quikv6

I agree with Miranda. In the same respect, those same things (food/poop) will also help/cause your biological filter to grow and catch up. It is a delicate balance, but in a case with significant elevated nitrite (any level can be potentially be significant) and perhaps some elevated ammonia levels as well.....I think its best to minimize the short-term risk by feeding lightly if at all, and have a product like Prime on hand to supposedly detox some of those harmful levels.

If this Pleco is in the same tank as the one with very elevated Nitrite from your other thread.....I would really hold off on feeding until that nitrite is under control. If you do feed....very, very minimally.

I use small USB desk fans on my axolotl tank. It has a mesh lid, so I just let the small fans sit on top and angle at the waters surface. In the summer, I use up to 3 small fans at one time. At other times, only one is needed. I keep the water temp between 60-64 degrees F. Another reasonable good way to regulate the fan is with an Inkbird. There is an Inkbird model that does heating and cooling. You just need a small old style switch fan that will turn on automatically when plugged in if the switch is on a speed. (The USB fans require plug-in AND the press of a power button.) Simply plug the fan into the cooling plug, leave the switch on, and set the Inkbird to activate that plug at a desired time, and turn it off at a desired temp.

I would think they would definitely carry it at local stores, including box stores. It would most likely be the API brand, E.M. Erythromycin.

If you see an active bacterial infection, treat per the box directions.

Levamisole (Expel P) is a good plan. I will say, when I have had cases of wasting that involved spitting food, I have had FAR better results with Flubendazole. It isn't as easy to work with, but was (and usually is) a better alternative for me personally, based on success rate and very fast positive results.

Try soaking the food in garlic guard.

We really need to be able discern ammonia and nitrite levels before throwing the kitchen sink at them.

That, to me, looks like a bacterial infection. Kanaplex is generally my first go-to for bacterial infection, though Maracyn or Maracyn 2 would be an option. If that patch appears fuzzy (which it doesn't to my eyes), then you can use something like Ick-X to treat fungal infections. I really like API Fungus Cure, but I don't believe it's available anymore. Salt could also be good to add regardless. It does not appear to have signs of TB, which can include wasting/thinning, spinal arch, and often odd swimming behavior. Colu is our resident "doc", so I am sure he will chime in. It may also be helpful to post water parameters.

I absolutely appreciate it as well, but offsetting shipping costs and minimizing shipping waste are not the same thing. I am taking the co-op verbage at face value. If it is indeed to offset shipping costs, I'd certainly rather that be fully transparent as opposed to a guise....which I really don't believe it is.

Interesting. I don't engage in that behavior, so my thought process wasn't aligned with that. I appreciate that perspective. Personally, I cannot envision anyone ordering one item daily if there is a shipping charge. It just isn't financially sound, and I have a tough time grasping that. I don't do that on Amazon either, even though shipping is usually covered under the Prime heading. With that said, if a customer is willing to pay for the product and shipping cost...I believe that is/should their prerogative. Ultimately, I believe consumer behavior should shape for-profit business behavior, and not the other way around. I'd rather leave a tip at a restaurant, as opposed to the restaurant factoring in 20% automatically. Often I would leave more than the 20%, which not only acknowledges good service, but encourages it going forward. And, drawing a closer parallel, I don't believe the menu should be limited, provided I pay for the dish ordered.

@mynameisnobody No effort put forth, other than hitting buttons on a gadget. Again, I have zero issues with the increase. Zero. Inflation hurts. I feel it everyday. As a loyal customer, I don't feel the "reduce shipping waste" is completely accurate (for lack of a better term), and if the customer is willing to pay shipping, whether actual or stated...then I just don't see why they should be prohibited from ordering what they need/want. Sometimes it isn't about dollars and cents....and it's about principal. And to me, ordering unnecessary items IS shipping waste. ...said fully respectfully, with minimal effort. And although the effort was minimal, I do believe that the gang at the Coop appreciate a loyal customer's honest, constructive feedback....and the time they took to make it. I am going to look into the RPP stores as an option. Thanks again for that suggestion.

The retail partner program may be an option I will look into, though I don't think I have any in my immediate area. As for shipping, I have no issues with it taking longer. I also have no issues with the raise to $100 for free shipping. And I would also have zero issues with a company charging actual shipping. It has been said a few times here that the $8.99 shipping cost (I actually thought it was $7.99) is less than it may actually cost. We aren't privy to what it actually costs the co-op, and nor do we have a right to be. They chose that number for a reason, and they apply it to everyone for a reason. I am sure there is a benefit for them in operational simplicity in doing so. Furthermore, they may have some smaller, nearby customers that help balance out that cost....similar to everyone paying the restaurant bill equally, even though everyone ordered a variety of dishes at different prices. My only "gripe" is the minimum shipping cost imposed under the heading of "reducing shipping waste." - Again, if I am paying for shipping (regardless of cost, since I don't have a choice in that), then I'd like to be able to order what I need/want. I'd gladly pay actual if I had that option. - Under the "reduce shipping waste", I cannot order any of the new easy flow kits that I wanted, but a single 20 pack of Maracyn is fine. I am just using this as an example, and realize they can't be perfect here, but assigning an arbitrary dollar figure may not be ideal. I see "reducing shipping waste" as having a variety of appropriately sized boxes (and possible services) to best further that goal. - Additionally, if each customer is "encouraged" to order more due to the minimum, then more product will have to move through shipping just to restock inventory. - Reducing shipping waste can also be viewed as the ability to order just what you need and nothing superfluous. That is an option I did not have, even though I'd be paying for shipping. Ordering more than I want/need to, just to meet a threshold....well, to me, that IS shipping waste. In summation, my subjective opinion is just that, and said respectfully. I also believe Cory and the gang welcome honest feedback, as that has been a hallmark of the company, and I am sure that hasn't changed despite all of the other changes.

If I may tag onto this thread, I noticed a very long wait to receive my last order, after they switched carriers. I believe it was 10 or 11 days. I am okay with that, but I have a bit of a parallel frustration, if I may share respectfully: I just went to order one or two of those new easy flow kits. Apparently now, there is a bump in the minimum order to $19.99. I would completely understand this, if I wasn't paying for shipping. But if shipping is on my dime (which it is...and probably always be, now that I noticed another change of "free shipping" being raised to $100), then I respectfully don't understand why I can't just order what I need. If it is under the heading of reducing shipping waste, then an arbitrary value doesn't necessarily correlate to a box size, or empty space within a box. Reducing shipping waste could simply be the shipper having appropriately sized boxes available for a variety of order sizes. But in principal, if I am paying the shipping charge, I am not grasping why I am limited, from a customer perspective. It completely prevented me from ordering a new product to try out. So, in short...it was I trifecta of changes: Much slower shipping (for my location), $100 free shipping bump (quite alot of money), and a bump in a minimum order value, due to "shipping waste." I express my frustration completely respectfully, as I appreciate the Co-op, and will continue to be a customer, albeit less frequently. Additionally, I have not heard any recent livestreams, so it is completely possible that these points were addressed thoroughly within.

Forgive me if this was posted....but what is the GH / KH? Livebearers like guppies generally thrive in harder water.

Ammonia.....You have significant ammonia. I would continue with the dechlorinated water changes....perhaps twice a day. You can use a product like Prime to "detoxify" ammonia for 24-48 hours. As for water change volume...I would consider 50% safe.....even twice a day, to bring that ammonia down. That will treat the symptom, but it would be helpful to find the reason the ammonia spiked in an established tank. Something either harmed the beneficial bacterial, or there could be dead fish still decomposing in the tank.

I'm so glad to hear that! Thank you for the update...great news!

Hey Janice....pull those stickers off and see what the actual original expiration date was. I have read on another forum that they put those stickers over the actual expiration date to allow the continued sale of "expired" food at full price. As for using it....I still would, but that is just my opinion.

Hey @Becky S. Any update on the big O?

Hey Becky, Great advice here for sure. Definitely looks like Hole-in-the-head, which is traditionally treated with very clean water and MetroPlex, preferably in the food. There is a theory that HITH becomes prevalent when blackwater fish that are from uber-clean environments in nature with little to no nitrates and very low hardness, are then exposed to hard water and a higher-nitrate aquarium environment. I think clean water is a great start here. Oscars ARE MESSY. As for the eating....don't stress too hard....but I have never ever seen an Oscar pass up a yummy earthworm / red wiggler. My adult Oscar goes nuts for em....even when he's moody....which is VERY often. He will eat sooner or later....but try an earthworm!

@Fishinsinsation That may certainly be the issue. The parasite is still alive in the tank after it falls off the fish. The lower the temp, the slower the life cycle and phases. You can only eradicate ick in one of it's phases. (I believe it is after they multiply, hatch, and are free-swimming looking for a host) I believe the directions are to treat for at least 3 days after there are zero visible signs of ick on a fish. Personally, I do a full week AFTER the last visible sign. But I also do this at 81 degrees, which speeds up the life cycle. If you are at 75, I would do longer than a week.

How long did you continue Ick-X for AFTER last visible white spot observed?

I actually have 8 co-op heaters. All except the one 50w were spot on with the Inkbird. I had zero issues with it being inaccurate....but the inaccuracy did change for the worse as the months went by. It did not stop me from ordering 2 more co-op heaters. I hate the logo on them, but the new generations look to be green, and it blends in much better. As for the Inkbird....again....it's not the way I prefer to do things. I don't shut my appliances by unplugging them when they are on. I hit the "off" button. I realize heaters can be slightly different, as they are also thermostat-dependant, but it's just the way I like to do things.

I respectfully don't like using the Inkbird that way. I much prefer to use it as a failsafe rather than a controller. While I have never heard about an Inkbird failing, I'd much prefer to have three layers of protection against failure (Heater #1 / Heater #2 / Inkbird) vs. One (Inkbird). It also lets me ensure the accuracy of the heaters' adjustment. I have had one heater (a first gen Co-op 50w) that was 3.5 degrees off out of the box. Regardless, I used it, and after a few months it started to become inaccurate by 5-6 degrees. If I had just maxed out the heater and let the Inkbird do the work I doubt I would've caught this discrepancy. Different strokes for different folks. That is one thing that is great about this hobby.

I use an Inkbird as a failsafe, and let 2 Co-op heaters do their job. I have one set for 77 and the other set for 75 (in case the 77 heater fails to turn on). The 75 heater has almost never turned on, except the occasional colder water change. It is now flashing "EL", even though it was barely ever on. I must say, that in itself is a bit frustrating.