cornelius85

Although pandas prefers cooler water, temperature should not be an issue. I constantly keep my pandas at 77 . During summer the temps goes up to 80. They never had any problems. I bred them, raised more than 500 fries, never lost a single one. Maybe the cories you get were not healty from the start. May be there is a problem whit the place you got them.

I just learned, that there will be a 7 hour planned power outage in my area in two days. Never been in this situtaion. I would appreciate any tips to get this through without a problem.

You are saying that you are not aiming for every one of them to survive so you do not need to bother with a smaller tank just hatch them out and release them. This way all some of them might not survive , but it is not because of predation, they might not be able to compete for food with bigger fish. The Reason I keep them in breeder box for a month, is for them to get to food easier without any competition, and grow out quicker. After a month they dont have any problems with getting food.

Sorry appearently did not read your message thoroughly. You do not need to worry about bigger ones eating the smaller ones. I grow them out in a 55g. At any given time there are fish ranging from 1 month old to 5 months old in that tank. If you are short on space you can even leave them with the parents.

If you are going to actively breed them. It is best to use a spawning mop. That is what I do. I pull out eggs every day. Hatch them seperately in a breeder box and grow them seperately from the parents.

I had this problem with my pandas. I was keeping them on a sharp-ish substrate. Then I put them in an aquarium with fine sand. Their barbels grow back but it took them like four months to be fully grown.

I believe it is a pot, cut in half, small hole in the bottom, and the big opening against the glass.

If someone were to say to me, that I am confusing my fish, and I dont know which species is wich. I would say to them, that I am breeding these fish for profit succesfully and unlike them I actually keep them and experience their behaviour. Unlike someone who reads something from somewhere, and relays that info instead of their experience.

I think your info on the baenschi is wrong, Male is not looking for a more suitable female, because the already spawned twice. They are, as you called harem breeders. As for my cockatoo, They are acting like your description of baenschi. There were two females in the tank but both male and the female attacked third female viciously way before they spawn, so I had to seperate her. My conclusion is these are living things, so there is no black and white wtih their behavior. Once in a while there will be ones that behaves differently than the general population.

Baenschi does not form any bond with the male, mine will kill the male if I leave him in the tank after the fry becomes free swimming. A good friend of mine who only kept apistos for the last 15 years is keeping his baenschi as a harem in a 300 liters tank. My cacatuoides pair which I mentioned in my first post. I know this is unusual, but this was what I meant when I said "it really depends on the pair".

Would you kindly point out which species of apistos form tight m/f bonds. I would love to know, because I have several different apisto species in my care and did not observe such behavior from the ones I own. Would love to keep that fish aswell. Would be a nice experience Currently I have, 1 Pairs of below speceis *Apistogramma atahualpa *Apistogramma baenschi *Apistogramma hongsloi *Apistogramma panduro *Apistogramma borelli *Apistogramma agassizi And two pairs of Apistogramma cacatuoides. The female I mentinoned does not drive away the male passively. He is acvtivle taking care of the fry. He is doing things like taking the wanderer babies in his mouth and spitting right beside the female. I know their behavior well enough to differentiate between agression, and fry care.

It really depends on the pair, generrally females do not let the males near the eggs or fry. But sometimes they do, and when they do it is a sight to behold. It is very beatifull to watch both of them taking care of the fry as a team. One of my current pair is like that, And their fry grows quicker and survival rate is higher that other pair I have, which I have to remove the male after eggs got laid.

I have fry from; Apistogramma Cacatuoides Panda Cory Lamchop rasbora. And working on breeding; Apistogramma Baenschi (Inka) Black Venezuela Cory

Today, I noticed a reddish clump in my daphnia culture container. When I inspected closely, noticed this was a clump of worms. Any idea what kind of worm these are, are they harmful?

I give out several to the friends, and I also have a deal with my lfs. I have an open account there, I take my extra fish there when ever I have any, and I shop from there whenever I need something. Every two months we close the account. Whoever oves money pays the other . It's a sweet deal for me, never stress over fish population.

I went to vinegar eel route, babies are growing fast. 😄

Dean also said; "Fish food got so good in recent years, I am relying less on live/frozen food". Do not get me wrong I do not deny bbs has advantage over dry food, I personally hatch daily. But for a prolific species like guppies I do not think it would make that much difference, as long as you are using high quality dry food. At least that is what what I observed with endlers.

Congratulations on the new tank. At that ph level you probably will never see nitrite spike. At that ph level all of the amonia is converted to amonium. And as far as I know plants use amonium directly (I might be wrong). The problem is when you do a water change your ph will rise instantly, And amonium will turn into amonia. That is dangerous.

Thank you, but I am from Turkey, so CoOp easy fry is not an option for me. And Hikari and their distributors parted ways, so it is not available for the time being. As really fine dry food my only option is sera micron right now. I do not want to feed them with just one food. It would have been nice if they took the brine shrimp as I am hatching everyday for my apisto fry. Someone suggested micro worms but I don't want to deal with smelly cultures.

I hope below photos somewhat helps you. This is the first day of the eggs, it is not possible to undestand if they are viable at this stage they all look the same(to me) This is the 3rd day of the eggs you can see the embriyos, if it is full white and you can't see what's inside it means it is not viable And this one is right before they hatch. My panda cory eggs takes roughly 4 to 5 days to hatch

Hello; My panda corys are spawning like crazy for the last week . Every morning I wake up to 10-15 eggs stuck to the front glass. Currently around 15-20 fry hatched and more on the way. My question is regarding to feeding theese. I have sera micron as dry food. And it seems like they are taking it. But I also want to supplement their feeding with something else. Tried baby brine shrimp. But I suspect they are not taking it. Any suggestions?

Apart from that growth on his tail, his dorsal fin and tail does not look healthy either.

The problem is I can't treat this without knowing what it is. Some people I showed this told it is fin rot, and some people like you told me it is not.

Thanks I'll try. The troubling part is, I don't know what caused this, everything seems to be in order. He is not neglected.

From the day I noticed it( been a month) the affected area stayed the same, but, two days ago I noticed that small hole. And it is not just on one side, it is the same on the other side of the fish.