Mr_Manifesto
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Posts posted by Mr_Manifesto
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Final Update: I raised temps and added a UV sterilizer to the quarantine tank. Held temps above 87F for two weeks. about 3-4 days in, all the visible ich was gone from his body. He ate live black worms, grindal worms, BBS and bug bites then entire time and seemed active. another week in quarantine with temps around 77F and he seemed perfectly fine. I have seen no other worms attached to him, perhaps that short time in the meds killed them? Anyway. He's cleared quarantine and in a 55g to grow up a bit.
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Update #2, He has ich.. noticed it this morning. going to raise temps.
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Just an update, after I added the med trio, the ghost knife started looking real bad, about 20 hours in the water and it started to turn cloudy and the fish was losing his slime coat... made the decision to water change and add carbon to get the meds out. He immediately started showing signs of improvement. Its been several days now... he still has the issue with flashing, and has some white spots, (doesn't look like ich) on his body, they look more like where flukes might've been attached. either way. I'm not sure which med it was, but i suspect the Ich-X. I did get a UV sterilizer, but dunno what that's going to do with the stuff on him already. I may try to medicate again, but it will only be 1 med at a time. The definitely sensitive to one or all of the meds in the trio.
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yeah, the one I have is definitely flashing and can see at least one worm attached near his gills. I added the trio last night. gonna find out.
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Anyone have experience with a ghost knife fish and the med trio? I've heard meds can be very hard on them. anyone have any experience with the Trio on them?
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I have 2 tanks with pea puffers in them, and I feed frozen bloodworms, live blackworms, and pond snails. I have tried and tried to feed them Vibrabites, but they ain't having it. They also won't eat anything that is frozen other than the bloodworms.
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@FlyingFishKeeper has solid advice. My experience is that water quality is a main reason Cory's lose their barbs, another reason might be the substrate you're using. So keep the water clean, use the med trio as directed.
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Ich can live 7-10 days without a host, and internal parasites are pretty similar. I'd say at least 2 weeks to be safe, in my opinion.
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27 minutes ago, GoldenGardner said:
I don't love the idea of having another tank but it seems necessary.
I don't know if you have a place to store anything but Petco has fish tank sales for 1$ per gallon pretty often, from 10g, 20g high, 20g long and 29g. so you can pick one up pretty cheap if you decide to get an extra tank. Also other competitors will usually price match, if you prefer another big box store.
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YAY!!! Dark mode is back!
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Have you tried anything with a shell? like snails or even small clams/shrimp from the grocery store? I believe these puffers have teeth that will grow continually and need something hard to keep it from getting too long, Like a beaver. Maybe his teeth are at that point where he's suffering because of it.
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That is a very strange injury. Is there any kind of reflection in the tank where he was attacking it and damaging himself in the process? Seems like the type of injury they get from 'fighting' with other fish but none of the other fish seem like they even care to fight with a betta, which makes me think he's attacking his own shadow/reflection. Something to look into, but definitely looks like an injury.
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If this is ICH, and it sounds a lot like it is, keep the temps up for at least 10 days after you see no more spots on the fish. those white spots are actually egg like cysts that fall off and then hatch in the substrate. And they take a few days to hatch once they fall off.
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15 tetras in a 5 gallon tank is going to cause some sort of spike in your cycle. That's a bunch of fish for a small 5 gallon tank. I understand it was cycled, but you just increased the bio-load by a lot, especially if you're feeding them heavier. I would keep up frequent, daily water changes for a little while till I was certain the tank could handle the bio-load. The sunken bellies and clamped fins, are a sign of a few things. definitely run the med trio. Maracyn, Paracleanse, and Ich-X. Also, my experience with this is if the med trio doesn't knock this out, then you'll need stronger deworming meds, like Levamisole.
EDIT: just saw the part about the kanaplex, I would use it, but you might need something more. -
19 hours ago, Jake M said:
and this post is seeking out advice to cure my fish, not any scolds about quarantine tanking
We're not here to judge, we aren't about that here 🙂 I'm pretty sure each and every one of us in the aquarium hobby have learned this lesson the hard way, and even then... we still take risks, and even if you followed every 'proper protocol' there are no guarantees.
My guess is that the pH swings aren't helping and are probably stressing out those that didn't appear sick. but it does sound like you have a bacteria bloom happening, which makes sense. I know you're in the middle of dosing fenbendazole, and I don't know how it would react to dosing other medicines at the same time. You said you were using salt, that's a good start, I would keep that up. I would definitely change water, and try to keep the pH stable the whole time, don't chase the pH, that'll kill fish quick in my opinion. I think until you finish dosing the fenbendazole, I would use the salt and concentrate on frequent water changes, to keep the water from fouling, which would also reduce the bacteria in the water column. After the worms are dealt with, then I'd think about adding other medicine.
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I would isolate this fish in a quarantine tank and observe. It could be stress and/or internal parasites. My experience with Gouramis is they are rough with each other. I've kept two groups of Gold Gouramis, (2-3 each) in two seperate 55 gallon tanks, and at some point, they always start fighting each other and eventually one would die off. I would guess that pearl gourami is being muscled out by the others. If you can't isolate this fish, you can try medicating the tank, but if it is being bullied, it will die unless you rehome it. Fish are very quick about it, they will just chase one away, and the others will see it as being weaker and start doing the same. It might not even be one fish, it might be each one doing it and the toll is only on the Pearl. You may never notice it unless you look at the tank constantly.
Isolating the fish would be the best option in my opinion, If it is sick, you reduce the risk of infecting the others, and if it is being bullied, you remove the fish from the threat. -
I would run the full course of medicine, not sure what the directions recommend, and probably keep them isolated for a few weeks afterwards to make sure its been knocked out.
Edit: Also keep an eye on the water parameters, because the beneficial bacteria is most likely affected by the meds.-
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1 hour ago, Ghost said:
Oh ok that make sense lol but as for the plants any way to counteract the effects on them
Unfortunately not, other than either removing them from the tank or moving the fish to a hospital tank, but if you have ICH meds, I'd use them. I would also probably use the Maracyn and Paracleanse too, just to make sure it isn't gill flukes and the Ich.... Also, make sure you have an airstone if you're medicating and raising temp.
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57 minutes ago, Ghost said:
how would I check to see if there's a short circuit? I didn't feel anything when I stuck my hand in there
that's pretty much how you check... lol
57 minutes ago, Ghost said:As for the aquarium salts will it effect any other of my fish I have neon tetras, danios, black khuli albino cory and a nerite snail also a few live plants
Salt shouldn't have any issues with the other fish and snails, but the plants will suffer from it.
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This could've been an injury, or it might be something internal, either way
14 hours ago, Liliana Araoz said:I am treating with erythromycin, and added a bit of aquarium salt.
I would just keep the treatment up and monitor everything. Not much but to wait and see at this point.
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Definitely treat this with something, Prazipro is a good start.
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When they 'itch' themselves are they rubbing around their gill areas? That could be a sign of gill flukes. Could be something else as well. Posting water parameters will help, it might be the pH is really low and play/guppy/mollies like is higher and hard water. Double check to make sure it isn't something in the tank, like a short circuit on the heater and they are being shocked. other than that. usually when fish do this, its either the gills or the body. But its usually some sort of parasite or possibly ICH again. You could be proactive and use the 'med trio' on them.
EDIT: Also, some aquarium salt will go a long way with this type of thing as well, and the fish you have would probably prefer some. -
Sounds like it might have a swim bladder issue, I would keep the food to a bare minimum for a while, and maybe just cut back altogether on how much you feed. Fish can go weeks without food. So don't feel like you're starving them.
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Yes, I would use the med trio, Maracyn, Paracleanse, and ICH-X.
Water Hardness and Well Water
in General Discussion
Posted
A water softener is really just exchanging one type of ion, calcium, for another one, sodium. which technically 'softens' the water, but does not change the TDS. the difference is it adds sodium. The Platys would probably be just fine, but the Corys and the tetras, I don't know. it depends on how much sodium is actually mixing into the water. There is usually some sort of bypass near the water softener itself. Also, check the plumbing lines, sometimes the main kitchen sink is already bypassed because its the main source of drinking water. I read somewhere that drinking softened water is like 1% of a persons sodium intake, so some newer construction stuff might bypass that. You could also test the salinity with a refractometer (15-20$ on amazon) and see how much is actually in the water. Other than that... the hose idea is great, or RO.