Jon G

I'd say 75% stay alive for most of the day. You could also add aquarium salt to the container of tank water and store them in that. They will stay alive for 48 hrs that way. Roughly 1/4 teaspoon of salt in like 2 oz of water.

I keep them in a small Tupperware with a little tank water and store them in the fridge. I feed it all out in 24 hrs.

I like water wisteria Hygrophila Difformis. Works well for me and easy to remove if need be.

I don't know if this will help but this is what I do. I always start my air before I add the eggs. So I will turn on the air add salt and baking soda then add my eggs. Most of the eggs begin to tumble but some still float and get stuck to the sides. I will let it bubble away then go back to the hatcher a bit later and use a small pipette to suck some water out of the hatcher and wash the eggs down the sides back into the mix. This has worked for me. Once the eggs are water logged they should stay submerged for the most part.

So I just wanted to give on update. Unfortunately I was unable to save the fish and I found him dead today. I had dosed with paraclense according to the directions on the package. The white "divots" on the fish first got worse then began to clear up and look as if they were beginning to heal. A few days later I noticed that the places where he had the lesions on his head began to grow some sort of white fungus. I then treated with ich x as per bottle directons for 3 days which cleared up the fungus. The fish was doing OK for a day or two. Was eating and it looked as if his words began to heal. The marks on his head then began to look red as if they were infected once the fungus cleared. I treated with maracyn (erythromycin) as per directions on the package. Sadly the fish did not make it. Water changes were done also as per the package directions and between new medications being added to the aquarium. It stinks that I lost him. He was a really nice looking fish but it happens. I did all I could. RIP!!

Thanks @Dean’s Fishroom. I have learned so much about breeding from your videos with @Cory. Particularly about rams. I already have a 10 gallon with a heater and a sponge filter ready to go. I can takes some cuttings from plants in my main display and float them. I just have to get a cheap light for the tank.

Thank you. I'll probably move the fry and leave the parents since they are very comfortable breeding in the tank they are in and I want to put the fry in a bare bottom to make grow out and cleaning a little easier. I was thinking to give them another week with the parents before I move them. That will make them a little over 2 weeks old. Do you think that is a good time to make the move or should I wait a bit longer? I have always done 40 to 50% water changes on the tank and have continued since they have hatched 2x per week. I use my tap water which has a ph of about 7.2 , 2dkh and 2dgh.

Hello all. So I have a pair of gold rams that have been spawning. The first few clutches of eggs were eaten which is to be expected for new fish parents. I am happy to report that the last two clutches hatched successfully and it seems as if I have two great parents that have learned to raise their fry. The first batch that hatched lasted for a week before they died off. This was my fault because I was not prepared with my live baby bribe shrimp and they would not take frozen baby brine or Hikari first bites. This last batch is doing great however. I have been feeding live baby brine 3x a day and occasionally frozen babh brine which they are now eating at 10 days old. They all look to be very healthy with nice big orange bellies. My question is about moving the fry to a grow out tank. How long should I wait to move them? What is the best way to move the fry. Turkey baster? Siphon? Net? Any help is much appreciated. Here are some pictures.

Forgot to post the tank in my previous post. Enjoy! Lights at previous setting Lights at current setting. Sun is setting at the moment.

Here is my lighting schedule for my 40 breeder. Heavily planted with Co2 injection. I recently increased my co2 from 1.5 bubbles per sec to about 2.5. Also this scedule is what I am currently running as of 2 days ago. I was running higher intensity and longer duration but the growth was to fast and once the plants reach the surface the leaves grow algae. I have also noticed algae increasing in general so I'm hoping the increased co2 and lower light will help a bit. Still trying to balance the tank. Below are my previous settings Below are my current settings

Ph is at 7.0. Diet is varied. Micro wafers, vibra bites, frozen brine shrimp, frozen blood worms, and extreme krill flakes. Although none of my rams seem to like the krill flakes. Strange. The thing is that his coloration is still good. He is eating. Behavior is normal. And to top it off he and his gold ram partner spawned last night. I have been dosing paraclense as per package instructions. Today is day 4 and the markings are still on his head.

Those on his dorsal are blue spangles. They do look like spots in the picture but they aren't.

So I noticed these white spots on the head of my black ram today. Yesterday they were not there. I'm thinking hole in the head. As far as I know metronidazol is the best way to treat this. I have fritz paraclense which is metronidazol and praziquantel. The fish is in a 10 gallon with a female gold ram and I dosed one packet today as soon as a saw it. He is still eating, his behavior is normal and his color is good. Am I doing the right thing? Does this look like hole in the head? Please help. Fish two days ago Fish today

I have some in another breeding tank with different pair of rams. I will split the portion and put some in with the gold ones. Thanks. Unfortunately they are not. I was not prepared with live baby brine. I was feeding hikari first bites frozen baby brine and vinaigar eels but they were not taking to any of it. I have my hatchery set up now. Got a small jar of brine shrimp eggs from my lfs just in case and put in an order from brine shrimp direct which is on the way. I'm confident they will spawn again. And this time I will be ready.

Unfortunately they are not. I was not prepared with live baby brine. I was feeding hikari first bites frozen baby brine and vinaigar eels but they were not taking to any of it. I have my hatchery set up now. Got a small jar of brine shrimp eggs from my lfs just in case and put in an order from brine shrimp direct which is on the way. I'm confident they will spawn again. And this time I will be ready.

Co2 will help any plant in my opinion even slow growers and low light plants and can help with algae if other nutrients are under control. As was stated earlier it is all about balance. I'm stil trying to find that in this tank. Getting there but not there yet.

You could try dosing excel. I have used it with success. I have started with the day one dose and slowly upped it 1 ml per day till I got to 15 ml per day on a 40 gallon tank. Fish showed no signs of stress. Post your water parameters. That will help us to see where the tank is at as far as nutrient levels.

Here is my 40 gallon breeder display tank. I guess you could say it's a Dutch style aquascape is you had to put a name on it. Tank has been up for 4 months. I run injected co2 at about 1.5 bubbles per second. Lighting is a 36" fluval plant 3.0. Substrate is fluval stratum. Filtration is handled by a fluval 307 canistar, filled with sponge, seachem matrix and chemipure green. I also run a airstone and a marineland 300 watt heater to keep things nice and warm. Hardscape consisted of some mopani wood, spider wood, a few river rocks and some dragon stone. Livestock 2 Sunset Gourami (used to get tank cycled) 6 Harlequin Rasabora 15 Neon Tetra 6 Panda Corydora 7 Otocinclus (1 is in quarentine with some sort of bacterial or fungal infection) 1 Bristlenose Pleco 3 Apistogramma agazizzi (1 male 2 female) 4 Young Angelfish 1 German Black Ram (also in quarentine with the otto with same infection) Plants Temple Plants, Amazon Sword, Scalet Temples, Rotala Rotundifolia, Cardinal Plant, Wisteria, Bacopa Caroliniana, Crypt Parva, Golden Creeping Jenny. I started the tank dosing dry ferts using the PPS Pro system and flourish exel. Nutrients got a bit to high and was dealing with some algae so I stopped dosing lowered the light intensity and shortened the photo period to allow the tank to stabilize and the plants to establish a bit longer. The lights have been slowly brought back up to moderately intense with a longer photo period. I still have some algae on the wood hardscape but I look at is as food for the pleco and Otto's. I also kinda like the look of it. I will begin dosing ferts again this week based on my water parameters which I have posted below. Any input, comments, questions, or suggestions are always welcome. I hope you enjoy.

Great tip. Genius actually. I use fluval stratum in most of my tanks and its extremely light. I have tried tons of ways to stop it from flying all over the place and creating a crater when I do water changes. Will definitely be giving this a try.

I I rotate extreme krill flakes, hikari micro wafers frozen brine shrimp and frozen blood worms. I also throw in a few algae wafers and sinking cichlid pellets for my corys and bristle nose every other day while the other fish are eating to make sure they get enough and not just leftovers.

As far as steralizing equipment. You could use a 10:1 solution of hot water to bleach. soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse everything is hot water and then soak in hot water with a double dose of declorinator for another 10 min rinse again amd let everything air dry.

I have used the trio on my main display before I started quarantining. Had no issue with my plants. Also never had any issue with any ammonia showing up so I'm assuming my biological filter was fine.

I also use the aquarium note app. I find it simple to use and the reminders very helpful.