PT Apisto

If your pH is fairly neutral, dwarf Cichlids, specifically an Apistogramma cacatuoides (Cockatoo Cichlid) pair or harem may be a nice choice—IF the size of the tank isn’t so large to overly dwarf them. Full-size mature males are about 3 inches max and females probably 2-2.25 inches. With enough places to hide, one male and a couple-or-three females will readily utilize a 40 gallon tank—and thoroughly appreciate the footprint of a 75 gallon tank. Good tank mates. They will look for you in curiosity—if the male isn’t flirting with the females.

Greetings, With the exception of my rimless tanks, all my aquariums have their backs painted. Black is my preference, but I’ve done sky blue, forest green, and even orange (for my reef tank). Between brush coating and spraying, spray painting is totally the fastest and most efficient way. It maybe takes 45 minutes total for prepping, actual spraying, and waiting in-between coats (honestly waiting around for paint to dry takes the most time; 20-30 minutes or so). When completed, as long as you’re careful moving your tank after it’s dry to touch, it should be pretty durable for a long time. I’ve found that planning ahead of time for spray painting is the key. Doing it outside away from anything you shouldn’t get overspray on (like your neighbor’s car, or your own white picket fence), when it’s above 50 degrees F, and also in an area protected from rain, you can do it without much fuss or mess. The prep time if done properly (tape off the sides and open top with newspaper and painters tape) will take no more than 10-15 minutes. Enjoy the experience!

Greetings—I’ve raised many Apistogramma cacatuoides using Walstad’s method. They seem more inclined only to ‘sort through’ the gravel surface looking for bits to eat rather than actually ever dig. By now you may be testing out your ideas—may it go well for you!

G Greetings! Ive been using Walstad method tanks (planted tanks with soil substrate) for about seven years now, mostly on dwarf Cichlids, livebearers, and Characins (Tetras). No digging issues with these types compared to EBA’s as it sounds. Still, I have attempted to modify the Walstad setup in several different tanks that might work for digging fish (except carp/goldfish since they tear up and eat most plants). Just for reference, you may know the typical Walstad method suggests the entire tank bottom be layered with 1” of unfertilized soil covered with no more than 1” of gravel—or a total of no more than 2”. If the gravel or soil layer is made any deeper, the soil could become severely anaerobic, or have the tendency to produce hydrogen sulfide (H2S), which in either case will kill any plants. A couple of things to factor in is the size of your gravel or top substrate. Ideally, you would use 2-4 mm gravel (grit). If you’re using sand, the top layer substrate should be less than an inch, more like 0.5” since gas exchange is slower. What I’ve done in some of my tanks is placed “islands” of soil covered by gravel substrate and placed my plants in these locations. My modified approach has mostly been for aesthetic reasons (so I don’t see a layer in rimless tanks) but when I’ve used large stones in the hard scape it prevents H2S from forming. The other approach has been to add a mesh screen over the soil layer (cut areas or strips where you want to place plants, and then place gravel on top of it. If you’re trying to maximize the bio load you could start by creating a plenum and then adding soil and gravel. I’ve had good success with all three modified methods growing mostly Amazon swords, crypts, and Hygrophila. It may be worth a try with your EBA’s. Enjoy!