Mr_Manifesto
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Everything posted by Mr_Manifesto
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It could be swallowed air, but its probably more like gas from digestion. Bacteria in the intestines of animals can break things down and create gases. I think it's pretty normal as well. I would monitor everything, but sounds like things are going well on your end.
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Honestly, that poop looks fine to me. As long as it isn't clear or whitish, and looks like brown/greenish poop, which in that picture it does. I think you're fine. You can do another round of Paracleanse to be extra safe, and it won't hurt, but from what I see in that picture, that fish poop looks ok, Long and stringy is just how some fish do it. I would probably just keep them in quarantine and observe.
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If these danios do have something, then the whole tank they have been in has been exposed, I would treat the whole tank and not worry about the bucket
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If you're new to all this, It can be overwhelming. First off, your tank probably isn't cycled properly and toxic stuff is building in the water, Ammonia and Nitrites. Getting a test kit that can test for these will help you diagnose any issues, they sell master kits that have all the basic tests needed. The best thing to do would be change water frequently, like daily or every other day till you can see there are no ammonia or nitrites showing on the test, or at least a month if you can't get a test kit. If you have public water, you most likely have chlorine or chloromine in your tap water, you can add water conditioners to neutralize that immediately, or let the water sit out for a few hours before adding it to the tank. You can add salt to the tank as that should help with everything. I would just keep the water clean, stay up on water changes until your are sure the tank is cycled. And keep the tank heated. If you do add salt, make sure you add salt to the water you change too.
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According to some googling, Fin Rot is can be caused by low temps, poor water quality, overfeeding, and/or feeding poor quality foods. Overstocking can be an issues too. The parameters you posted all seem great, but I would definitely change some water on a regular, removing any waste in the process, while treating with salt and meds. keep the feeding low and maybe check the quality of your foods.
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also, I believe Maracyn 2, can effect the beneficial bacteria in the tank, so keep an eye on ammonia/nitrites and change water accordingly.
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I don't think your acclimation process is causing anything, so I wouldn't stress about that. I do think that the pH is pretty low for neocaridina shrimp. That is probably what is causing this. You could try adding crushed coral to the tank and it will help buffer the pH higher.
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You're correct, I was thinking Paracleanse. General Cure, and Paracleanse have the same ingredients.
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I have successfully treated Ich with just salt and temp. Stress is what will kill the fish the fastest right now, so take things slowly. I raised my tank to 85F+, do this slowly though, I did mine in 2-3degree increments. I also added salt, SLOWLY! adding a ton of salt all at once is not good in my opinion. Also adding an Airstone is very important as raising temps also reduces O2. Gravel vacuuming can help too, because the ICH will fall off and land in the gravel till it hatches and looks for another host. The idea is that the heat and salt kill the hatchlings, and therefore stop the spread. When you do change water, make sure the water has salt in it and is up to temp. Don't need any salinity or temp swings while this is happening. Also, after all signs of ICH are gone, i'd keep the routine up for at least another 7-10 days before bringing things back to normal. I can say in my experience, ICH-X is by far the easiest thing to do, if you can get it. Its simple to use and works very well in my experience.
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When something like this happens to me, I try to take a second look at the whole situation. Is the heater working properly? Does the temperature dip down too low at night? The other issue Oxygen in the water, you say you have some plants in the tank and at night they can be sucking up the oxygen from the tank, do you have an airstone in the tank? Also, pH can swing at night when the lights go off as well. It might not have been any of this, but it's some 'not so' obvious stuff to check into.
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They both contain the same active medicine. So using both at the same time would be double dosing. Also, I like to use ICH-X when fish get weird fuzzy stuff on their bodies. Malachite green, does more than just ICH, treats protozoans and fungus stuff as well. EDIT: Mixed up my meds, Paracleanse and General Cure share the same ingredients, NOT Maracyn.
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Definitely quarantine and treat this fish. You probably don't need the paracleanse, but I would use the ICH-X and the Maracyn, and I would slowly add in the salt.
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Apisto has a weird mark, doesn't look like ick
Mr_Manifesto replied to WeehawkenFish's topic in Diseases
I would try some ICH-X too... anything that looks fungal or growth on the body of the fish, I use Ich-X. It treats a lot more than just ich.
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Yes, quarantine him. It really isn't going to hurt and it will give you peace of mind. The only thing that would happen by not doing this is adding a potential vector for infecting the other fish. Its probably unnecessary, but if he was in with other 'un-treated' fish, then there is a risk.
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As a side note, If you use a pH buffer, please be careful. Huge pH swings will kill fish instantly.
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Livebearers still flashing after full course of Paracleanse
Mr_Manifesto replied to Kirsten's topic in Diseases
In my experience, praziquantel is the med that kills the flukes, Paracleanse has it in there, 75mg/packet, also has 250 mg metronidazole, so it works as a broader spectrum anti-parasite. Something like Prazipro has only praziquantel and I believe its a higher strength. running a multiple courses of Paracleanse will do the trick, but if you have Prazipro on hand, might be better at knocking it out. -
Unless you find a way to calm your Krib down this problem isn't going to go away. Obviously it won't be dropsy every time, but you have an element that is stressful and deadly to the others in the tank. If you keep the Krib in the tank, you'll stress the other guppies out and they will probably eventually die from the stress. I think your logic is sound and rehoming the Krib is the best option.
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Temp look good, pH is a bit low, but shouldn't be causing these issues. Add a little bit of crushed coral to the tank would help buffer this a bit higher. The food you're feeding is good stuff. My experience is bettas will overeat and cause themselves issues. Does his belly look swollen, like he ate too much? Bettas are susceptible to intestinal blockages if they tend to overeat. Unless there is some ammonia or nitrite issue, I'd say the tank parameters are fine. Hopefully the salt and meds do the trick.
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This could be a disease, but it might be something else. How long have you had this fish? What are you feeding him? Do you know any of the water parameters of the tank? pH, Temp, ammonia, nitrites? Might be poor water quality, might be poor food quality. It might be the fish is being kept too cold for a betta. Salt won't hurt either way, so I'd start with that, but if the water quality isn't good, salt isn't going to do much.
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It does look like a leech, and it is definitely some type of flatworm. Fish might've eaten it eventually, but best to just remove it. If you have a problem with them, then you might need to medicate the tank.
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White spot appeared on guppy overnight - I’m a noobie to this stuff
Mr_Manifesto replied to TetraMan's topic in Diseases
I would dose the ICH-X as well. you said its a white spot that doesn't look fuzzy, but does it look like a granule of salt or sugar? It could be the start of ICH as well. Also ICH-X can treat some other fungal stuff, if that is a concern. edit: FYI ICH-X will stain the silicone blue. -
Danio Disease, head tilted up, curved spine, red sore
Mr_Manifesto replied to JuliandAaron's topic in Diseases
This could be neon tetra disease, or it could also be fish tuberculosis, either way, it is not good! Treatments are varied, and success is minimal. IF it is fish tuberculosis, there is risk of human infection as well... so wear gloves! Most hobbyist recommend euthanasia. I personally have a hard time doing that, because I feel like everything living thing should at least have a fighting chance. I would quarantine all those that have symptoms, and try to medicate. I don't know what medicines are available or what would even work. -
Look at it like this. Everyday your plants are going to consume a certain amount of nutrients. If there is a bunch of nutrients in the tank, it'll take what it needs.... then the next day.... then the next day.... etc. etc. Picture the plant is a person and the nutrients it needs is one bottle of water, daily. Everyday that 'person' is going to go to the fridge and drink one bottle of water. it doesn't matter if there is 1 bottle in the fridge or 100 gallons in there. its still going to drink 1 bottle. Now, what you are trying to do is try to put that bottle in the fridge everyday before the 'person' drinks it, which is possible, but trickier. The downside is that you might not be giving it what it needs, you might be only supplying half a bottle or 2/3 or 3/4, etc. Now that 'person' is going to go thirsty. The other side is you're giving too much and you'll end up with the extra 'water' in the fridge anyway. So. I personally would stock the fridge every week and let them do their thing. Hope this analogy helps
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I have very hard water as well, pH 8.2 - 8.4 and around 450 TDS. Maybe its just my water chemistry here, I've kept bettas in my hard water and they do ok. My experience is they become very susceptible to bloat/blockages and renal failure in the hard water. I'm not saying that you can't keep bettas in hard water, and I have kept them in it too. Just be careful!
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I too have learned this the hard way. The seem fine for a while but eventually just deteriorate. I now use a RODI system and mix my water with the RO to get something around 200 TDS. seems to work well. Also my experience is that Bettas usually get some sort of intestinal blockage if you over feed or fed them low quality stuff. I feed mine mostly frozen foods, occasional live black worms, Vibra-bites, and Bug Bites. I literally count 2-3 of the 'bites' so they don't over eat, and I don't go heavy on the frozen foods.
