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  1. I have a Platy fish that was at the bottom of the tank in a vertical position for a long time. I'm assuming that it got swim bladder disease. I'm planning on moving it to a quarantine tank and give it peas. My question is whether I should add salt or methylene blue into the tank? Also, how long does it take to recover? (Point of note: It is upright at the bottom of the tank now, but it doesn't look good. Something is still wrong with it).
  2. I woke up today to find two Wagtail Platy Fry in my tank. Although there are plants in the tank to hide, I'm still worried that either my Betta or my Coridoras might eat them. Being that there are only two I'm assuming that others were born and eaten. I'm thinking of moving them into a breeder tank and add some moss. My question is the following: The mother is still large. Does it take several days to give birth? Should I add her with them? Being that I have only two I'm scared she'll eat them, but on the other hand if she still has to give birth I'm worried that the other fish (or she) will eat the other fry. Advice?
  3. MaxM

    Ich and Heaters

    Thanks for the replies. I did not notice them until now. In the end I treated it without a heater for a day or two until I could provide a better situation. I treated it for close to a week, but the spot was still there. I have a feeling that it is somehow just a discoloration on the head that is not ich or another issue. Thanks.
  4. MaxM

    Ich and Heaters

    I have a Betta fish that I think has Ich. I only have a 1 gallon tank I can use right now (until next week) to use as a quarantine tank. They recommend heating the water to 28-30 Celsius. The smallest heater I have is a 50W heater. That is clearly overkill. The question is whether I can use it or is it dangerous to use too strong a heater? I have Ich medication in that quarantine tank. Is it better to hold off for Sunday/Monday to add a heater?
  5. @Philip I have two DIY vacuums and one bought (which I hate). I'm trying to find the right balance in a DIY where the tube is and suction cup are small enough to draw smaller amounts, but with the same drawing strength as a larger one. Haven't found that balance yet. 😞 @Will Billy I've done that, but the problem is that as I crimp the flow the suction weakens and it's harder to pull up the waste, so it's kind of a catch 22. Thank you both for your replies.
  6. Finding it hard to clean a nano tank with gravel vacuum. I have to take all the decorations out first and then by the time I'm finished vacuuming more than half the water is gone. Any advice?
  7. From where do you know this? I only saw sites that state not to use salt with Plecos.
  8. @HardeepTheLondoner My present tank is about 25 gallons. I realize that a common pleco needs much bigger. However, my understanding is that after the first year they tend to grow at a slower rate. I'm hoping to buy a larger tank in a couple of months.
  9. @Colu The problem I'm facing is that I have a common pleco in that tank. If I add salt to the tank it may hurt the pleco. My QT is now operating as a tank for my wife. If I go out and buy a QT tank, I can only afford a small one. I'm worried that adding three large fish to a small tank that hasn't been cycled may spike and kill the fish. Any advice?
  10. @ColuUsually around 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Rarely have problems with Nitrites. Ammonia sometimes starts to build, but I never let it get to a dangerous level. I have a tester in the tank (see pic above) that changes colors when Ammonia starts to build. As soon as it changes color from yellow I change the water. I do a 25-50% water change ever week (depending what my water parameters are at the time). I'm pretty much on top of the water parameters, so I don't believe that is a factor. Perhaps that is the beginning of "pinecone". The problem is that all the pictures on line are serious cases, so it's are to tell what early signs look like.
  11. Hi All - I'm concerned about my fish. I'm pretty new in the hobby and am not sure what healthy fish are supposed to look like when they mature. Many of my fish seem to look blotted to me, especially my female swordtails and my gourami. I took my swordtails out for two weeks to medicate them in a QT, but there was very little difference in appearance afterwards. The only symptom is that they look pregnant, but they have looked that way for months. They are not lethargic, nor show pine cone scales, and their feces seem normal color and normal size. They have normal appetite as well. One person I spoke to about this felt that they probably have dead babies inside and will eventually die as a result. The problem is that I bought a Opaline Gourami about two months ago and she now seems possibly bloated as well, albeit, less than the others. My next thought then was that maybe I'm overfeeding them and they are suffering from blotted stomachs. However, part of my treatment of the swordtails had that in mind and I starved them 3 days and then feed them peas for a while. Furthermore, all three fish seem to poop normally. Regardless, I cut back on feeding them to only twice a day instead of three times. The question I have is whether there is a real problem or are they perfectly normal and I'm making something out of nothing? Here are some pics. Sorry if they are not clear enough. P.S. - I also don't know if my danios look normal.
  12. @Mitch Norton Thanks. I did see that, but it does not mention about which fish should not be medicated with salt.
  13. Hi All, I have a young cory fish that seems to be suffering from Swim Bladder. I looked up on line what to do for swim bladder and one of the things it says to do is treat with salt. However, I do know that there are some species of fish that don't take well to salt. There seems to be conflicting information about whether corys can or cannot tolerate salt treatments. Anybody have experience with this issue?
  14. @Kirsten I have a high tank and a turkey baster will need to be submerged into the tank. Do you know if it will still work under such conditions?
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