Jump to content

Rory Waliser

Members
  • Posts

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Rory Waliser's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Reacting Well
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

35

Reputation

  1. I've been looking at getting a few pea puffers for a while now and I think the setup I have will do nicely when I go pick them up. My only worry is the nerite snail I've had in this tank for several years. It is about an inch in size at this point and I've read that the puffers will normally just ignore a snail that is bigger than them, but I'm curious if anyone has experienced their puffers killing larger nerites.
  2. @Ron Uni I must clarify that I was supplying to a 10 gallon tank when I tried the fluval kit. I needed to get it down to around 1 bubble every 3 seconds and it was just so difficult to get it there and keep it there. If you need more flow, I would say it is very attainable with the fluval kit.
  3. If you plan on using CO2 long term, I would personally bite the bullet and spend the couple hundred dollars on a good regulator and gauge kit. The fluval kit works fine, but there is no need adjustment for this system so I found it very difficult to adjust my bps down to where I needed in a couple of my smaller planted tanks. A decent kit can be a bit spendy but I promise it's worth it. I've tried a few cheap ones that either don't keep a steady bubble rate or a gauge will break and dump a full tank of CO2 in 5 minutes.
  4. I wish there was a product like the furbo camera that I could put in my betta tank for when I'm out of town so I could check up on him and throw him individual pellets. I usually just fast him over the weekend, but I think he gets bored when I don't walk in front of the tank to feed him once a day. Every time I come home he greets me with as much enthusiasm as the dog does when I walk in the door.
  5. What is the lighting like in your tank? Are the plants growing or sort of stalled? Your dosing seems massive to me, but your plants are may loving it if they are in high enough light to consume that much and grow.
  6. Your pH might be a bit low but this shouldn't be too big of an issue if it says stable. If you want to raise it up a bit, use crushed coral in your substrate to do it. This should be a good way to raise it and not have to worry about it too much after the fact. Research online or in the forum here about it though. I've never had to do this so I'm not too learned on the subject since my tap water is higher around that 7.8 mark and I only have to mix RO water with my tap water to fix it. The only other thing I question is your hardness. Usually your if your pH is low, your hardness is softer and vice versa. I'm not sure if 150 ppm is common for a mid 6 range pH or if there is some inconsistency in the test strips (please don't kill me for saying this @Cory)
  7. Yeah I guess 200 watts is 200 watts so it would cost he same if you had 4 heaters or a singe heater. And you would be creating more upfront cost to buy an extra sump tank and plumbing anyways. Scrap that idea lol.
  8. How many tanks are you talking? I guess decent tank heaters are like 30ish bucks average depending on size. You might see a dollar difference per month in your electric bill per 100 watt heater so i would say the cost is mostly upfront. Also depends on the type of fish you want to keep. A lot of species wouldn't mind staying in that 70-72 degree range so you may not even need anything to heat your tank. It might also be possible to run all of your tanks through one sump tank since you have done custom drilling. That way you may be able to by one higher wattage heater and put it in the sump tank to keep the rest of them warm.
  9. I've got a mating pair of honey gouramis and my male changes color by the hour. I've noticed my female also gets a bit brighter when the male starts turning dark as well.
  10. The only test strips I've had good results with are the Tetra brand ones, and even those can be inconsistent. You can have up to 40 ppm nitrates before your fish start to feel it but 20 ppm is good to have for your live plant to pull out of the water column.
  11. Lineage? I thought cherry shrimp were just named based on some agreed range of color. So even if some of these shrimp do achieve brighter reds, it's not technically correct to call them fire red shrimp or bloody mary shrimp since they don't originate from a recognized colony of fire red or bloody mary shrimp?
  12. I suspected the age thing a bit because it seems like most of the large ones end up with better color.
  13. I bought a half dozen red cherries from my lfs a few months back and they're breeding like crazy. I can't even count the adult sized ones anymore and there is easily 50 babies I can count at any given time in various sizes. I'm wondering why some are turning out this low grade color and some turn out solid and bright more like what I bought from the store. Is it a matter of age or gender or is it just that you only get a few high grade ones from each clutch? If I separated a few bright ones in a tank is this basically how people develop better color or is the selective breeding process more complex than that?
  14. If you're worried about the pH, you could get some RO water from a grocery store (RO water not distilled) and mix it with the tap water you're using for water changes. This should help level it out a bit. I always do something about 40% RO water in my changes since my tap water pH is close to 8.
  15. Same here. I always go to a craft store and get big sheets of construction paper. Easy to cut to size and it usually holds up well until you run water down the back of the tank lol
×
×
  • Create New...