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martinmin

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Everything posted by martinmin

  1. My plants start to get black algae, the leaves turns black, like drying, and some of them get black thread algae. If I totally turns off the light for 1 week, can it fix this algae issue? My tank is 75gallon, has fishes, snails and shrimp. Please see the attached. I added 50 amana shrimps, but it helps little.
  2. I guess my problem was that one time I trimmed plants too much so algae started to grow and take over. I agree that lighting shouldn't be reduced.
  3. Based on description it seems hydrogen peroxide is effective, so sad to hear it is not working. I plan to use it and easy carbon as well. Most suggestions are lower lighting. But you suggested increase lighting. Is this a typo? Only reducing lighting helps? I will try too. Halving it is a lot though
  4. Just searched and seems to be able to kill long thread algae. But how to measure 3% solution? I usually guess or use eye-measurement. I am afraid it may kill my fishes. I have easy-carbon, will use this too but it may not be effective to treat this algae.
  5. My tank has an algae boom on plants' leaves and stems, green hair-like or thread like algae. It's very hard to get rid of from plants' stem or leaves. I can easily pull plants off from the soil when trying to removing thread algae. Does green killing machine kill this type of algae? What about easy-carbon? Amano shrimps are too small for this algae, I think. Just one single thread of algae is very long. How many shrimps can eat this single thread algae? Otocinclus catfish o is not famous for eating this algae either. Manual removal is hard, and they come back quickly. Please advice any solutions that may eliminate it.
  6. In that case, this little tank has a filter. Are these pale, gray stuff algae or not?
  7. What do you mean? It is not new tank. What is Wallstead?
  8. I trimmed the plants in the foreground, but it didn't regrow. Instead, it becomes so ugly. Gray, hairy. Please see the pictures. The plants almost died, right?
  9. I didn't test them, but they should be 0, since I used to have fishes in it and they live well, although I had taken them all out. So adding fertilizers is a common practice into fish tanks? I thought the ecosystem can sustain themselves without usinging additional fertilization.
  10. I just added AC all in one fertilizer and then tested. Nitrate about 5-10, pH about 68-70. Seems perfect? I also added 3 more hours of lighting, from 8 to 11 hours. See how it helps.
  11. Since it is new tank, I want to avoid adding fertilizers and see whether they can do well. I will add if I have to.
  12. My big tank is 75 gallons, and almost 4 months now. As of today, I tested: TDS: 250 GH: 200 (AC test strip) KH: 80 (AC test strip) Those values look good to me and now I am doing water change about every 2-3 weeks. The problem is that my plants don't grow well. Please see the pictures. They don't grow high, and the leaves look very old, not new. The substrate is new. Should I start to add liquid fertilizers into it? My friend has a similar tank and the plants in that tank grow really well. They look new, and grow tall, much more vibrant than my tank.
  13. I usually get tap water into a barrel and let it stay a few days. When water is initially poured into the barrel, nitrite is zero; then I add a few drops of Prime dechololation liquid into it, and let it stay a few days, and test it again, now the nitrite level is quite high. In both cases, I used Aquarium Co-Op test strips to test that. Is that normal? Why does the water suddenly get nitrite in a few days? I heard that it is better to avoid using fresh tap water, but waiting for a few days is much better. Is this normal? The reason I ask this is that fishes die in my little tank gradually after I did a water change, and then I tested the water which has stayed in the barrel for a few days.
  14. That seems good, but seem the process is complicated. I will study it in more detail. Hope it doesn't hurt fishes either. I mean assuming it has both plants and fishes, without taking them out.
  15. I am seeing long hair like algae on the plants, making them hard to remove manually. There are lots of small snails. I searched and found that some copper based chemicals can kill both. For example, API Liquid Super Ick Cure Seachem Cupramine Mardel CopperSafe Any suggestions on these products? Or anything else that are safe for both fish and plants?
  16. It's new tank. All the plants start with new and grows well in the first month. But now I noticed there are about 3 plants whose roots melted and the stems become black, dying, while other plants of the same type seem to grow well. What cause these and how to avoid root melt?
  17. I moved otocinclus to a big tank, which has more thin algae on the glass, and looks like they are all eating, so probably it's because of no food in the small tank. And water parameters are also cause, because one time the same day I bought otocinclus, and change water for the tank, and the next day, they all died in that tank. I didn't test water for the existing water and the water in that tank. Probably that's true: "My conclusion is that there wasn't enough algee long term to keep the Otos happy."
  18. Yes. I did. That is not a problem. Then what fish do you recommend for small tanks? Just plants are not good.
  19. Hi, I have neon tetras and octcinclus in my little fish tank, about 4 and 8 gallons. They often die a few days, although plants grow well. Parameters should be ok, because plants like them. What are typical reasons for Neon Tetras and Octcinclus die in small planted fish tanks?
  20. How "high" are your 2 Hs? Shrimp science is a good resource to learn!
  21. For cherry shrimp, did you test GH and KH in your tank?
  22. Oh, that is good to know. I thought it's best to keep GH=2×kh, so I have been raising both GH and kh after water change by adding chemical solutions. So probably just raising GH after each water change?
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