JRed

I am working towards setting up something similar for a couple of my tanks and didn't think of using those connectors for refridgeration lines, I was looking at the irrigation barb things and felt like they were a little chintzy... did you find the fittings finicky at all (you mention needing lots of teflon tape). I hope they aren't super expensive here in Canada to source.

I had a maylandia lombardoi (Kenyi cichlid) for almost 8 years before he past - plus he was already 3" when I got him so probably add 1-2 years. I also have a pair of synodontis njassae I bought 2 years ago and they were already 10" when I got them, so I am sure they are pretty old to begin with - hopefully they live the 20+ years they are supposed to.

Hey guys thanks for the responses. Yes I agree adding a piece of plywood would probably allow for the tank to sit flat however it would still have a gap between the wood and metal. I agree @McNubbin I prefer to avoid MDF and plywood where possible but maybe I could put a piece of plywood then use pieces of 2x4 cut thin to fill the gap every 6 inches or something? I'm not really sure what to do, I feel like adding the plywood isn't going to really do anything different from adding little fillers between the tank and stand. Thanks for the responses.

I think a large tank is relative to what kind of fish you are keeping, a 55 is large for a moderate colony of guppies but somewhat small for large haplochromis from Lake Malawi. I like to look at aquariums based on dimensions and inhabitants rather than gallons, giving them plenty of room to swim around (or swim away from one another) and how those fish fit into a tank. I think nowadays anything under a 30 gallon is considered "smaller", 30-75 gallons is considered medium, and anything above a 75 is considered "larger" but again would depend on what you are keeping. Thats a bummer to hear that glass constructed tanks are so expensive where you are from, have you considered setting up some plastic tote containers? I use these all the time for quarantining and raising fry. They are light, easy to disinfect and can stacked together so storing them is a lot easier. Just a thought.

Projects I am working on: Figuring out my sciaenochromis fryeri white knight fertility issues, only getting about 25% of eggs to hatch. Trying to get a better method for spawning my syno luccipinnis, would like higher yield. Integrating my albino paracyp into my remaining regular females - had a illness decimate my original colony. Playing musical tanks to get some of the groups I have been growing out into better spawning situations. Figure out the best method for raising the recent BN and corydoras fry, relatively new to spawning these types of catfish.

I had a group of 8 paleatus in a 40 breeder with gravel with minimal issues, I had 2 pass a couple months ago but I believe it was an unrelated issue. I actually have the remaining 6 spawning on the glass but the plecos kept getting the eggs. Finally took the time to learn how to pull the eggs and was fortunate to get around 60 eggs a week ago and happy to state a high hatch rate. Planning on moving the group to a 20 by themselves but not sure what to use as substrate - will following this thread going forward. Thanks

Good afternoon everyone, Been looking for an active forum for a while, our local club forums have been pretty dead the past year or two - I think its just a dying breed unfortunately. I live in South-western Ontario and given the water chemistry enjoy a plethora of different rift lake cichlids, a few livebearers and synodontis. Currently I am expanding into more livebearers, ancistrus plecos, and corydoras catfish. Presently I have 25 aquariums going from 5 gallons to 90 gallon with a 125 in the works along with some other mid size aquariums (should be capped at 30-32 tanks depending how hard I tetris them in my 120sqft room haha). Looking forward to continuing learning about the hobby and having fun seeing what others are doing. All the best! JRed

Thanks for the reply, actually it was that off comment he made on the Livestream that got me thinking about this again but unfortunately he doesn't state which span is ok to do so. I know Joey on King of DIY stated 36" is about the limit and I have several 40 breeders, 22 longs and other tanks supported only on the ends but I've never pushed past that. Don't want to bother him directly as I know he is busy, but then thought hey I should try the community Cory is building. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply - unfortunately I don't have much experience with metal or trying to get a metal tube to shove in there to help with the flex. I thought about using some 2x4 but not sure how that would hold up or prevent it from popping out like a missile. Fortunately the tank is not filled yet so can still do some playing around, I mocked up the playing cards and it didn't look too bad actually, looks almost like foam underneath as you can only see the white of the cardstock. And yes I am aware the tube stands are prone to droop however I think mine has already "settled" to its drooped position as I bought it used and scored a really nice 125 later on. Do you know where I could purchase the HDPE cutting board, I do like the idea of it being waterproof cause we all know there are spills in any fishroom haha.

Good morning everyone, I’ve searched for hours about this online but haven’t seen a conclusive answer. I have a 125 gallon aquarium with a metal square tube stand - the tank sits level on the ends however in the middle there is a 1/8th gap between the stand and tank. I have multiple tanks that are supported on the 4 corners however I thought the limitation was 36” long. I know you can add styrofoam but that is more for abolishing small defects to prevent pinpoint pressure spots but wouldn’t provide any structural support. I read on an old forum post that playing cards or small pieces of plastic could be used to fill the gap. Anybody had this and what did you do? The tank is made of 1/4” glass with 2 cross braces and black trim. Thanks for reading and opinions!