worth seeing if that produces any better results. Any ideas on what leads to such high mortality rate for hatching?

Two questions: What is your take on freezing BBS eggs? Any experience with hatch rate of frozen vs refrigerated? (assuming you let them both come to RT. I've seen warnings to freeze and not freeze for long term storage. I bought two cans of the Coop eggs and plan to keep one in storage for a few months at least. When you use one of these hatching dishes, how many times can you re-use the water? I'd like to add in new eggs each day vs have to clean it, make fresh salt water, measure, etc.

I tried to fix the pump, but now I have a two piece pump. Oh well. Pipette and graduated cylinder works better anyway.

It does get clogged but when I clear it out, the pump 'action' is still very short and I can feel it hit some kind of physical limit. To think I've been dosing 1mL or less in my 40g all this time...

I have a bottle of easy green I've been using for a few months. It always seemed like it dosed low and most of my plants have been good, but not great. Some finally melted away entirely (Val, S Repens, Dwarf Hairgrass). Some may be due to light, but I'm using a Plant 3.0 on a 40b so they are getting good light. I finally tested how much comes out with each pump: less than 0.2mL. Is this right? Either the bottle is defective or the instructions are wrong. No matter what I do with the pump, I cannot get more than a fraction of a mL out. How have I tested this? I pumped 10 times into a 5mL API tube and it was barely half an inch high. I used a pipette to suck it out and it was about 1.5mL in the pipette. I have graduated cylinders I can use to pump into and measure dosage. This might explain why some of my 'easy' plants have not done well.

I have been considering the Coop test strips, this thread is actually reassuring. My only concern left is how old are the ones in stock? They say they are good 2 years from production. Has anyone ordered recently and if so what was the production date?

I have had in a QT setup for the last 10 days, with salt added for the last week. The spot/growth is bigger. It is now more like a round bubble, grayish, and does not look like a living thing (fish lice). Definitely not a sore/wound. It has definitely lost its color, but I'd guess thats as much to do with being in the pretty bare QT tank. I don't want to risk the other fish in the tank, but not sure how long to keep it isolated. Its a white cloud so a life along in a tank isn't good.

He is eating fine and very active. Nothing unusual about his behavior. I was able to get a better look and it appears to be a growth of some kind. I’ll keep him separate for now. Think it could be contagious (infection or such) that my plant grow tank would be unsafe?

I saw this guy has a black bump. A few weeks ago a CPD had a lump that was like a sore and it died in QT. shiuld I treat the whole tank with paraclense? Keep this one out and in a QT tank or with the others as I treat the main tank? tanks has amano shrimp, CPDs, nerites, and plants. Only new additions were some plants a month or two ago. everting is healthy and active. water is 0 amonia, 0 nitrites, 20ppm nitrate, 8.0-8.2, hard water, 72F.

I'm reading how aluminum is bad for aquariums. My local O'Reilly auto has the nylon in stock too. I never would have thought this would be so hard to find!

@lefty o good tip on the auto parts. I found a nylon and aluminum option. So getting there...

They are "lead free dezincification resistant (DZR) brass" so not copper but can theoretically leach copper and lead into the water. Probably fine, but I'd sleep better with plastic fittings.

I am setting up a nano shrimp tank and have a mix of 10mm and 13mm filter components. I was all set to get some brass 1/2" to 3/8" PEX adapters when the copper issue crossed my mind. The brass fittings might be fine, but for how long? I'd also be concerned unless it has been categorically proven that quality brass fittings like those used for plumbing will be find for shrimp and other copper sensitive species. I then started looking for good plastic (aquarium safe) barb fittings that go from 1/2" to 3/8". Nope, I can't find anything good. Just cheap junk on Amazon. Is it a fools errand to try this? Either because the parts don't exist or its is a bad idea to use 13mm inflow/outflow with a 10mm filter fitting. I'm using a ZooMed Nano 10 with 13mm LIly Pipe and a 13mm inline CO2 diffuser.

I have gone down the nano rabbit hole. I was planning a 10g shrimp tank but now want to do two 4 or 5 gallon tanks. I saw a few rimless tanks and the prices were not horrible. The "bending" options (curved glass corners in the front, no silicone joint) look even better and work for my office setup where I'll usually be at an angle. I am trying to find one that goes back about 10" (width) to get more distance front to back for aquascaping. ANd if thats not picky enough, I prefer the low-iron glass. I've looked at ADA, Mr Aqua, Up Aqua, UNS, and Do! Aqua. The bending are very rare (Up Aqua and Mr Aqua) but 7-8" wide. I would probably prefer to get one that is closer to 10" and give up the bending. Am I putting too much value in the distance from front to back? I see 2:1 length to width, but I tend to prefer a bit more width. Are there others I should look at?

Sorry, posted the link and submitted the post before making sure I finished. I updated the post. Im interested to know how good they are. Im in the market for a quality 4-5g rimless tank.

I am looking for nano tanks in the 3-5 gallon range and found some from Up Aqua. They look like they are what I am looking for, but can't seem to find any information about them. Anyone have any experience with these? Heard of them and can comment on their quality?

@Streetwise Yes her book and other writings are very helpful and are what I’m basing my plan around. I found her article on shrimp tanks and bowls very helpful. I won’t attempt the DSM, but am wondering if mineralization is needed or not. On one hand it helps reduce algae and gets the organic matter ready for plants. On the other hand it reduces CO2 production which plants benefit from. Some frogbit or similar floating plants should help avoid algae if I don’t mineralize. She doesn’t seem to add clay or iron to her tanks. This seems common among other methods. She does use regular soil which contains iron. The miracle gro organic potting mix doesn’t list iron content. I’m not sure if adding clay material like the tractor supply safe-t-sorb would help. It may not have iron but does help with CEC. I may just get some soil from the local woods where it has a high red clay content. Lastly I was concerned about using fluorite sand. However since she uses play sand the fluorite sand should be fine. As long as it’s a thin layer it shouldn’t suffocate the soil. It is also clay, so maybe another reason not to need the clay kitty litter?

10 gallon (breed CPDs or shrimp) Miracle Gro organic potting mix safe-t-sorb clay mixed in flourite black sand cap Do I need to mineralized the MGOPM? does the safetsorb have iron? Will I need any? Thank you for Any tips.

The others all seem fine. It has been about a week since I noticed this one and quarantined.

This morning I found it dead. The bump looked worse and as far as I can tell it may be an internal issue (tumor?). Anyone have any ideas what this is?

It still has the bump and it may be a bit bigger. It now seems like it cannot swim very high. Almost like it’s swim bladder is affected. treatimg with meds and will see how it goes.