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NJ_FishDad

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Everything posted by NJ_FishDad

  1. Just to close the loop on this one, here is where I’m going with my new tank. Currently cycling.
  2. We are on town water, which on its own is fairly hard and higher ph. I forget my exact parameters as I haven’t used the full API tests in a while and have just been using the AQCoop test strips to keep things monitored. I use basic Tetra water de-chlorinator for all water changes. Temp at ~78F. Feed the fish a combo of Xtreme nano pellets, NICE pellets, krill flakes, and some AQCoop freeze dried brine shrimp or tubifex worms. Throw in some algae wafers once in a while or some Repashy. The Val and dwarf sag grows like gangbusters with the easy green though i did boost the plants early on with root tabs. The one little anubias nano seems to be doing well though I was only intending on leaving it and that planter in here temporarily until I moved it to another tank. Every other plant I’ve tried ends up dying and dissolving so, debating on what to potentially try next. My first pair of mystery snails had shell issues and died early so I assumed I needed additional calcium. I’ve been dosing at each water change with some liquid calcium supplement and some shrimp minerals sine then. Throw a wonder shell in once in a while. Shrimp and the newer nerite snails been doing great ever since. I honestly only change water like once a month.
  3. It is a planted tank though I still have some fake plants too. I actually just did a recent cull of the val and dwarf sag because it had completely overgrown the foreground of the tank. I’m trying to move it towards all real plants (but also trying to avoid my kid getting mad at me for removing her hand-picked fake plants).
  4. Thanks for the suggestion. A gourami “center-piece” fish could be a good option. I had been thinking along those lines but wasn’t sure if the various species would be a good fit. I had thought of selling them but the time involved in posting, meeting up, preparing/bagging, etc. is just too much right now. Work and kids has me too busy for much else beyond just caring for this and the other two tanks we have. Plus, since the source shrimp were a mix of red and blue, we have a lot of cross breads that are clear, brown, etc. and so not as desirable to sell and it’s hard enough catching them but to then try to ONLY catch the nice red or blue ones is a bit much for us right now. I actually threw a bunch in our other tank which houses a solo, female betta, and she doesn’t show much interest in hunting them. Though, the population doesn’t seem to be exploding in that 10 gallon so perhaps she is keeping the little ones in check.
  5. I posted to a local group for free. Lot’s of people expressed interest but only one person followed through and came by to take a bunch. I was shocked how fast they re-populated after.
  6. Thanks for the input. I guess I am concerned about the bio-load but then, removing that concern, my other thought is if they are outcompeting the other “grazers”, the amano shrimp, SAE’s, snails? I try to supplement the SAE diet with algae wafers and some repashy but it seems like the shrimp swarm and consume it before anyone else gets a chance. There’s just soooo many of them and they seem to be multiplying out of control. I originally got the two SAE’s to get BB algae under control and they certainly did, to the extent now I’m worried there isn’t enough for them to eat.
  7. Hi all. I have a 38 gallon community tank with harlequin rasboras, silver tip tetras, 2 SAEs, 4 amano shrimp, a couple of nerite snails and a now exploding population of neo shrimp. Is there any kind of compatible fish, preferably a species where just one will be ok, that would at least put “pressure” on the neo shrimp population? I don’t necessarily want to obliterate them but something that might eat some of the frye and smaller shrimp, keeping the population a bit under control? But then also something compatible with the existing community of fish? Any suggestions appreciated and thank you!
  8. Finally got around to finishing this. Was trying to keep it simple and cheap but I couldn’t help but trying to make it look a little nicer than planned. Now I just need to figure out what’s going to go into this tank.
  9. Yep, that’s where my 10G quarantine tank will go!
  10. Hello. I decided to try building the “cheap and easy” aquarium stand from the KGTropicals YouTube channel. This one is for a new, 20 gallon long that I’m going to set up. It is in-fact pretty cheap and easy to do. I used 2x4s and I’m going to use some reclaimed pallet wood to finish off the bottom shelf. I did spend some extra time sanding all the boards so that it looks a bit more finished and so that it will take stain better. This was also my first try “test” as I plan to eventually build a new stand for my 38 gallon. For that one, I will be a little more exact with my placement of the screws and might even use a pocket jig to hid the screw holes. Either way, there is the option to apply some trim and/or sidewalls to make it look more finished. Anyway, happy with how it came out. Super sturdy and confident it can hold a lot of weight. Cheers.
  11. Yeah, definitely some pictures of dead fish in some of the news stories out there. Came here just to see if anyone else saw this in the news.
  12. Thanks again for the insight. Because of a delay in getting the full trio of AC recommended meds, I only dosed with the Marycyn using the recommended dosage off the box and then completed a 25% water change on day 6. I now have the other two on hand but I'm going to just monitor them a bit to see if there is any reason to do the ick or parasite meds. Fins on affected fish look like they're better and improving.
  13. Thanks for the response DiscusLover. I have got my hospital tank spun up and ready for use now. So, now I'm just thinking out loud...should I just dose the whole display tank? Do I isolate JUST the rasboras showing symptoms into the hospital tank? Do I bring over all the rasboras to the hospital tank? Or should I try to get all the tetras over too? My understanding is the snails don't tend to harbor disease. That just leaves the pleco. Should she get dosed or just leave her be if she's not showing symptoms? Funny enough since these are silver tip tetras, I can't really tell if any of them are starting to show the same white fin symptom as the rasboras. All the current fish are otherwise eating and acting normally. Thanks again to anyone who takes the time to read this.
  14. Hello. I recently added some additional harlequin rasboras and silver tip tetras to our existing community tank which already had 4 of each. The new fish brought each school up to 7 total. I lost one rasbora a day after intro to what appeared to be pop-eye. A second got cloudy skin and lethargic about a week later and died about 1 day after showing symptoms. The 5 remaining rasboras and 7 silver tips all are acting healthy but two rasboras have fins that are turning white. Photo attached. We're currently treating (2 days in) with the "natural" anti-fungal, anti-bacterial solution. I have ordered the full suite of 3 medications recommended here on AC which will arrive today or tomorrow. So my questions are: What is this? Should I wait for the natural solution to work? Or should I dose with the three recommended medications ASAP to prevent further issues? The tank is fairly new, started 7/23/22. Tank is 38 gallons, no live plants (yet). Tank also contains 2 mystery snails and a single, small pleco. Lesson-learned here as I'm currently setting up a quarantine tank setup for all future additions but I don't want to lose our existing schools. I set this tank up as a project to share with my 5 yo so hoping we don't have a big die off. I've been doing regular water changes and the original school of 4 + 4 rasboras and tetras were really thriving before the new introductions on 9/3/22. Filter is hang on back which I've modified per the guidance on here re: swapping the disposable media with sponge filter material. I'm using the aquarium coop test strips so I'm interpreting my numbers from it as: Nitrate: 0 Nitrite: 0 Hardness GH: 300 Buffer KH: 120 pH: 7.2 Chlorine = 0 And another brand ammonia test strip is showing: 0 Water temp is 76F. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
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