awong918

It's only a betta (and ramshorn snails) in a 5-gallon. My nitrates are pretty much always 0. 20 drops of Easy Green liquid fert hardly raises the nitrates from 0, and I'm worried about overdosing too much of the other ingredients and possibly harming my betta (or is that not a worry?). My Amazon Swords have holes on the leaves. At first, I thought it was the snails, but some of the circles look too uniform to be left by snails. My Java Ferns have small black dots on them. Even the newer leaves. Do I have too many plants to be dosing just 10-20 drops (instruction recommends 10 weekly for a 5 gallon)?

Just wanted to say I got the betta version, and my betta absolutely loves it! He's sick and has been spitting out Fluval Bug Bites (which he used to love) and Northfin, but to my surprise he was very willing to eat this food. Looking at the ingredients list, the formula seems improved compared to the one listed on the website. I'm so happy to have found a pellet my fish won't spit out. If only I had an Aquarium Co-op store near me so I wouldn't have to pay $8 shipping every 3 months when I "renew" my fish's food... Oh well...

Alright, I'll do that. Could the presence of Ich-X that's still in the tank cause any issues with Prazipro? I can maybe do a 40-50% water change if I do it slowly and carefully. And thank you so much for your time

He's always breathed a little heavy I think, I haven't seen enough bettas to tell if this is considered heavy though. Here's a video: https://streamable.com/xi840e He doesn't hang near the surface much, mostly stays at the bottom. He's been very lethargic compared to a month ago. He stays at the bottom a lot, hiding underneath his catappa leaf or his coconut cave hideout. He now spits out pellets (even soaked) and will only take live scuds or freeze-dried bloodworms. I spoke too soon when I said Ich-x didn't seem to help though. He's hiding a lot less today, but his fins are still clamped most of the time, arguably more so than previously. And he's still flashing on objects. Each day I observe him for 30min to an hour, and in that time he would flash on decorations once or twice, but every time he does it, it would be a rapid succession of 2-5 flashes. He sometimes does it even "out of the blue" when there's no surface to rub on. I noticed today he has a dark spot on his head. Not sure if it's a bruise from hitting something while flashing, or if it's an infection.

Hey, thanks for commenting. The parameter are as follows: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate below 5ppm, pH 7.5-7.6, gH 130ppm, kH 40-50 ppm Here are some pictures I took of him. If I look closely, I can make out some gold spots on his gills, though I'm not sure if it's actually velvet or his natural coloration or something else.

Can I dose both at the same time? I thought my betta had velvet. He has some gold spots on his gill plate. But after 1 day of dosing Ich-X (which I heard is really effective for velvet), he has not seen any improvement. He is still flashing on decorations. Now I'm thinking he has flukes. Can I medicate the tank with Prazipro even though there's likely some Ich-X in the tank still? If not, how long until the Ich-X breaks down? I can do at most a 30% water change because my tap water has very different pH from my tank's, so any more than that I'm afraid will shock my fish.

I want to pick out a food for my betta, but I can't decide which. It seems intuitive to pick the betta formula, but it seems to have more fillers & binders than the nano pellets. Betta: Krill Meal, Shrimp Meal, Squid Meal, Pea Protein, Rice Flour, Rice Bran, Wheat Starch, Non-GM Soy Flour, Algae Meal-Dried (Spirulina), Grain Distillers Dried Yeast, Non-GM Soy Lecithin, Paprika, Dicalcium Phosphate, Salt, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, dl-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Supplement), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Riboflavin-5-Phosphate, Niacin, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex (source of Vitamin K Activity), Folic Acid, Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Inositol, Xanthophyll, Manganese Proteinate, Zinc Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Calcium Iodate, Iron Proteinate, Cobalt Proteinate, Calcium Carbonate, Sodium Selenite, L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate (source of Vitamin C), Choline Chloride, Beta Carotene Nano: Krill Meal, Fish Meal, Squid Meal, Wheat Flour, Fish Protein Concentrate, Wheat Gluten, Gran Distillers Dried Yeast, Fish Oil, Monocalcium Phosphate, Soy Lecithin, Wheat Germ Meal, Guar Gum (mucilage), Choline Chloride, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, dl-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Supplement), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Riboflavin-5-Phosphate, Niacin, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex (source of Vitamin K Activity), Folic Acid, Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Manganese Proteinate, Zinc Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Calcium Iodate, Iron Proteinate, Cobalt Proteinate, Calcium Carbonate, Sodium Selenite, L-Ascorbyl-2- Polyphospate (source of Vitamin C) Astaxanthin. Nano has more protein (52% vs 38%) more fat (12% vs 5%) though I'm not sure if this is desirable less fiber (2% vs 6%)

I added a few Ramshorn snails to my tank. It took a while before I realized that if they reproduced, my betta would likely eat any(every) baby snail. Can the snail shell hurt the betta's teeth during ingestion? I assume not because they're small and the pellets I feed him are probably harder, but I'm still worried.

I ordered some scuds to culture as live food. Unfortunately, they also came with planaria, hydra, (possibly) leeches, and likely other various organisms.I'm not too worried about the planaria and hydra (I don't keep shrimp), but how do I make sure there aren't actual harmful things like fish leeches, tapeworms, or harmful parasites?

My betta seems to already be cured of flukes as I have not seen him flashing today. I heard it's best to do a 2nd or even 3rd round of treatment to make sure there aren't any flukes lingering still. How would I proceed to do that? I originally thought I should do many water changes after the 1st round of treatment to make sure there's no medication left, so that I don't risk overdosing during the 2nd round (since there may still some medication left from 1st round). But then I realized that doing this would dilute the medication. If there are still lingering flukes, wouldn't there be the risk of the flukes being able to develop immunity towards the (diluted) medication?

I didn't notice that the bottle's cap (120mL) wasn't fully closed, and I left it that way for a week. Could anything essential have evaporated significantly? Should I just get another bottle?